'95 Dash Pad Distortion
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
'95 Dash Pad Distortion
I have a "pristine" '95 Coupe with only 17K original miles. It was a one owner car, always garaged and never driven in inclement weather. It has spent it's life in a moderate climate area and meticulously maintained, so I am a little surprised at what is happening with the dash pad. The pad is perfect in all respects except in the area on the right side between the windshield and the air bag opening. In this area, the forward edge of the pad has started to curl upward. It has done this enough that it is quite visible from inside the car and I'm wondering if this is some sort of common problem on these cars? Either it is just naturally curling, or at some point the pad was removed and not reinstalled properly to hold it in place. Does anybody have any experience with this issue and/or any suggestion on how the problem could be eliminated? New dash pads are expensive and I'm hoping to not have to go to that extreme! Thanks
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
Very common, started really showing up about 5 years ago. Its one of those age things. the vinyl cover starts to shrink, causing the foam underlayment to delaminate with the dash, usually on the upper corners first. Eventually the whole dash will separate. Epoxy or staples are the only fix.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Common problem - have it on my '96. I remember reading about the different fixes, among them was one where the owner sewed the edges together with fishing line. If you do a search, you will find the various threads on it.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 415
Likes: 19
From: Mobile Alabama
My 95 is doing the same thing. As a temp fix I took 1/2" o-ring cord and wedged it in-between the glass and dash. Holds itself in place and pushed the dash pad back down, not very noticeable either.
Last edited by SoAlVette; Jan 1, 2014 at 03:55 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,742
Likes: 629
From: Manheim Pennsylvania
My 1995 convertible with 10,000 miles, doesn't have this problem, yet? Second owner, I have no idea how it was stored previously, I own it five years this spring. What color interior, mine is black.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
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My interior is light gray leather, but the dash pad is black (I think they all are?). The car was always garaged and kept under a cover; no excessive sunlight exposure AT ALL! It must just be normal vinyl shrinkage....it kind of gripes me that a car the caliber of a Corvette seems to frequently have this sort of component life limitation, no matter how well it is protected!
The fix above using a 3/4" o-ring cord....what exactly is a 3/4" o-ring cord? Sounds like a quick, temporary fix!
The fix above using a 3/4" o-ring cord....what exactly is a 3/4" o-ring cord? Sounds like a quick, temporary fix!
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 415
Likes: 19
From: Mobile Alabama
My interior is light gray leather, but the dash pad is black (I think they all are?). The car was always garaged and kept under a cover; no excessive sunlight exposure AT ALL! It must just be normal vinyl shrinkage....it kind of gripes me that a car the caliber of a Corvette seems to frequently have this sort of component life limitation, no matter how well it is protected!
The fix above using a 3/4" o-ring cord....what exactly is a 3/4" o-ring cord? Sounds like a quick, temporary fix!
The fix above using a 3/4" o-ring cord....what exactly is a 3/4" o-ring cord? Sounds like a quick, temporary fix!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I had a '94 that did it too. I think it is a pretty common problem.
I had a cracked windshield replaced. While the window was out I took some super glue into/under the lifted section and held it down for about 10 or 15 minutes. It stayed down for a least another 6 months until I sold that car.
