C4 Camshaft
Thanks,
Ray
Last edited by v8vette84; Oct 24, 2014 at 12:42 AM.
This is the Cam:
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Code=LTCAMSXFI
And this is it's specs:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1110&sb=0
I do realize that it mentions all the recommended components for the camshaft, but my question is what out of all those parts should I buy first to just start this project up before I go into a more advanced cam set up?
Last edited by rayou01; Oct 24, 2014 at 02:23 AM.
We aren't scoffing, or trying to impress you by baffling you with BS; just the opposite! I've been doing SBC buildups since the late 60s, and picking a cam is a comprehensive endeavor which doesn't suffer fools well, speaking from experience!
Case in point: That cam you linked to is designed for low/mid rpm (even lists the TPI motors as the targeted app.) The LT1 would be a less than ideal matchup: a "square peg in a round hole", i.e., the intake runner length is ALL WRONG for a TPI optimized cam...is my point.
A cam alone, speaking from experience, is not the way to go, unless it is a close fit to begin with, OR is part of a stepped approach to a specific plan (goal). With an end-game plan, ALL of the satellite components including lifters, springs, headers, rockers, etc, etc., come into focus.
SO! You see where v8vette84 and I are coming from: if you're only contemplating a cam swap and are simply inexperienced in such endeavors, no big deal (we all start somewhere - welcome to the hobby!). But, to select a cam and then ask "what else" throws a handful of red flags up! (Flags I have personal experience with, in my miss-spent youth!) Course we could be totally misunderstanding your question, I suppose. But, as it is, it seems (from your question alone) you may have the cart before the horse, and we'd hate to see that happen.
You have roller tappets already, AND a short runner (LT1) intake motor. After choosing a goal, what else will be determined by the cam chosen to get you there (e.g., headers, springs, porting, etc, etc, etc...).
Lloyd Elliot has a package using the GM Hot Cam which will bring the LT1 up into the 400+ hp range, as one example. But, that is predicated on one goal. Your goal may be different. See where we're coming from?
P.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Oct 24, 2014 at 08:48 AM.
If you are dead set on a cam I would suggest the LT4 hot cam KIT. It comes with everything you need.
It is a great proven street cam.
We aren't scoffing, or trying to impress you by baffling you with BS; just the opposite! I've been doing SBC buildups since the late 60s, and picking a cam is a comprehensive endeavor which doesn't suffer fools well, speaking from experience!
Case in point: That cam you linked to is designed for low/mid rpm (even lists the TPI motors as the targeted app.) The LT1 would be a less than ideal matchup: a "square peg in a round hole", i.e., the intake runner length is ALL WRONG for a TPI optimized cam...is my point.
A cam alone, speaking from experience, is not the way to go, unless it is a close fit to begin with, OR is part of a stepped approach to a specific plan (goal). With an end-game plan, ALL of the satellite components including lifters, springs, headers, rockers, etc, etc., come into focus.
SO! You see where v8vette84 and I are coming from: if you're only contemplating a cam swap and are simply inexperienced in such endeavors, no big deal (we all start somewhere - welcome to the hobby!). But, to select a cam and then ask "what else" throws a handful of red flags up! (Flags I have personal experience with, in my miss-spent youth!) Course we could be totally misunderstanding your question, I suppose. But, as it is, it seems (from your question alone) you may have the cart before the horse, and we'd hate to see that happen.
You have roller tappets already, AND a short runner (LT1) intake motor. After choosing a goal, what else will be determined by the cam chosen to get you there (e.g., headers, springs, porting, etc, etc, etc...).
Lloyd Elliot has a package using the GM Hot Cam which will bring the LT1 up into the 400+ hp range, as one example. But, that is predicated on one goal. Your goal may be different. See where we're coming from?
P.
Thank you!
With the cam that I have (224*/224* @ 0.050", 0.528"/0.528" w/ 1.6 RR, 112* LSA) the car pulls very, very hard. Even though this is a flat tappet cam, this might relate to your selection some. This cam has a ton of low end torque, and a ton more of high end. This cam doesn't really start to give its full power until 4000 RPMs, although you can really feel it pick up at 3000 RPMs. This combination is very consistent all across the RPM band from 3000-6000 in regards to the way it pulls. Doesn't drop off and puts a big smile on my face. If I did not have my MSD ignition box with the rev limiter, the motor would probably blow because this thing just wants to keep going passed 6000.
This combination is very streetable, however it does have it's nasty side in some aspects. As far as the cam goes, I'd say it's perfect for a street car.
From some research that I have done online about rocker arm ratios, people have claimed that 1.6 rocker arms will be the equivalent of a cam that has to 2-4 degrees more of duration @ 0.050" lobe lift. I don't know how true that is, but it would put set up in the equivalency range of a 226*/226* - 228*/228* @ 0.050" camshaft.
There are some people that say they would choose more duration and more lift for my engine set up, and there are others that say I have a perfect combination. I would like to get a roller cam, but to be honest I'm sick and tired of working on it at this point lol.
