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My temp. issue !

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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 01:31 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Claybird49
I had asked advice on my C4 running what I thought was hot, 220-225 and was told by several that those temps. were normal. I'm old school and with that said, anything over 210 is time to get out and see whats wrong. So, okay, these Vettes ran that hot, doesn't make it normal. After pulling what Chevy called a radiator, I found that they had at least left plenty of room to fit the proper radiator in these cars. I also added the high flow water pump, which is only offered on C4's with this heat problem, and a push fan with manuel switch (haven't needed it so far). Temps running down the road in 98 degree Texas heat, 182 ! Sitting in traffic, 195 or less, as I said, haven't used the push fan yet.
Okay, now this old man feels good about cruising in this machine. Everything I did cost under $250, well worth the money ! So you guys still running 220-225, you don't have to be just because Chevy dropped the ball on these cars. Stick a S-10, 4 cylinder truck radiator in a Vette, What were they thinking ???
Thanks for all the help from everybody on this subject, now anyone know about these 700R automatics ?
Thanks again,
Claybird49
I went through the same thing you went through with your temps. running up to 235 degrees. I too am an old school fart and it used to be when the temp hit 210 we would shut the car down off and run a garden hose on it to bring it down. I changed out the low coolant sensor as it flashed a couple of times and then changed out the anti-freeze using Prestone with a 70/30 mix using distilled water. I live in Az and have used a radar gun on our asphalt and have recorded temps on the asphalt @145-150 degrees. There is no where for the hot air to dissipate to as rain out here seems to be non existent. One other thing you might do if you still think you are having problems is a a product called "Water Weter" which can be purchased at any NAPA store. My car runs around 215-220 which I can live with. The fans are not designed to kick on until 226 degrees and I run a 195 thermostat. You are ok with temps as high as 235 however I really watch the gauge when it gets that high. Getting caught in traffic here can really heat your Vette up (85-88's) but no harm is done. But I share the same concerns as you, but being old school that's how we learned. Good luck!
Tommy
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Claybird49
I had asked advice on my C4 running what I thought was hot, 220-225 and was told by several that those temps. were normal. I'm old school and with that said, anything over 210 is time to get out and see whats wrong. So, okay, these Vettes ran that hot, doesn't make it normal. After pulling what Chevy called a radiator, I found that they had at least left plenty of room to fit the proper radiator in these cars. I also added the high flow water pump, which is only offered on C4's with this heat problem, and a push fan with manuel switch (haven't needed it so far). Temps running down the road in 98 degree Texas heat, 182 ! Sitting in traffic, 195 or less, as I said, haven't used the push fan yet.
Okay, now this old man feels good about cruising in this machine. Everything I did cost under $250, well worth the money ! So you guys still running 220-225, you don't have to be just because Chevy dropped the ball on these cars. Stick a S-10, 4 cylinder truck radiator in a Vette, What were they thinking ???
Thanks for all the help from everybody on this subject, now anyone know about these 700R automatics ?
Thanks again,
Claybird49
Which radiator did you you choose to replace the small one? Thanks for any information, I have just flushed and put in fresh coolant but am also in Texas just West of Houston, I even avoid those times of day with the heavier traffic because I worry about the temp getting out of hand if I am sitting to long, been just sticking to the back roads I know I will keep moving on, my C4 is not my daily driver but it would be nice to be able to head into town without worrying about some bumper to bumper and me looking for escape routes. Thanks again,,yes I am a nOOB, 62 yrs. old but this is my first C4 , love the car..