I had a cracked windshield replaced. While the window was out I took some super glue into/under the lifted section and held it down for about 10 or 15 minutes. It stayed down for a least another 6 months until I sold that car.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
'95 Dash Pad Distortion = fix for problem
I have a "pristine" '95 Coupe with only 17K original miles. It was a one owner car, always garaged and never driven in inclement weather. It has spent it's life in a moderate climate area and meticulously maintained, so I am a little surprised at what is happening with the dash pad. The pad is perfect in all respects except in the area on the right side between the windshield and the air bag opening. In this area, the forward edge of the pad has started to curl upward. It has done this enough that it is quite visible from inside the car and I'm wondering if this is some sort of common problem on these cars? Either it is just naturally curling, or at some point the pad was removed and not reinstalled properly to hold it in place. Does anybody have any experience with this issue and/or any suggestion on how the problem could be eliminated? New dash pads are expensive and I'm hoping to not have to go to that extreme! Thanks
After removal you will see the problem: The foam has lifted from the bottom plastic of the dash pad. In my case this extended across the entire front from left to right including around the defroster vent. I was concerned about using the correct adhesive on the foam and plastic because with the heat of the sun hitting the area I was afraid it would soften and eventually the problem would return. Being a model builder, I chose to use a two part epoxy cement which can be purchased at any hobby store. Use a 30 minute epoxy this will give you enough time to spread it evenly (using a Q-tip) between the foam and the bottom plastic shell of the dash pad. Don't try and do it all at once! Pick a 12-18 inch section at a time. After spreading the epoxy on the plastic and foam you will need to clamp the two surfaces. Get some "C" clamps from Home Depot and some paint sticks. What you want to do is clamp the surfaces evenly so there is about 3/8" space between the top pad skin and the bottom plastic shell. You can actually try this before you apply the epoxy to get a feel and see how it looks clamped. The foam is in between, kind of like an ice cream sandwich. Tighten the clamps over the paint sticks so you maintain an even space along the length you are repairing. Have some 91% rubbing alcohol handy you can use this to clean the two surfaces before you apply the epoxy, and in case you smear some epoxy on the top pad surface. Epoxy can be removed easily before it dries. Let the repair set for 24 hours, then remove the clamps and paint sticks move to the next section and repeat the process, until you have repaired all the areas showing the defect. Once you have completed all the areas you will have a like new dash pad ready for re-installation. Make sure you fix all the areas showing the defect, even if it seems questionable , fix it now because you don't want what you did not fix to show up later. The 2 part epoxy is very strong once it has set and it will not soften and release in the future. You will have a permanent fix, and it looks as good as new. Total cost for 30 minute epoxy approx.$10.00. I had the clamps, and paint sticks. Don't worry about any "dents in the dash pad where you apply the clamps, this corrects itself after the clamps are removed. I did apply some flat black enamel paint along the very front edge of the foam when I was done. I didn't want any chance of the brown foam showing after I was done. It really looks great.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Sledge_78
Update
October 2018 - Dash pad repair still looks great like it came from Chevrolet when new. Been four(4) years in the hot Arizona Desert and no failure to the repair.
Last edited by sledge_78; Oct 20, 2018 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Update to post
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
'95 Dash Pad Distortion
Thank you, I just finished this project a few weeks ago after reading all the threads about this on the forum. This is a common problem as I too had learned. You can't buy a new dash pad for a 96 so you have to repair what you have. Even if you could get a good one from a wreck, it would probably fail in the future since these are about 17+ years old. This fix works, and really does look good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 101
From: Pendleton IN
Thank you, I just finished this project a few weeks ago after reading all the threads about this on the forum. This is a common problem as I too had learned. You can't buy a new dash pad for a 96 so you have to repair what you have. Even if you could get a good one from a wreck, it would probably fail in the future since these are about 17+ years old. This fix works, and really does look good.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
I have the shop manual for this '95 as well, and read about dash pad removal. It doesn't sound too bad as long as nothing "unexpected" pops up. (But I'd hoped I could avoid that little chore!)
Your fix described above sounds perfect! That is definitely what I will be doing as the condition of this car warrants a "perfect" dash. The only spot showing separation at this point is between the right side air bag and the windshield, but as long as I am removing the pad, I will check it out all over! Thanks for that complete description of how to deal with this issue!! Sounds like something even an old guy like me can do!
