Engine oil recommendations
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
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Engine oil recommendations
Reading the manual for my recently purchased 95, and the oil section calls for oil meeting GM standard GM4718M, and that not all synthetics may meet it. Sounds like full synthetic oil required? Any feedback on oil choices would be appreciated
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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I would say, any quality, name brand, synthetic out there meets or exceeds the GM4718M spec. I wouldn't put too much into it - mobil 1 for everyday applications, change on or before, recommended intervals, and most of all, use a quality filter.
Last edited by Joe C; Dec 13, 2013 at 04:23 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
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From: Jacksonville FL
Always follow the spec in the manual. Mobil 1 is listed but use any quality syntho will be good. Definitely use a quality filter as Joe suggests. I use Wix specifically and the NAPA Gold is the same filter. A couple of bux more but well worth it.
I have an iron head gen 1 SBC with high mileage so I use dino in mine. I used to always use Castrol but since I am religious about changing the oil at 3K, whatever quality (Havoline generally) oil is on sale at the time is what I use. I tried half and half high mileage one time but it sneaks out of every tiny spot it can.
I have an iron head gen 1 SBC with high mileage so I use dino in mine. I used to always use Castrol but since I am religious about changing the oil at 3K, whatever quality (Havoline generally) oil is on sale at the time is what I use. I tried half and half high mileage one time but it sneaks out of every tiny spot it can.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Quality synthetic motor oils that meet the new Dexos-1 GM standard will work fine. This new standard exceeds the old GM4718M.
I use Mobil-1 in both of my Corvettes and in my Silverado. One big reason is being able to find it on sale at places like Wal-Mart and Costco.
I use Mobil-1 in both of my Corvettes and in my Silverado. One big reason is being able to find it on sale at places like Wal-Mart and Costco.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Always follow the spec in the manual. Mobil 1 is listed but use any quality syntho will be good. Definitely use a quality filter as Joe suggests. I use Wix specifically and the NAPA Gold is the same filter. A couple of bux more but well worth it.
I have an iron head gen 1 SBC with high mileage so I use dino in mine. I used to always use Castrol but since I am religious about changing the oil at 3K, whatever quality (Havoline generally) oil is on sale at the time is what I use. I tried half and half high mileage one time but it sneaks out of every tiny spot it can.
I have an iron head gen 1 SBC with high mileage so I use dino in mine. I used to always use Castrol but since I am religious about changing the oil at 3K, whatever quality (Havoline generally) oil is on sale at the time is what I use. I tried half and half high mileage one time but it sneaks out of every tiny spot it can.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Thanks a bunch
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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age has nothing to do with it - won't hurt anything. some people say that using synthetics in older engines are more prone to leaking - may or may not be true. I know that my old 69 used more synthetic than dino most likely to the valve stem seals. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary from the front/rear mains, valve covers gaskets, etc. personally, on any corvette that didn't come from the factory with synthetic, I wouldn't use it. my advice, FWIW, use a quality (dino) oil and filter as recommended in the owners manual.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
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From: H-Town Texas
In the '95 LT1, a full synthetic is must. These engines are engineered to run a little hotter and hold tighter clearnaces and tolerances. These are the two main things that synthetic oils are designed for.
Synthetics are more heat resistant in terms of viscosity breakdown. They also are designed to have better coating properties especially on cold start ups. Not only this, but as I understand it, the synthetics also have better cleaning properties, and are resistant to sludging.
I have read where some with older engines switch to a synthetic, and discover leaks. I would have to wonder if it isn't some of the 'anti slidging' and cleaning properties of the synthetic that cause these leaks to show themselves?
I run Mobile 1 5-30. The car has almost 160 mi. of which I am responsible for 136K of them. I can see no reason for me to switch
Synthetics are more heat resistant in terms of viscosity breakdown. They also are designed to have better coating properties especially on cold start ups. Not only this, but as I understand it, the synthetics also have better cleaning properties, and are resistant to sludging.
I have read where some with older engines switch to a synthetic, and discover leaks. I would have to wonder if it isn't some of the 'anti slidging' and cleaning properties of the synthetic that cause these leaks to show themselves?
I run Mobile 1 5-30. The car has almost 160 mi. of which I am responsible for 136K of them. I can see no reason for me to switch