The how it happened is kind of a long story. Needless to say it involved driving someone, around as a favor, and one road that was so bad that I should have just stopped the car and made him walk.

(This also destroyed the rear shocks. I have the shocks already nice pair of Bilsteins I bought the fronts too)

It looks like I can find a factory grade one for around 400 dollars.
Used ones out of 84s for around 120.

Will the 84s fit my 89? I heard the 84s had a much stiffer leaf spring than the 88 and ups.

Will the Z51 spring bolt in the non Z51?

Would you buy a used spring and put it on your car?

I usually have a policy of when it comes to stuff like shocks to replace all of them at once. Would you do both springs at once or just the broken one?


Are there any aftermarket ones that are superior to the factory grade?
So far I've only found aftermarket springs through mid america as part of a 1300 dollar kit and it has a "temporary shortage" listed. (every time I've ever eyeballed that kit over the last year it has said "temporary shortage as well).


What sort of spring rates should I be looking at for a mostly street spirited street driver (on curvy mountain and country roads) and occasional future autocross/track use?

 

If my monospring would break, I'd buy a new one. If money is an issue, do what you got to do.

I looked at my parts catalog, and the 84-87 share parts. Then there is another chapter for 88-91, and 92-96. Ensure you buy the correct part for your application.

We had a guy in here once that used duct tape to hold it together...not very smart. Don't do that.

 

Duct tape that's scary. Someone took the saying "You can fix a chevy with duct tape and spit" a little too far.

I'm leaning on a new one. Would you do the front too? I had the car checked out this morning to see if they caught anything I missed and they said the front looks great and the only damage seemed to be in the rear leaf.

 

You can use a rear from any year BUT for your '89 I'd suggest you stay with an NYU or NYR to more closely duplicate the ride that you had. Your broken should display a 3 letter code and you could shop that code for replacement. I've an '84 base rear spring coded BMF that I believe came from one of the suspension vendors many years ago. I'd say it's never been mounted.

I don't know that there's any particular reason to avoid a used that displays no delamination or problems. I would want one that displays no physical deficiencies.

My BMF would fit your last question regarding usage for the "twisties" etc. It's not a Z51 but it's an '84 and the base in '84 was stout.

I have likely an NYU/NYR that's removed from a 16K car. Where are you located?

 

North Carolina.
When I get the chance I'll get the back end air born enough again to get a look at the code on the spring.

 

Too bad you're so far away. I have the original spring from my 89 just sitting in storage. If you were close enough to pick it up I'd let you have it. Maybe you can find a Vette owner in your area who just wants to help a fellow Vette owner out.

 

Check out VBP - they are forum vendors here. The tech there should be able to answer all your questions.
I considered going used, but it's not worth the risk imo.

 

Thanks for the link Eakster and everyone for the help.

Spring is ordered. should be here soon.
can't wait to get my silver bullet back on the road

 

Now is a good time to think coil overs, as you need shocks and spring.

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1972

Then you can set your ride height exactly where you want it to be.

 

I would try to retain the original ride by getting the correct spring for my year.

 

I got a VBP front leaf spring for my 87 and installed it myself. I did it with floor jacks and jack stands, I called them and told them I had a 1987 z52 and they knew exactly what years the springs interchange and there are videos and tutorials online, I'm not sure how much more difficult the rear would be but I'd definitely recommend their springs. My previous Vette had VBP springs on front and back.

 

The spring should be here , Tuesday.

 

Hi Aaron, please post up your progress, are you going to the work yourself? there's a 96 I want to buy that has the same problem.

 

I have a 96 that I replaced the rear spring on. Removal was easy and safe. No spring compressor needed. Place a jack under the hub and crank it up slightly then unbolt the shock absorber; now lower the jack; this allow the spring to completely decompress.

I used a Vette Brakes (VBP) spring which eliminates reusing the factory mounting shims (which you'll probably lose or forget which went where anyway) and I got the longer than stock adjusting bolts which made ride height adjustment a breeze. I also recommend (whatever your opinion of them as suspension bushings) that you get polyurethane mounting pads for the outboard ends of the spring.

 

thanks!

 

Spring just came in today. Bought from VBP

Took a look over her and gawd she's beautiful. I went with the Sport Spring, ultimately given that eventually she's going to be taken off my frequent driver list and onto the "toy car" list and I'd rather not buy another spring down the road. They say it gives a better ride than the stock spring so we'll see once it's on. Very nicely packaged, the foam was angled onto the ends, as well as the sides, at various points along the spring to keep it from moving in the box, and they bubble wrapped the ends and double wound tape. Very well protected. the Spring is also very clearly labeled as to what it is. Very pleased with the packaging, and labeling.

They sent an Email after purchase that seemed to be actually typed out instead of just an auto confirmation email.
So add being greatly satisfied with initial customer service as well to the list.

if I had the driveway for it I could do the job myself it looked like when I had her at the tire shop.

Unfortunately my drive way is so steep that with where the back ends up sitting I can't actually get the jack under the car right now. Usually I drive it up on boards, then edge her up a ramp but sadly my lumber right now is being taken up by my Camaro which is also getting some TLC. Given the car's slight wander, I should get it aligned anyway.

How long are the stock spring bolts?
Or am I going to have to get the 10" spring bolt kit?

When I was under the car, I noticed the trailing arm bushings looked original but like they've been well lubed. I'm going to guess I should get the urethane bushing kit for those too. Or should I just go ahead and upgrade them to the higher performance trailing arms?

 

The original bolts in an '89 are M14 X 2 X 192.5mm long. They would also be drilled and have castellated nuts with cotter key retention. Were it mine and they matched the spec that I just mentioned I believe I'd use them for the install. Did you buy new cushions for the spring install? The M14 is often substituted with a 9/16" bolt but and to duplicate original it would need to be 7 1/2 - 8" long and be SAE threaded I would think. '91 and later was M14 X 2 X 225mm or the same 9/16 SAE but closer to 9". A correct bolt of either variety and of the correct spec won't be an easy find locally, SAE @ Grade 8 or M @ 9.8 or 10.9 - why short-cut the fix now with lesser parts?

You don't need to do the rest of the suspension bushings to do the spring install so why complicate the replacement by doing them now. Later yes or maybe but "now" I'd think NOT. Install the spring, drive it and find some "rumble-strips" on the roadside to shake the suspension out after the install. Check the torque of the fasteners again after the "rumble-strip" shake down and hopefully enjoy.

 

Bolt kit ordered.

Thanks WV.
the bolt kit comes with urethane cushions.