Electric water pump
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 10
Electric water pump
Anyone using an electric water pump for their daily driver or somewhat of a daily driver. If so, any problems? I have noticed when people replace them on their track cars they seem to rev just a little quicker than with the mechanical water pump. I'm thinking about putting one on my 93 thats not really a daily driver, maybe a couple times a week. Please dime in. Thanks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 10
Anyone using an electric water pump for their daily driver or somewhat of a daily driver. If so, any problems? I have noticed when people replace them on their track cars they seem to rev just a little quicker than with the mechanical water pump. I'm thinking about putting one on my 93 thats not really a daily driver, maybe a couple times a week. Please dime in. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
Likes: 508
From: South-central Missouri
We've a few ZR-1 pilots using them, or used to.
On a 500+ hp LT5 they're worth around 12+ hp; maybe a little less on a SBC, would just be a guess. Also, the LT5 mechanical pump goes into cavitation around 5500 rpm and over. So, for sustained track use above 5500, there is some concern for overheating, which is addressed by switching to the electric pump.
Electric pumps may not be as reliable as the mechanical pumps. They have been known to quit all together or blow a fuse and quit, etc. (Locally one of our FBI gang had his pump go out w/o warning, except the heat gauge pegged. He cooked that LT5's sleeves. Fortunately, he was able to find some NOS replacements with the nikasil linings.)
So, although I like the idea of cheap hp, the vision of an electric pump dying while on the road, and not being able to grab one at the local NAPA, or the like, gives me pause. FURTHERMORE, I would want to install some type of monitoring circuitry to tell me when the pump had quit, other than the over temp light coming on (to tell me why the motor is now crap
). Some sort of electric current monitoring device, methinks...
Reliability is THEE issue. In my experience, mechanical pumps are, by comparison, MUCH more reliable than electric pumps. However, if the use is limited to short drives and track events, especially if it is rigged to where there is constant monitoring, then by all means the electric would be a serious consideration. 99.9% of my driving is on the street/highways. For me, the mechanical pump stays.
Your mileage may vary.
P.
On a 500+ hp LT5 they're worth around 12+ hp; maybe a little less on a SBC, would just be a guess. Also, the LT5 mechanical pump goes into cavitation around 5500 rpm and over. So, for sustained track use above 5500, there is some concern for overheating, which is addressed by switching to the electric pump.
Electric pumps may not be as reliable as the mechanical pumps. They have been known to quit all together or blow a fuse and quit, etc. (Locally one of our FBI gang had his pump go out w/o warning, except the heat gauge pegged. He cooked that LT5's sleeves. Fortunately, he was able to find some NOS replacements with the nikasil linings.)
So, although I like the idea of cheap hp, the vision of an electric pump dying while on the road, and not being able to grab one at the local NAPA, or the like, gives me pause. FURTHERMORE, I would want to install some type of monitoring circuitry to tell me when the pump had quit, other than the over temp light coming on (to tell me why the motor is now crap
). Some sort of electric current monitoring device, methinks... Reliability is THEE issue. In my experience, mechanical pumps are, by comparison, MUCH more reliable than electric pumps. However, if the use is limited to short drives and track events, especially if it is rigged to where there is constant monitoring, then by all means the electric would be a serious consideration. 99.9% of my driving is on the street/highways. For me, the mechanical pump stays.
Your mileage may vary.
P.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 10
We've a few ZR-1 pilots using them, or used to.
On a 500+ hp LT5 they're worth around 12+ hp; maybe a little less on a SBC, would just be a guess. Also, the LT5 mechanical pump goes into cavitation around 5500 rpm and over. So, for sustained track use above 5500, there is some concern for overheating, which is addressed by switching to the electric pump.
Electric pumps may not be as reliable as the mechanical pumps. They have been known to quit all together or blow a fuse and quit, etc. (Locally one of our FBI gang had his pump go out w/o warning, except the heat gauge pegged. He cooked that LT5's sleeves. Fortunately, he was able to find some NOS replacements with the nikasil linings.)
So, although I like the idea of cheap hp, the vision of an electric pump dying while on the road, and not being able to grab one at the local NAPA, or the like, gives me pause. FURTHERMORE, I would want to install some type of monitoring circuitry to tell me when the pump had quit, other than the over temp light coming on (to tell me why the motor is now crap). Some sort of electric current monitoring device, methinks...
Reliability is THEE issue. In my experience, mechanical pumps are, by comparison, MUCH more reliable than electric pumps. However, if the use is limited to short drives and track events, especially if it is rigged to where there is constant monitoring, then by all means the electric would be a serious consideration. 99.9% of my driving is on the street/highways. For me, the mechanical pump stays.
Your mileage may vary.
P.
On a 500+ hp LT5 they're worth around 12+ hp; maybe a little less on a SBC, would just be a guess. Also, the LT5 mechanical pump goes into cavitation around 5500 rpm and over. So, for sustained track use above 5500, there is some concern for overheating, which is addressed by switching to the electric pump.
Electric pumps may not be as reliable as the mechanical pumps. They have been known to quit all together or blow a fuse and quit, etc. (Locally one of our FBI gang had his pump go out w/o warning, except the heat gauge pegged. He cooked that LT5's sleeves. Fortunately, he was able to find some NOS replacements with the nikasil linings.)
So, although I like the idea of cheap hp, the vision of an electric pump dying while on the road, and not being able to grab one at the local NAPA, or the like, gives me pause. FURTHERMORE, I would want to install some type of monitoring circuitry to tell me when the pump had quit, other than the over temp light coming on (to tell me why the motor is now crap
). Some sort of electric current monitoring device, methinks... Reliability is THEE issue. In my experience, mechanical pumps are, by comparison, MUCH more reliable than electric pumps. However, if the use is limited to short drives and track events, especially if it is rigged to where there is constant monitoring, then by all means the electric would be a serious consideration. 99.9% of my driving is on the street/highways. For me, the mechanical pump stays.
Your mileage may vary.
P.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 17
From: woodbury new jersey
been using one on my 94 for about 3 years now, works great. had to replace the little relay that was used in the wiring kit I bought but it was maybe $2, and that wasn't a problem with the pump, just the cheap relay
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,700
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 10
I might try it. Again I will only be driving it a couple days a week may be 3 days a week tops. I also constantly check my gauges. I habit that I developed when I had to drive some real buckets when I was younger. Lol