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C4 coolant burp

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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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Default C4 coolant burp

Does anyone know if there is an apparatus available to install that
could be used for coolant burping?
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by pkrbkr13
Does anyone know if there is an apparatus available to install that
could be used for coolant burping?
I use something similar to this tool. This tool bleeds the system and fills the engine with coolant. You have to have access to a small air compressor to use this.


Amazon.com: FJC 43610 Radiator Coolant Vacuum Refill Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: FJC 43610 Radiator Coolant Vacuum Refill Kit: Automotive
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 09:21 AM
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What year is your car? The LT1 motors have two bleed screws (1 on the throttle body, another on the t-stat housing) that are used to remove air pockets when filling the system.

On the L98 cars, all you have to do is to fill the system, start the engine and when the thermostat opens and the level in the radiator drops, keep filling the radiator and then raise the engine RPM to around 1100-1200 RPM and add more coolant. Then replace the pressure cap.

The LT1 cars can be done in this fashion too. Make sure there is coolant in the overflow bottle at the "COLD" mark. It also helps to have the front of the car up on jack stands.
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
What year is your car? The LT1 motors have two bleed screws (1 on the throttle body, another on the t-stat housing) that are used to remove air pockets when filling the system.

On the L98 cars, all you have to do is to fill the system, start the engine and when the thermostat opens and the level in the radiator drops, keep filling the radiator and then raise the engine RPM to around 1100-1200 RPM and add more coolant. Then replace the pressure cap.

The LT1 cars can be done in this fashion too. Make sure there is coolant in the overflow bottle at the "COLD" mark. It also helps to have the front of the car up on jack stands.
On the L-98 cars you can buy a radiator filling kit from Auto Zone for about $22 which I highly recommend. It is a universal fit and with the L-98 neck at at angle, there is an elbow that will hold the filler funnel straight. Remove the radiator cap and start the car up to where your thermostat opens. Mine was a 195 degree. Fill the radiator and then shut the car down and let it cool. Then add anti-freeze and distilled water. After it is sufficiently cooled down you may have to add more fluid. Start the car back up and let it warm up again and if it is low, then add more fluid until it's full. By doing so, the "fart" bubble should relieve itself. I would ad it's nice to have a buddy to help you monitor the engine temp as it is hard trying to figure out the engine RPM while you are outside watching the radiator. You may have to do this 2-3 times. When the radiator is completely full, put the cap on and leave it. I would also recommend you drain the extra coolant tank of any liquid and mix your anti-freeze and distilled water to the proper level. Should your "low coolant light" come on again, fill the overflow tank and you should be ok. BE CAREFUL AND I CAN'T STRESS THAT ENOUGH!!! You are talking to an idiot who learned the hard way and suffered a terrible burn. I was fortunate enough to turn my head and the hot anti-freeze ricocheted off my wheel well and onto my back suffering 2nd degree burns over 80% of my back! I was lucky. Had the anti-freeze hit my face, I could have inhaled it and died or suffered horrible facial burns.
I admit I was stupid but I could NOT read my RPM level. Also one more thing, add a bottle of "Water Wetter" to your coolant tank and it will help lower the temp by about 8 degrees when running. Getting the "fart" bubble as I call it can be dangerous. I have done it many times but it just takes the one time you become careless and terrible consequences can occur. One more thing and I will shut up. If you sustain a burn, regardless of size, IMMEDIATELY wash off the fluids.
Tommy
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
What year is your car? The LT1 motors have two bleed screws (1 on the throttle body, another on the t-stat housing) that are used to remove air pockets when filling the system.

On the L98 cars, all you have to do is to fill the system, start the engine and when the thermostat opens and the level in the radiator drops, keep filling the radiator and then raise the engine RPM to around 1100-1200 RPM and add more coolant. Then replace the pressure cap.

The LT1 cars can be done in this fashion too. Make sure there is coolant in the overflow bottle at the "COLD" mark. It also helps to have the front of the car up on jack stands.
Car is a 1988 35th anniversary.
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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I use the UView Airlift tool (# 550000 I think). You hook it up to shop air and it draws a vacuum on the empty cooling system. Leave it there for a few minutes to make sure you have no leaks and then it'll suck your antifreeze mixture back in. No need to purge the system. Works like a charm, I'd highly recommend it. I posted my coolant swap a while back, I think I had pics..
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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Here's a link to the one i use:

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 10:06 PM
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Your L98 really doesn't need any tooling to burp the cooling system.
Fire it up let it get warm enough to open the t-stat.
Set the heater on full hot.
Rev the engine to 2500 and start pouring in your coolant.
Might even find that 3000 will permit more coolant.
Once the system won't take any more coolant, secure the cap, before letting off the throttle!

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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mxw128
I use the UView Airlift tool (# 550000 I think). You hook it up to shop air and it draws a vacuum on the empty cooling system. Leave it there for a few minutes to make sure you have no leaks and then it'll suck your antifreeze mixture back in. No need to purge the system. Works like a charm, I'd highly recommend it. I posted my coolant swap a while back, I think I had pics..
I have the Airlift tool and found that you need high volume air to get a good enough vacuum for it to work. My little diaphragm air compressor wouldn't do it.

What I do is fill the system and run it. Next day fill again, etc. That works for me. The air gets pushed into the overflow tank each time the engine is shut off. Then it sucks coolant back in to replace the air when it cools off. The coolant temp goes way up when you stop the engine and it isn't circulating.
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