I'd start here
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t.../photo_25.html

 

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...ump-drive-gear

 

http://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-lt...e-again-74869/
Maybe the cam's Walk-in
I don't think you said about how many miles on the cam? or how old it is?

 

http://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-lt...ve-gear-65945/

 

Here is another one that pulled his Intake and he shows photos of the gear that left metal in his oil too. Another guy posted about shimming the gear and adding a groove to aid in oiling to the gear
http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-mo...re-pics-2.html

Good luck man. I wouldn't run it and would pull the Intake and take a look. If its chewed up. I would also pour diesel fuel down the gear hole and lots of it to try and flush the pan and get the best magnetic drain plug you can find. Then a couple of oil filters and 10 qts of oil and only run it for a minute and dump it. So as to flush as much as you can out of there

 

Thanks Cudamax, good info. At this point, I guess the first thing to do is securing a place where I can actually work on it.

Chaos gave a great offer, and we need to meet up sometime. But I'm not sure how long it's going to take for me to get the parts together and what not. I just don't think it would be fair to let him put up with some strangers car in his garage for God knows how long.

Other unknowns are, how long this has been going on? If it is a result of the recent cooling system issue, then the bearings may be okay, but it could have developed over the last few thousand miles, or maybe even before that. I hadn't really analized the oil in the last few changes, so it could've been going on then. This would mean the bearings are probably full of the stuff.

 

Offer still stands... I tried to call you but got a wrong #, probably my fault. I have been working on getting My car done a cross threaded an exhaust bolt on the head last night.

Hopefully I can tap it and finish up otherwise there will be two cars tore down in there .

If I have to pull the head the same ones are not going back on.

 

Okay, so whether this is a localized problem or not, i.e. oil pump drive gear, I just can't help but think a rebuild is due at 163K miles.

My real problem, other than immediate cash flow, is deciding what direction to go. The idea of having a C4 that can compete numbers wise with it's more modern siblings is awful tempting. But there is that nostalgic side of me, that says it would be kind of cool just to put it back in stock form. Or as close as I could get, considering the availibilty of parts.

 

I hear you, I'm not sure I would have gone with an LS1 If I had an LT4. Maybe you should look up some prices and see what come out cheaper in the long run.

 

Most of the thought, honestly, is finance driven. I'm not even real sure to where to look for an LS engine. Then, if I found one I could afford, it would probably need to be refreshed as well.

Or I could buy some time buy getting this to drive in the meantime:



http://www.carsforsale.com/used-cars...n-tx-237903263

Nah, the last thing I need is more old car problems with a payment attached.

 

I took my time and ended up with hell of an engine. Its not hard to find a running LS engine. On the other hand if you are trying to go as cheap as possible new bearing rings and seals and your engine is new again. I would call a machine shop and get an estimate on rebuilding yours. There is a guy down the street that had a built LT1 SB sitting in his garage for years now. Maybe he will part with it cheap.

 

I kind of mispoke in my previous post, I meant to say the decision is value driven. It's not that I want to go as cheap as possible, though the budget is tight depending on how much time I can stand to have the car down.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/es...make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet

This is an initial look into some of the engine kits. To go with a .030 bore and 3.75 stroke isn't that much more on some of these kits, if I stay with the cast crank. It's the forged cranks that really drive up the price.

As far as the head and valve train go, it really depends on a couple of things. The HotCam is nice, but I'm not positve as to the condition of the hotcam I have. If the gear is bad, or a lobe is getting wiped. I imagine the rockers are near the end of service. Replacing those requires new studs as well as the factory spec units are no longer avail. I would have the heads redone with a port and polish anyway.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet

I'm thinking, all things considered, it might just be better to go ahead and get the kit, then if the cam is good, either sell it and keep the new one, or sell the new one since that would bring more $.

Then considering this list, perhpas the LSx swap is the way to go. I mean after all the hoses, vacuum parts, fasteners, and small pieces go in, I bet I could have a low mile LS1 or LS6 for that.

Still the question is what do I really want? Keeping in mind that this car needs work to the suspension, u joints, and of course weather strip, and few interior pieces, seats, door switch, pke module, window switch.

Decisions, decisions

 

If she's not your DD, go LSX.
5.3s can be had on the cheap, and so can iron 6.0s for that matter. (some 6.0s had 345 to 360 horses.) You can get the entire shooting match (wiring, accessories, computer, throttle pedal, exhaust manifolds) for the 5.3 well under a thousand..usually 500 to 700ish, and the 6.0 can be had for anywhere from 1,000 to 2000.

You can even get pretty good deals on the Aluminum 6.2 that is found in the GMC Denalis, Sierras, and Caddies. Which is good from 380 to 400 horse out of the box. Obviously the Aluminum engine is a little harder to find than a 5.3 or iron 6.0 but they're out there, and they're fairly inexpensive. Usually cheaper than the aluminum LS1 and LS6.

 

yup, when I started looking at the cost of rebuilding my L98 knowing I could get a running LS engine for 2K made the difference.

 

anyone have any info on something like this...

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/4669501944.html

Oh, and please bear with me gentlemen. I know it seems like I'm jumping around a bit, but I'm just trying to learn what I can and make the smartest choice. Your help is appreciated, as most of you are smarter about this than I am.

 

And at 163K miles in my case, I don't think it matters if there's a factory LT4 in it. So, I'm not really married to the idea of keeping the LT4.

 

already stated looking.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-clas...r-forsale.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-clas...3-swapped.html

This one went fast but what a deal..

http://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-clas...-347-sale.html

 

Cut filter apart & inspect element also (a good machine can do this properly) take them the oil

 

Are there LS kits that link up with your 6 speed?

 

I know there is one to connect an older motor and a T56, so I would guess there is one for the inverse.