Rotors ?
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: weems va
Rotors ?
Im replacing rotors and hub bearings on front of my 93 this fall. Anyone have a favorite? I didnt realize there were that many different names out there. Ive used timpkin in the past. But not sure on rotors. Dave
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Park City Utah
Everyone has a favortie, for different reasons. What are your criteria?
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: weems va
Everyone has a favortie, for different reasons. What are your criteria?
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
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From: weems va
I like the look of slotted rotors but not sure if i need them. Although they dont seem very expensive.
Team Owner
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From: Park City Utah
No but there are variations in thickness from premium ones to cheapies. Most stores don't make any of the parts they sell. The all buy from the same vendors, mostly. I know that the Autosone rotors I buy for my truck are cheap; they're thinner than stock ones, lighter, probably not balanced as well etc. But for the truck, they're good enough. I am confident that if I went w/the same grade rotor on the 'Vette, I'd warp them on track days.
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From: SANTA CRUZ CA
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From: weems va
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No but there are variations in thickness from premium ones to cheapies. Most stores don't make any of the parts they sell. The all buy from the same vendors, mostly. I know that the Autosone rotors I buy for my truck are cheap; they're thinner than stock ones, lighter, probably not balanced as well etc. But for the truck, they're good enough. I am confident that if I went w/the same grade rotor on the 'Vette, I'd warp them on track days.
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From: weems va
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Iowa
If you are just driving the car on the street put whatever you want on it and don't look back. If you are pouring heat energy into them you will have to determine how much and how long you want the rotor to last. Just my .02
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 208
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From: Lawrenceville GA
Just bought a set of BLACK drilled and slotted off Ebay for $90.00
with free shipping. They look strong and after 2 weeks no problems. I think I paid $250 for the previous set and couldn't get anyone around here to turn them. If u like I can provide more info or just search
with free shipping. They look strong and after 2 weeks no problems. I think I paid $250 for the previous set and couldn't get anyone around here to turn them. If u like I can provide more info or just search
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: weems va
Just bought a set of BLACK drilled and slotted off Ebay for $90.00
with free shipping. They look strong and after 2 weeks no problems. I think I paid $250 for the previous set and couldn't get anyone around here to turn them. If u like I can provide more info or just search
with free shipping. They look strong and after 2 weeks no problems. I think I paid $250 for the previous set and couldn't get anyone around here to turn them. If u like I can provide more info or just search
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Park City Utah
How so? What are your driving patterns.
In my frist post, I illustrated two options, for two totally different usage criteria in order to show cost effective solutions for a range of use. What are yours? Like "Deakins" said, if you are just cruising/driving on the street, any rotor will likely work fine, so durability and heat management wouldn't be one of your criteria. Cross that off the list, and save some $$.
What criteria is after that? Cost and looks. How important is looks to you? Color, holes, slots, dimples etc. Do you want them (for looks)? If yes, find good priced ones that "look good". If no, then get cheap ones, paint the hat and cooling fins high temp black and put 'em on.
In my frist post, I illustrated two options, for two totally different usage criteria in order to show cost effective solutions for a range of use. What are yours? Like "Deakins" said, if you are just cruising/driving on the street, any rotor will likely work fine, so durability and heat management wouldn't be one of your criteria. Cross that off the list, and save some $$.
What criteria is after that? Cost and looks. How important is looks to you? Color, holes, slots, dimples etc. Do you want them (for looks)? If yes, find good priced ones that "look good". If no, then get cheap ones, paint the hat and cooling fins high temp black and put 'em on.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 19, 2014 at 11:07 AM.
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From: weems va
How so? What are your driving patterns.
In my frist post, I illustrated two options, for two totally different usage criteria in order to show cost effective solutions for a range of use. What are yours? Like
eaking" said, if you are just cruising/driving on the street, any rotor will likely work fine, so durability and heat management wouldn't be one of your criteria. Cross that off the list, and save some $$.
What criteria is after that? Cost and looks. How important is looks to you? Color, holes, slots, dimples etc. Do you want them (for looks)? If yes, find good priced ones that "look good". If no, then get cheap ones, paint the hat and cooling fins high temp black and put 'em on.
In my frist post, I illustrated two options, for two totally different usage criteria in order to show cost effective solutions for a range of use. What are yours? Like
eaking" said, if you are just cruising/driving on the street, any rotor will likely work fine, so durability and heat management wouldn't be one of your criteria. Cross that off the list, and save some $$. What criteria is after that? Cost and looks. How important is looks to you? Color, holes, slots, dimples etc. Do you want them (for looks)? If yes, find good priced ones that "look good". If no, then get cheap ones, paint the hat and cooling fins high temp black and put 'em on.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
In that case *I* would buy a cheap rotor, and it will work fine like on my truck. In my experience plated rotors maintain their coating for "daily driving" pretty well (on the "hat" part of the rotor). First track day burns the coating right off, and then they rust after that.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2013
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Rotors
Everyone has a favortie, for different reasons. What are your criteria?
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
For my Silverado, I love the cheapest rotors I can buy! The $20 ea specials from Autozone, or where ever. Made in china. Junk. Why? B/c the truck is a stick, and the way I drive it, I can go 80k on a set of pads, then change the rotors and pads together. Cheap.
For my 'Vette, which I use for track days, I want a high quality, thick/heavy rotor that won't warp and can absorb some heat. At the same time, I'm not rich, so I don't go down the boutique road with aluminum hats/2 piece rotors either. I buy NAPA premium quality rotors for the 'vette and have had good luck w/them.
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Epping NH