Buying fromebayw

Last edited by bruce017; Nov 29, 2013 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Add question
Have you considered flying to Florida, inspecting the car and driving home? Probably not much difference in cost vs. getting a shipped - plus, you will get to know your new baby pretty well, pretty quickly.... and have some real fun in the process.
I know not all goes this smooth. You have a greater distance. Maybe you can get a forum member to test drive car check it out, and help with final shipping?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Try and contact a Corvette Club in Hialeah. Do a Google and contact the club President via email and ask if the 35th is known to him (maybe a club member), ask if he knows someone who will look at the car for you and verify all the seller has provided. I did this once for a Forum member with a C5. I didnt do much, just checked for leaks and obvious damage. The owner gave me a ride and all was well. I reported back to the buyer that within my limited knowledge the car was what the seller was representing.
As far as a shipper, the advice given to stick with a known carrier with good reviews, not necessarily the cheapest one. Not saying you would not have a good experience with a broker but all things considered I would go with a known entity.
Good luck with it and enjoy your new car!
There were just shy of 2 dozen photos on ebay of the car so I had a good idea cosmetically what I was getting into. I did a Carfax(r) check and there were no recorded accidents so I bid and won the auction subject to an inspection.
I live near Cincinnati and the car was in Detroit so I rented the cheapest car I could get with the idea that if things went well I would drop the rental off and drive the 'Vette back otherwise, if the car was a beater, I'd drive the rental back.
Once in Detroit, I inspected the exterior for damage and paint problems and looked the interior over closely for tears, plastic scratches and so on. I removed the floor mats so I could check to see what shape the carpet was in under the mats. I verified that the jack and spare tire were present as well as the owners manual. I inspected the maintenance history paperwork - incomplete as usual but still useful.
I inspected the engine compartment for general condition, felt the engine to make sure it was cold and then had the owner start it. I watched the throttle linkage as he started to make sure he wasn't "helping it" get started. As it started, I listened for bottom end noises which would indicate bad main bearings and for top end noises that would indicate valve train problems or water pump issues.
I had him stop it, went to the rear and had him restart it so I could check for oil smoke on start up.
The owner and I took the car to a nearby Car-X and I paid the manager $25 to put it up on a lift so I could check for frame repairs from an accident, the state of the exhaust system and for evidence of fluid leaks. I also checked the underside of fiberglass areas I could reach with an inspection mirror looking for built up areas of fiberglass which would indicate collision repairs.
I have an old Auto-Xray scan tool (which works with the OBD-I system as well as OBD-II) and after the inspection on the lift, I hooked the scan tool up and had the owner drive back to his house while I checked for historical codes and monitored the parameters on the scan tool. Using the expected scan tool values chart in a borrowed Factory Service Manual, I compared the readout to what should be happening and everything was as it should be.
As we drove along, I checked the radio/CD/tape player, the AC/heater, the headlight retract motors, power windows and power seats, windshield wipers, etc.
At his house, I did a rough check for a dead/low compression cylinder by holding my hand next to the muffler outlets and feeling for pulsing as the engine idled. I then checked all the interior and exterior lights and I pulled the PVC hose, looking for smoke. I inspected the serpentine belt for wear and checked out the hoses for cracks etc.
I then got in the driver's seat and we went to a nearby mall with a big parking lot. I did what amounted to a low speed slalom so I could check how the car tracked, if the brakes pulled and to see how the clutch felt. I listened for bad wheel bearings, rear end/universal joint clicking and checked for steering rack problems as I did sharp turns.
Lastly, I purposely placed the car in 5th gear, finessed the clutch/throttle to get it moving and then checked how the engine acted under load as we accelerated - a good check for bad plugs/ignition problems.
A ride down the Interstate completed the check out: Acceleration, De-acceleration, transmission synchronizer check, cruise control operation, wind noise, and so on.
After that, with the car checked out, we went to a notary where I gave the owner $8,500 and he signed the title over to me. It was a bargain since the car was in pristine shape and continues to be now (2013) - 4 years later.
If a person is careful, buying a car on ebay is not really any different then buying it anywhere else. You have to get a Carfax printout, do your homework on the model you are considering (this forum is a great resource), do a VERY thorough pre-buy inspection, and not get taken in by looks alone.
Last edited by C4-90-41001; Dec 1, 2013 at 12:07 AM.

1. if you are used to driving a vehicle whose brake pedal requires only a soft touch to activate the brakes, the C4 will feel very different. In order to provide good 'feel", the pedal does take noticeably more effort than that in many cars. I have changed vehicle frequently over the years, and have thus driven a lot of them, and when I got my current C4, I was surprised at the additional pedal effort needed comapred to ANY other recent car or truck I've driven
2. Because the foot well is so narrow, it is VERY easy to touch the gas pedal when braking. I did that a couple of times righty after getting my C4, and did not realize it, as the engine did not rev (because I was also applying brake!). This results in greatl reducing braking capability!
You have to get used to that narrow pedal spacing.But, to be safe, I would have the brake system inspected by a pro, like a brake shop. It's possilbe the pads are way worn, and/or the brake fluid has gotten way too old and there may be corrosion in the brake system as a result.
Do NOT take a chanc eon bad brakes. It can kill you and/or others.
Jim G



















