Hi guys I have a 86 and it gets hot when it gets over 80 degrees outside. Can't drive in traffic at all climbs to over 245 degrees. I have tried a lot of things bigger radiator, edelbrock high performance water pump, two fans sucking air and one fan blowing. I just watched a Jay Leno utube and he talks about a coolant called Evans. They claim it boils like 375 and good down to -40. There is no water so it won't corrode your engine and it last forever. Has anybody tried this stuff?

 

If your car gets to 245 F when going down the open road you have a serious cooling system problem. If it happens in heavy traffic you still have a problem. If you have a bigger radiator, high flow water pump and extra fans, and they come on when they are supposed to, which should be around 229 F, then I would suspect your gauge is inaccurate. These cars should run around 200 F while going down the open road. In traffic they will heat up as there is no air flow through the radiator until the fans turn on.
What is the source of information about the temperature? Is it the gauge on the dash and has the high temperature been confirmed by an independent measuring device?

 

First, do a cooling system pressure test then, do a cooling system flush, check/replace water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and hoses.

Replacing with heavy duty radiators and different coolant will not solve your problem permanently.

 

Break the problem down into four sequencial steps. (diagnose each. don't just guess and/or throw parts at it)

1. Wrong Information
- How do you know the temps your seeing are accurate? I use a IR temp gun to verify rad temp where the engine outlet hose connects to the rad. Generally the rad fins will measure within 5-10deg (F) of what your seeing in the dash gauge **when the stat is open**
I set my fan *on* and *high speed on* this way. I've done many cars this way and it works well. (my mustang = 3-5deg cooler than the gauge shows)

2. Temp regulation problem
- Is the t-stat operating like it should? (test in water pot on stove)
- Does it open at the proper temp?
- Does it open all the way? (at least 3/8" / 10mm)

3. Coolant flow, flow rate, and pressure
- Is there a blockage in the heater circuit?
- Is there blockage in the block? (sediment or air pocket)
- Is there blockage in the rad?
- Does the system hold at least 14psi?
- Is the t-stat stuck open (This will usually take a longer time to get up to normal temp.. and then won't cool off because the coolant doesn't pass through the rad slow enough to cool off)

4. Inadequate air flow
- Blocked airflow path (debris)
- Fans turning wrong way

 

Read the STICKY at the top of this page FIRST.
Then go out to the garage and inspect your car.
If then you can't figure out the problem, listen to all this wonderful advise.

 

money's on a stuck t stat...doesn't get that hot in Milwaukee..hope he posts result........coolant threads can be entertaining...

 

I did rebuild the motor bored .030 over so the heads and block have been boiled clean. Like I said its a new pump and radiator both over sized. I also pulled the the stat and run it without. I also turned all fans on all the time. The engine will cool down on the open road. There is no grill opening they expect the scoop under the car the get air from there. I think this was a very sad idea. The tar on the road can get very hot and that is going to cool that engine. My car was very low in front. The air scoop was one inch off the ground. It scrapped just on bumps in the road. I purchased some coil over shocks just to get it up so it quit rubbing. The over heating did get a little better. I also would like to say the ride is like a whole different car. The car rides like a new caddy. Everybody with one of theses ruff riding cars should spend the $1500 and you'll be very happy. Back to the over heating. I'm going to try a new water pump,I was reading about how the pump run counter clock wise. Maybe I have the wrong pump or like someone said pumping so fast it don't get time to cool. Any other ideas out there if it makes sense I might try it. I'm real close to taking out the fog and running lights and make a grill opening.

 

You need to do a full run down of the system for us and what you have done with it to fix the cooling. You have a problem somewhere.

You need to reinstall the thermostat, 195 is stock, 180 would be fine. 160 might be a bit much for Wisconsin.

Fans running all the time is detrimental to cooling at speed.

 

I just did the full run down. You can read it just above your post Vader.

 

Vader was probly typing at the same time you were so he didnt see your run down before he hit "post"

Yeah something isnt right. Follow the advice listed above. Do check the rotation of the water pump and make sure the impeller is tight on the shaft. I will add that its possible you may have an air pocket. Try filling your car on an angle with the rad fill cap much higher than normal. With the vehicle cold, remove the cap and wait for the thermo to open. Verify its open by feeling for a hot upper rad hose. Bring the engine revs to about 2K rpm and maintain, then fill the rad up, capping while reving. Always use distilled water with your antifreeze in the proper proportions for your climate. Distilled water wont corrode like tap water and antifreeze needs water in it to work right.

Well there is a couple of more things, keep us posted and we will solve it together.

Good luck!

 

Not the motor, I don't care about that, everything you've done with the cooling system.

You've inspected that the stat is opening, did you burp the system? Have you insured the WP is not leaking? Have you flushed the radiator? Have you cleared the space between it and the condensor? Are all hoses in good condition?

 

You say it's a new radiator. Any chance there was a plug in one of the inlet/outlet openings that just may be your problem??

 

I know it gets very hot in traffic but on the highway it should run cooler. You mentioned your car was very low- did you remove the front chin spoiler because that will help with airflow when driving but not in traffic