Looking for a source other than a dealer that can make new ignition keys by sourcing the key code from the VIN. Car is a '92 with the resistor pellet in the key, but I can ID the pellet value with a VOM or with the car's CCM diagnostics. The keys I have are both very worn and at some point, they won't work any more. It does me no good to have the old keys copied in the usual way.

 

Why on earth are you wanting to avoid a dealer for the key information? A talented person can read the "bit cuts" from even an extremely worn key. The dealer can drop your key to confirm for you the resistance, the VIN request will get you the mechanical codes for both keys but it's unlikely that the resistance information will be included. Some report that recently it has been included in the request.

It doesn't matter who requests the codes if the cylinder has been changed it's of "NO VALUE".

 

If I was you I would start calling dealerships if they still have there cutting machines for these cars. When I worked at dealership service department I used to cut keys off the vin number never using the key. I know lot of the dealerships start to toss there cutting machine and book for the numbers.
You might want to start calling them, and asking.
When they cut the key, they read it the key and cut it like brand new, which it will be when they are done. The charge is 1 hour of labor.
Act now!

 

In the past, I have had extremely poor results from the local Chevy dealer in my small town- service varied between incompetent and dishonest. Fortunately, I am able to do all the work on our own motor pool, as I have a "service bay" set up in my garage, including a lift. The first accessory I buy with any vehicle is the factory service manual.

I can call around and try to find a more substantial GM dealer to make the key. I have to say, though, that in my experience, the dealers are much better at selling than they are at servicing. I suppose they can't really screw up a key- either it works, or it doesn't.

At various times over the years, when I used to use dealer service, they have left tools under the hood, underfilled the crankcase by 2 quarts, installed greasy fingerprints on the seat, pulled a steering column apart when the real problem was a burned out flasher (and left pinched wires in the column that short out the cruise control).

I once bought an off-lease Blazer that was "factory certified". They showed me the comprehensive checklist they used but they gave it to me with a failed front axle boot and the fenderwell coated with old grease. So they had just put off the repair until they could charge it back to GM with the "certified" program.

A few years back, the salesman proudly delivered my wife's new Hyundai with a flat tire.

There may be a good service department somewhere, but I haven't found it.

 

I can believe all you said, cause I have to say I saw and herd it all, and you are right, it happens.
Cutting a key is cut and dry, your right either works or don't, but has I found out dealerships are making room with today's tools and books and discarded the old stuff, that's why I say check around for dealership still have tool to cut keys and the book that transfers the vin into numbers to cut.
Good luck.

 

Have you checked any local (brick and mortar) locksmiths?
Many have the resources and better pricing...

 

Thanks all for the input. I pulled the resistance code using the ccm and found a reasonably nearby dealer who had the correct blank, out of 15 possibles. With that info, they cut a new key from the vin, $30. One of my old ones was not too worn, the other looked like a stump. So, all is well, the sun is shining, the birds are chirping, and suchlike. Now, if I could only find the correct mop to paint my other car...

 

I have recently had 2 spare keys made for my 96. One from a dealer, $19.00 and one from a lock and key shop, $14.00. Resistor value was checked by both from the original key and both work perfectly. I guess I am just lucky. I didn't have a problem.

 

How did they cut the key from the vin. As far as I know that information is only available to the dealers. I also do not think they are keeping records that far back. I also know GM changed their policy fo cutting keys by vin. If the dealers are doing it the way they are supposed to only the owner of the car with proff of ownership can get a key cut by vin

 

Wasn't as painful as you expected. If the key was done by VIN did you ask for the information from the "key call"? That would have given you key information for your records and if you lost your keys when NOT local key duplication could be much easier!

For your car and all years other than '86 there are only 14 possibilities.

 

'92 FSM shows chip codes 1-15, which I accessed thru the ccm. The dealer advised by phone that the correct key blank was on the shelf. The parts dept. confirmed ownership using license/reg. and of course, they saw the car (which, btw, they admired). The key was cut based on the vin info.

I'm told that GM will likely soon be abandoning the blanks, data, and allied equipment for these chip keys. In fact, this dealer just happened to have what I needed, but could probably have ordered it as things currently stand. But since I now have two good keys, when they are obsoleted by GM, I could still get another key from a key shop, even if I have to supply the chip code.

So, a positive, though minor, dealer experience. But, I will continue to maintain and repair our own motor pool, thus saving inconvenience, time, expense, and dealer screwups. Herewith some detail on the Blazer incident mentioned earlier in this thread:

I had just bought the Blazer at a dealer about an hour away, and was to drive it home. I noticed that the turn signals weren't working, and suggested that the flasher was burned out. The service department scorned my diagnosis and took the truck into the shop. Several hours (!) later, it was ready. Their report: We replaced the turn signal switch, after which it was "half fixed", then we replaced the flasher, and it was "all fixed". On the trip home, I discovered that the cruise control now worked erratically.

When I got home, I found the wiring in the column had been made into a giant knot with some wires pinched, thus shorting out the c-c at random. Needless to say, I fixed it myself.

Box score: one needless repair, likely charged back to GM. Several hours of my time wasted while waiting. One repair of the repair, in my garage, by yours truly.

I could have cited other incidents over the years, but my point is made. For this household, the dealer is the last resort.