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I have a squeaking sound I have narrowed down to the front drive shaft has anyone had any any luck changing the ujoints without a lift? is their enough room to remove the exhaust and access everything with just ramps or jackstands .
You don't need to remove the whole exhaust. Just back to the rear Y-pipe. I did support the front of the rear Y-pipe because the exhaust tips were pressing against the rear bumper cover and I didn't want it to get distorted.
Thanks guys I am going to give it a try next week, has anyone had any luck without Removing the C-beam ?
I believe there are a couple "pinch-welds/seams" that can be ground to make it possible to do without the removal of the C-beam BUT it does need to be detached to push out of the way. I have never done it that way but I recall it being mentioned a time or two.
I did mine without removing the C beam. I had to wiggle and pry but it came out, just enough room to sqeeze it past... I was using a lift which made the whole process much easier..Make sure you press the universals in and out , aluminum shafts won't take much banging with a hammer before sustaining damage......WW
Well I got the drive shaft out with out removing the c beam but what a PITA looks like it will be harder putting it back in though.
You should be able to trim back some of the seams that I mentioned earlier to aid the "install" - did you spot any that I mentioned? It's been many years since I've been under and serviced any of the drive- line. I did everything including beam-plates NOT so much for the claimed increase in stability but just because of the "ease of installation" that it affords.
I believe there are a couple "pinch-welds/seams" that can be ground to make it possible to do without the removal of the C-beam BUT it does need to be detached to push out of the way. I have never done it that way but I recall it being mentioned a time or two.
that's the way I did it - there is an area about 1/8" X 2" that needs to be ground away. no big deal - a whole lot easier than dropping that C-beam
Went to a local drive shaft shop and they had the spicers in stock. Got the drive shaft back in but I still have my squeak at the and of the tail shaft (glad I tested it before putting my exhaust back in) the seal at the tail shaft looks good but guess I should go ahead and replace it.
Went to a local drive shaft shop and they had the spicers in stock. Got the drive shaft back in but I still have my squeak at the and of the tail shaft (glad I tested it before putting my exhaust back in) the seal at the tail shaft looks good but guess I should go ahead and replace it.
I don't see where you've ever mentioned the transmission type OR miles but an appropriate service while doing the u-joints would be the extension housing bushing as well as the seal that you mention doing presently. I would do both parts if it's higher miles and hasn't had a trans rebuild. It would be best to remove the extension housing and having a shop do the bushing for you.
It has 42K miles on the S,R,T,A automatic transmission installed from the Chevrolet dealer.
The seal is certainly inexpensive and you could pass on the bushing. If there's only 42K the SRTA will still be in warranty if the issue is with the transmission.
Thanks for all the helpful info I got it all out back together on Tuesday and it really wasn't bad putting it back together. Anyway I still have a squeak but only after I drive about 15 minutes and it warms up,seams like it is coming from the right rear mostly when accelerating I am thinking half shaft u joint or wheel bearing.it does not seam to any play when I jack it up and wiggle the wheel though.