i have a 91 coupe, am trying to find the right front shocks to transfer the front weight of the car to the back on launch , double shocks?

 

If you mean double adjustable shocks, yes if you want to drive it on the street.

A dedicated drag shock would be the quickest, but not that great at anything else.

 

Easiest way to transfer weight on launch is to remove the front shocks. Just not the safest.
Best way is a pair of front drag shocks.

 

DRM makes a modified bracket for the rear trailing arms. This causes the rear to squat on launch shifting the weight to the back. It also causes it to nose dive slightly on hard breaking transferring more weight to the larger front brakes. I've installed it and highly recommend it. The mounting holes for each pair of trailing arms on each rear side are slightly further apart causing the body to shift towards the rear or front by just a little at just the right time. If you want more weight on the rear but just during launch then use these mounts not shocks. Once moving and cornering the car behaves normally and you can't tell there on. It is the black metal mount between the body and the two red Banski trailing arms

 

thanks for the help, great pics.

 

I would disconnect the front sway-bar. Not the shocks.

 

Seems to me that the way to increase weight transfer to the rear on acceleration is to raise the Center of Gravity (CG). This is why drag cars are set up to allow maximum front end lift.
If you cause the rear end to squat, you'd be lowering the CG....thereby defeating the purpose. The ideal would be to cause both the front and rear to rise during launch. This would raise the CG the max amount.
That's the way I look at it. If you disagree, I'd like to hear the reasons....maybe I'm missing something.

 

The rear squats because more weight is shifted towards it. The C4's have a natural rake towards the front which added to the front mount engine makes the car front heavy (center of gravity towards the front). When you launch, the car levels slightly (center of gravity shifts slightly towards the rear) and then re-rakes towards the front. The new mounting points for the trailing arms causes the car to tilt further towards the rear (squat) therefore shifting more weight towards the rear wheels (center of gravity further towards the rear). The mounting points also allow the car to tilt further forwards under heavy braking putting more weight on the front wheels. My car is a stock 96' LT1 and my wheels would spin easily when launching. Now my front end comes up and the rear squats and the tires just barely slip. The front rises because I'm taking weight off it and putting it on the rear. The rear squats because I'm putting more weight on it. Do a search for the DRM bracket and read all the post about it. The original mounting points where chosen to maintain the car level while launching which leaves to much weight on the front tires and not enough on the rear. Under normal driving the car has the same forward rake as it did before which causes no change to its handling. If you compare the new mounting hole locations to the originals the change is very little but it makes a huge difference in the cars behavior.

If you raise the front and back the same amount you would have no change in weight to either end but the higher car would be lousy at handling (center of gravity to high which you don't want). After all, people lower cars to make them handle better (lower center of gravity which you do want). You "are" changing the center of gravity by letting the rear go lower therefore shifting weight from the front to the back. There is little or no difference between raising the front or lowering the rear. It is the same cause and effect. You could, if you want, raise the front but that would effect the way the car rides and handles under normal driving (center of gravity higher which you don't want). This bracket changes the center of gravity but only during launching and heavy braking. I recommended it to the OP because I have them installed and know they work really well.

Sorry about the length of this but there is no easy way to explain it.

 

thanks for all the info,great reply

 

Thats crazy, you would lose all dampening of your front suspension and at high speeds would be dangerous.

 

I think your best bet would be to get front shocks for the base suspension, non heavy duty. Those shocks will have more rebound. Also, just lower the rear a little more by lengthening the spring bolts. Like someone else said, C4's have a neg rake toward the front built in so just lower the rear to get 0 degree rake or maybe a little positive rake.

 

Changing suspension angles does not change CG of the car at rest. By lowering the rear of the car under acceleration, you are lowering the car's CG, thereby reducing weight transfer to the rear.
The only way to move the CG to the rear under accel is to raise the CG.
Anything you do that lowers any part of the car under acceleration also reduces rearward weight shift. That's just physics.

Does that bracket raise or lower the arm's fwd mounting holes?

 

Re-read my second sentence.

 

rocco16:
We are not talking about the car at rest. I don't agree. Only because I have these brackets installed and when I give it gas the car squats and my tires do not spin. This means there is something wrong with your logic. The weight shifts to the rear and it hooks up really well. So there is something wrong with what you are saying. Reality is not backing your statements. According to you when a dragster lifts the front wheels off the ground by a quarter of an inch no weight would be in the rear yet the entire weight of the car is on only the rear tires. The lifting of the front tires means all the weight is shifting to the rear causing the rear to squat (lower). So with the added weight the rear is lowering but according to you there would be less weight on the rear yet the entire weight of the car is on them. Since physically there is no difference between lowering the rear or raising the front I'm confused.