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 04:52 AM
  #23  
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I've run a 160deg T-stat in my '88s for 14yrs with great results. They easily passed the OH E-check, built more HP at the strip and produce plenty of heat in winter driving.
Since cruzin temps never rise above 175deg F the ECM never calls for EGR==another plus for lower engine temps.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 06:30 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
I've run a 160deg T-stat in my '88s for 14yrs with great results. They easily passed the OH E-check, built more HP at the strip and produce plenty of heat in winter driving.
Since cruzin temps never rise above 175deg F the ECM never calls for EGR==another plus for lower engine temps.
So you just change the thermostat only? The garage I deal with told me if I did that my check engine light would keep coming on, I was also thinking about a manual switch for the fan but he told me that would cause the check engine light to come as well. I trust the info from this forum actually more than I trust a work on em all mechanic with no disrespect intended but the guys on here specialize in the C4, am ol skool myself so when she starts creeping past 210 I am looking for a way out to get her moving again, thanks for any info, you guys are stand up..cheers
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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Typical day here in AZ when it's 108 degrees and up running the A/C. Here's the gauge before shutting the car off in my garage. Exactly why I won't drive it in the summer during the day. Early morning or after dark only. Without the A/C running I run 200-220 at red lights.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 11:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by C4in mesa
Typical day here in AZ when it's 108 degrees and up running the A/C. Here's the gauge before shutting the car off in my garage. Exactly why I won't drive it in the summer during the day. Early morning or after dark only. Without the A/C running I run 200-220 at red lights.
Wow that's pretty hot! But how about the oil temp? What is the safe temperature for that?
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by C4in mesa
Typical day here in AZ when it's 108 degrees and up running the A/C. Here's the gauge before shutting the car off in my garage. Exactly why I won't drive it in the summer during the day. Early morning or after dark only. Without the A/C running I run 200-220 at red lights.
cleaned the radiator lately? That's pretty warm
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #28  
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The entire system is new as of 12,000 miles ago. Not a leaf or any other debris. Until you drive around on streets that have a surface temperature of 150-160 degrees it's hard for you to understand. In the winter my operating Temps are 180. As for the oil temperature, I called Castrol and they told me not to run a oil temperature of 300 for more than 20-30 minutes. Shut it off and let it cool. I change the oil at 2500 miles and this next one I'm switching to Mobil 1. Reason I've not used synthetic yet is because all I can find is 10W-30 or 5W. I prefer 20W-50.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pmcnabb
So you just change the thermostat only? The garage I deal with told me if I did that my check engine light would keep coming on, I was also thinking about a manual switch for the fan but he told me that would cause the check engine light to come as well. I trust the info from this forum actually more than I trust a work on em all mechanic with no disrespect intended but the guys on here specialize in the C4, am ol skool myself so when she starts creeping past 210 I am looking for a way out to get her moving again, thanks for any info, you guys are stand up..cheers
All they did on my 94 LT-1 was put in a 160 deg. T-stat, and set the fans to come on at 185
NO problems with the check engine light...I haven't seen it above 200 since they did the work!
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
As we've learned here, the Gen I engine runs "hot" to work with emissions control.
Just curious, why only the 87-89?
The L98 shares model years from 85-90? And the radiators are all the same.