Your fix described above sounds perfect! That is definitely what I will be doing as the condition of this car warrants a "perfect" dash. The only spot showing separation at this point is between the right side air bag and the windshield, but as long as I am removing the pad, I will check it out all over! Thanks for that complete description of how to deal with this issue!! Sounds like something even an old guy like me can do!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
Question on the fix that is detailed above: I'm not familiar with the dash pad construction, but it sounds like there is a molded "base" that is covered with a foam layer and then finished with an outer, vinyl layer? When you put the epoxy into this "assembly" did you just leave the foam layer in place or remove it in the affected areas so that the vinyl would bond directly to the molded base? If you left the foam, did you cover it with epoxy too? Can you provide the brand name/specific product info for the epoxy used? I can't see messing with perfection! Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
Question on the fix that is detailed above: I'm not familiar with the dash pad construction, but it sounds like there is a molded "base" that is covered with a foam layer and then finished with an outer, vinyl layer? When you put the epoxy into this "assembly" did you just leave the foam layer in place or remove it in the affected areas so that the vinyl would bond directly to the molded base? If you left the foam, did you cover it with epoxy too? Can you provide the brand name/specific product info for the epoxy used? I can't see messing with perfection! Thanks.
You are correct in your description of the dash pad construction. Leave the foam in place just re-glue the foam that has separated itself from the molded base. It is usually separated from the molded base rather than the outer vinyl layer. If you remove the foam and glue the outer cover directly to the molded base you WILL cause an unsightly depression in the appearance of the vinyl layer. You don't want to do that. Just try and put everything back together the way it was made originally. If you have to add a small piece of foam because of a void then do it. Again, you want to maintain the smooth flat layer of the dash pad. Unfortunately, the brand name for the epoxy was a store brand private label. However, Any good model airplane hobby store will carry 30 minute epoxy. It comes in two bottles an "A" & "B" which you mix together 50/50. You can also buy it online from Tower Hobbies.com There are 5 five screws that fasten the dash pad, and three nuts which have to be removed from the studs behind the passenger side A/C vent. The service manual just says "studs". Once you remove the nuts there are three tabs which hold the lower dash knee pad in place. Be careful, the tabs are plastic, you don't want to break them off - word to the wise.
Sledge_78
Last edited by sledge_78; Jan 2, 2014 at 01:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
Sledge_78: Your instructions on how to fix this problem are absolutely
Sledge_78: You're instructions on how to fix this dash pad issue are superb! Very well written and complete, even down to the things to watch out for when following the shop manual while removing the dash pad. I hadn't planned on a "project" like this, but you make it sound not only doable, but sort of fun. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of knowledge and experience!! That's what makes these forums so valuable!
Sledge_78: You're instructions on how to fix this dash pad issue are superb! Very well written and complete, even down to the things to watch out for when following the shop manual while removing the dash pad. I hadn't planned on a "project" like this, but you make it sound not only doable, but sort of fun. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of knowledge and experience!! That's what makes these forums so valuable!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
Sledge_78: Your instructions on how to fix this problem are absolutely
Sledge_78: You're instructions on how to fix this dash pad issue are superb! Very well written and complete, even down to the things to watch out for when following the shop manual while removing the dash pad. I hadn't planned on a "project" like this, but you make it sound not only doable, but sort of fun. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of knowledge and experience!! That's what makes these forums so valuable!
Sledge_78: You're instructions on how to fix this dash pad issue are superb! Very well written and complete, even down to the things to watch out for when following the shop manual while removing the dash pad. I hadn't planned on a "project" like this, but you make it sound not only doable, but sort of fun. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of knowledge and experience!! That's what makes these forums so valuable!
Glad I could help, good luck to you on that 95 dash pad fix.
Sledge_78.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
Not to beat this subject to death, but I was "thumbing through" a Corvette Central catalogue (for C4 models) recently and saw that they offer a dash pad for the '94 to '96 models. There isn't much info about it except that it includes a glove box and costs $595 and they call it a replacement dash pad. Does anybody know anything about these pads? How do they get a glove box in them? Are they any good or a cheap copy? They got my curiosity up, even though I am committed to repairing my original pad per the above method. Thoughts?
