95 corvette question
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Joined: Jul 2007
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95 corvette question
I recently bought a 95 vette. The ignition key is a regular
gm key. Shouldn't it have a chip like my 87 vette or did
someone switch it out and do away with the built in alarm
system. I am really confused on this car. Thanks in advance.
gm key. Shouldn't it have a chip like my 87 vette or did
someone switch it out and do away with the built in alarm
system. I am really confused on this car. Thanks in advance.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Cave Creek Arizona
It is a quick and dirty fix to avoid locating the original parts.
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Vehicle Anti-Theft System, also called PASS-KEY. It is the system that reads the resistance on the key (among other things) to allow the car to start. Sometime when the ignition switch goes bad the owner will bypass the system by inserting the proper value resistor in the wiring, bypassing the ignition switch. Typically they open up the wiring below the dash, in the steering column, and locate the proper orange and black wires and insert the resistor at this point. This acts the same as if the proper key was always in the ignition. At that point any key that will turn the switch will start the car.
It is a quick and dirty fix to avoid locating the original parts.
It is a quick and dirty fix to avoid locating the original parts.
Ok just read up on it. Found some posts on this subject. My last
question is the ignition switch is loose. Would it be the same ignition
switch as a new one and I just get it keyed to the non resister key
I have.
Thank you for your help
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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A new column key cylinder would come with two new keys. You would toss your present keys. What do you mean by "loose"?
Le Mans Master
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From: South-central Missouri
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Minneapolis Mn
Vats
From what I've read, the Vats system reads the key on initial startup and saves that and it's not modifiable for the duration. If changing out the cylinder and key, you want to get keys with the same resistance value as the originals or change out the board so it's a first read.
Easiest way is to get a VATs bypass for the original key, then the replacement value doesn't matter, though you no longer have the security of Vats on the key.
Easiest way is to get a VATs bypass for the original key, then the replacement value doesn't matter, though you no longer have the security of Vats on the key.
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Team Owner
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I asked - explain loose? I don't know what he means here but if there's a non-resistor cylinder in the car presently and it starts/runs then there's no need for the more expensive "correct" cylinder. To put the car back to "original" would require the correct cylinder A4 or M6, use a VATS interrogator to quiz the CCM OR maybe just ID the resistor used for the by-pass (if that's how it was done) by the rings or DMM and then get keys made to match the work key supplied with the new cylinder BUT with the correct resistor. I'd likely prefer the use of the VATS interrogator.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 8, 2014 at 09:48 AM.
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The OP mentions (it seems) the cylinder in his car has been replaced by a non-resistor replacement and that "hints" that the key resistance aspect of the VATS has been by-passed likely at the column base or in some fashion. It's entirely possible that someone has taken the old cylinder or another resistor cylinder and just stuffed it up under the dash.
I asked - explain loose? I don't know what he means here but if there's a non-resistor cylinder in the car presently and it starts/runs then there's no need for the more expensive "correct" cylinder. To put the car back to "original" would require the correct cylinder A4 or M6, use a VATS interrogator to quiz the CCM OR maybe just ID the resistor used for the by-pass (if that's how it was done) by the rings or DMM and then get keys made to match the work key supplied with the new cylinder BUT with the correct resistor. I'd likely prefer the use of the VATS
interrogator.
I asked - explain loose? I don't know what he means here but if there's a non-resistor cylinder in the car presently and it starts/runs then there's no need for the more expensive "correct" cylinder. To put the car back to "original" would require the correct cylinder A4 or M6, use a VATS interrogator to quiz the CCM OR maybe just ID the resistor used for the by-pass (if that's how it was done) by the rings or DMM and then get keys made to match the work key supplied with the new cylinder BUT with the correct resistor. I'd likely prefer the use of the VATS
interrogator.
The key assembly is loose in the column. There is some lateral
movement of the assembly