If you really want to see everyone stirred up, start a thread on oil.

Ha ha, oil huh ? Don't know why it's suppose to be only those years ? Just what I've been hearing and the high volume water pumps were only offered for those years. Hell, I could be wrong. Chevy actually might have fixed the problem, usually takes them a few years to resolve things like this. Spent a lot of time with General Motors products ! But I know one thing, if you've ever seen one of these radiators, you'd swap it out too !!!! Just too easy not to !
Have a good one !
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:27 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rogergcam
All they did on my 94 LT-1 was put in a 160 deg. T-stat, and set the fans to come on at 185
NO problems with the check engine light...I haven't seen it above 200 since they did the work!
How do you change the fan temp? I have an '86 if that makes any difference.

The reason I ask is that I have an engine ping that happens under load at temps above 200.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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The L83 x-fires run a bit hot too. My '84 runs normally at 195 but if I'm sitting idling it raises to 220 before the fan turns on and will cycle between 200 and 220 all day (ok, an exaggeration, I've never let it idle more than 20 minutes ). And yes, that's exactly how they were designed to meet the new federal emission standards in '84. Should it effect the engine life? No, not if you use decent oil and maintain your cooling system properly.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PSU69
How do you change the fan temp? I have an '86 if that makes any difference.

The reason I ask is that I have an engine ping that happens under load at temps above 200.
There are several temp switches, my fan comes on at 170 degrees and my push fan is manuel. 170 is recommended for big radiators and after market apps. I'm still learning about all of this. My engine made all kinds of sounds that I didn't like when it was running 220+. Ping could be timing, gas, etc. See if anyone else has the same ping.
All I'm saying and have been saying is your vette does not have to run at those temps, cooler engine = longer life, period ! 185 beats 220 any day. Don't really know what everyone is arguring about ??? Run cool or run hot, your choice.
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PSU69
How do you change the fan temp? I have an '86 if that makes any difference.

The reason I ask is that I have an engine ping that happens under load at temps above 200.
several ways....tune it/ change temp sensor/ or put in a simple manual switch....if you have 1 fan...if you have a fan on the a/c, put in a dble switch....they sell the kits, but any grounded switch at a hardware store will do....
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Old Jul 22, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PSU69
How do you change the fan temp? I have an '86 if that makes any difference.

The reason I ask is that I have an engine ping that happens under load at temps above 200.
The shop reprogrammed the computer to get them to come on at a lower temp.

Before the reprogramming. I had a switch so I could manually turn them on. The last owner had wired around the two fan relays, with a switch next to the steering column.thumbs:

This was done on my 94 LT-1.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by PSU69
How do you change the fan temp? I have an '86 if that makes any difference.

The reason I ask is that I have an engine ping that happens under load at temps above 200.
If you're hearing a ping you might need higher octane fuel or your knock sensor may be malfunctioning.

As for cooler=longer life, I'm not sure that equation can be supported by any data, at least not at the operating temperature ranges these engines normally run. About the only thing running cooler will do is provide some small additional margin against overheating should your cooling system fail (possibly at the expense of lower efficiency and higher CO emissions).
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fredd1
If you're hearing a ping you might need higher octane fuel or your knock sensor may be malfunctioning.

As for cooler=longer life, I'm not sure that equation can be supported by any data, at least not at the operating temperature ranges these engines normally run. About the only thing running cooler will do is provide some small additional margin against overheating should your cooling system fail (possibly at the expense of lower efficiency and higher CO emissions).
I'd like to here what some other members have to say about the data thing ! I have never heard so much arguing over heat before ? My first SB I built was in 1966 and 150 engines later, I've never had one operate over 200, ever ! Maybe it just doesn't get that hot in New Jersey ??? lol Guess I'm just set in my ways but no one out there is gonna convince me that 220-225 is a normal range for any SBC . Especally considering it's so easy and basicly inexpensive to cool it down ! Chevy is calling it a normal range because they're not gonna admit they put a piece of crap radiator in there best selling car of all time, their Corvette! Does make ya wonder why they left enough room to install a proper one ??? And thats the name of that tune !
None of this matters to me anymore anyway, I'm very happy with my upgrades and operating temps now !
Good night America and thank you for your time !
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rogergcam
All they did on my 94 LT-1 was put in a 160 deg. T-stat, and set the fans to come on at 185
NO problems with the check engine light...I haven't seen it above 200 since they did the work!
I will look into, thanks for the reply
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fredd1
If you're hearing a ping you might need higher octane fuel or your knock sensor may be malfunctioning.

As for cooler=longer life, I'm not sure that equation can be supported by any data, at least not at the operating temperature ranges these engines normally run. About the only thing running cooler will do is provide some small additional margin against overheating should your cooling system fail (possibly at the expense of lower efficiency and higher CO emissions).
I don't want to hijack this thread with a ping issue. I just thought heat may affect the pinging. FWIW, I run hi-test and retarded the timing.
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Old Jul 23, 2014 | 01:09 PM
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I agree that 220-225 deg.F isn't the normal operating temp. for these engines since the standard equipment thermostat is 195, but it's not unusual to have coolant temps increase to 220-225 during prolonged idling under hot conditions without damage to the engine. Normal operating temps are 190 to 200 with oil temps generally about 10-15 deg. cooler (at least that's the readings I see on my L83). Since engine life is a function of wear which depends largely on oil viscosity, oil temps. are the most critical measure when gaging engine longevity. Most modern multi-viscosity motor oils can tolerate these temperature excursions without seriously impairing their performance or the service life of the engine. Maybe we should start a new thread on oil temps and engine wear .
(BTW, it's 90F with a heat index near 100F here today in central NJ).
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