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So the '91 seems to be down for the count again. This time I have no idea what could be wrong with it.
It is my daily driver, it was working normal until it slowly started to let me down by not starting! Left me stranded 3 times in one week. Now it won't even start at all! The lights turn on when the key is in, but as I turn the key, no clicking-sound, no turn of the starter, nothing.
I have already bypassed the VATS installing a little plugin that I bought off Ebay for $20. I haven't been left stranded ever since I installed it.
I had a new starter put in about 2 months ago, and the battery is new.
no crank problems are usaly fairly easy to fiqure out. check to see if you have 12 volts or more on the large term on the starter. Then with the help of a friend you need to check for 12 volts or more on the small term (s term) of the starter when the key is turned to crank. These are the basics you need to have the car crank. plus a ground. Let us know what you find with this and we can go futher
This sounds like Either a cable, or a connection problem. Have you inspected your battery cables closely, I've had a cable at the battery look good with a casual inspection, but up close I could see corrosion oozing out from around the cable crimp.. and then there are the grounds you have to be concerned about.
one test you could try; attempt to start it with the headlights turned on, if they dim way down then there is either a battery or cable issue, if they remain the same then there is probably a starter, or starter cable issue.
This sounds like Either a cable, or a connection problem. Have you inspected your battery cables closely, I've had a cable at the battery look good with a casual inspection, but up close I could see corrosion oozing out from around the cable crimp.. and then there are the grounds you have to be concerned about.
one test you could try; attempt to start it with the headlights turned on, if they dim way down then there is either a battery or cable issue, if they remain the same then there is probably a starter, or starter cable issue.
Had a friend replace all kinds of stuff on two diff vehicles and it turned out too be the neg cable each time and diff symptoms. They are cheap and I replace them on most my new-used vehicles.
There is a switch on the steering column under the hush panel, there is a rod that presses down when you turn the ignition key.
If the two screws are not tight the switch may have moved and won't put 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
May be a simple matter of moving the switch assembly a little toward the steering wheel and presto, do not forget there is a starter interrupt relay and make sure the trans is in Park or neutral there is a switch under the shifter console.
You should get a shop manual for your car, you cannot do without it there is so much information to diagnose things yourself.
Had the switch go bad (or misadjusted) on the clutch in mine after having the clutch master and slave replaced. Bypassed it to confirm it was the switch with a jumper wire and fired right off.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Stop guessing. Stop throwing parts at it. You need to purchase an FSM so you can follow the 'no start" flow chart.
If you would like me to e-mail you a copy of mine I will do so but you really need to have your own book or CD.
PM me your e-mail if you would like a copy of the "no start".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-91-CORVETTE-L98-LT5-FACTORY-GM-REPAIR-SERVICE-SHOP-MANUAL-SET-/331192763263?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4d1ca0837f&vxp=mtr
have the battery checked. Ive twice had new batterys that were no good. Id also check the battery cable. I once changed the starter and battery when all it was was a cable. Looked good on the outside but was coroded on the inside.
Just so everyone knows, the problem was with the starter. The dumb mechanics who installed it torqued the small cable on the soleniod down too tight and that caused the wires to break loose from the stud, causing the car to intermittantly start. For future reference, if the small terminal or stud on your starter spins freely when the wire is disconnected, then something is wrong. We ended up opening up the top of the starter and sodering he two copper wires back onto the stud. To me it was a crappy design, and those two wires should have been a metal spade. I bet we can blame the penny pinchers in China for making the starter like that!