For the RPMs that I'm shifting at (6000 RPMs), I think that this cam is perfect for my set up.
If you look at ZZ9 and ZZ409 cams, they are similar to mine in terms of duration, and they are used frequently in Miniram set ups with great success in terms of HP/torque output and 1/4 mile times.
I hope this helps with your cam selection.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Just saying bra!
Thank you!
I suggested Lloyd Elliot (as one) for your HOT CAM because he is a reputable LTx builder (among others) who understands what it takes to get the LT1 to 400+ crank hp; e.g., porting the LT1 intake, throttle body, and some head work is required, headers, and 1.6:1 roller rockers (all of which Lloyd (and some others) can do.)
There are some per-programmed ("canned") chips out there for sure. And, there may be some "canned" tunes out there for a specific modification package, like the HOT CAM upgrade (having specific ancillary upgrades attendant to those specific upgrade requirements.)
However, even within the realm of specific ancillary modifications accompanying the particulars of the choice of cam, a custom tune is far better in terms of overall performance! It truly optimizes the engine performance, assuring the best fuel economy, optimizes both closed and open loop modes, by identifying specific timing and fueling, etc, and even some other features can be addressed such as cooling fan operation, anti-backfire, and smoothing out overall driveability. This is especially true when choosing a unique package of specific upgrade dimensions (e.g., porting dimensions, etc.).
I guess what I'm trying to say is, unless you are very cognoscente of all these particulars, the most expeditious and successful path is to let a reputable shop, ont that has done many mods like the one you are ultimately interested in, at least specify what needs to be done and will work with you so that you can gain first had experience with as much of the details as you're competent and equipped to handle and perform. Then let the shop do the rest as needed. (Speaking from many years of experience with this hobby.)
One of the biggest ah HA! moments that drove all of what I'm saying home for me happened back in the early 70s. A little (former classmate) gal with a 340 cid Mopar in a ratty Duster and a Torqueflite (3-speed auto) with a smooth idle would - more times than not whoop the azz of many local hot-rodders. With NO reflection on you, but they too often installed a cam with little or nothing but recommendations from friends, or whomever. That was about the extent of their "engineering" (except for the obligatory huge Holly Double-pumper and LT headers with 2-1/4" primaries; the "cool" must have prerequisites to join to the saturday night gearheads in the corner parking lot!)
The fact you're asking questions shows me your on the right path. We all start from somewhere, and the leaning never ends - always someone who has discovered something new! I question using the forum for such a comprehensive answer to your very good question. In the end, perhaps you'll realize that the first step is picking a performance level and use in mind, and then go shopping for the parts and identifying the mods needed to get you there. Not the other way around.
Well, that's my two cents. Your mileage may vary...
Paul.
I have the same 93 LT1 car with the 6 speed, except mine has a (mistake) 3" B&B catback exhaust, MSD Gen1 Opti and SLP claw cold air intake.
I had the same idea of doing a cam, but looking at the additional components involved, maybe it is a better idea to do all the bolt on stuff first. After all, this would have to be done anyway to let the motor breathe anyway.
What are the next steps before opening the motor? Headers? (best ones for the buck?), larger throttle body? at what point should the custom tune come in?
I have this illogical obsessional fantasy of 400hp at the crank, so that is my motivation. I do take the car to the strip two or three times a year, but at heart, I am more of a "driver's education day" at the track kind of guy.
If anyone thinks I am hijacking, please let me know and I will start a separate thread.
Arman
I suggested Lloyd Elliot (as one) for your HOT CAM because he is a reputable LTx builder (among others) who understands what it takes to get the LT1 to 400+ crank hp; e.g., porting the LT1 intake, throttle body, and some head work is required, headers, and 1.6:1 roller rockers (all of which Lloyd (and some others) can do.)
There are some per-programmed ("canned") chips out there for sure. And, there may be some "canned" tunes out there for a specific modification package, like the HOT CAM upgrade (having specific ancillary upgrades attendant to those specific upgrade requirements.)
However, even within the realm of specific ancillary modifications accompanying the particulars of the choice of cam, a custom tune is far better in terms of overall performance! It truly optimizes the engine performance, assuring the best fuel economy, optimizes both closed and open loop modes, by identifying specific timing and fueling, etc, and even some other features can be addressed such as cooling fan operation, anti-backfire, and smoothing out overall driveability. This is especially true when choosing a unique package of specific upgrade dimensions (e.g., porting dimensions, etc.).
I guess what I'm trying to say is, unless you are very cognoscente of all these particulars, the most expeditious and successful path is to let a reputable shop, ont that has done many mods like the one you are ultimately interested in, at least specify what needs to be done and will work with you so that you can gain first had experience with as much of the details as you're competent and equipped to handle and perform. Then let the shop do the rest as needed. (Speaking from many years of experience with this hobby.)
One of the biggest ah HA! moments that drove all of what I'm saying home for me happened back in the early 70s. A little (former classmate) gal with a 340 cid Mopar in a ratty Duster and a Torqueflite (3-speed auto) with a smooth idle would - more times than not whoop the azz of many local hot-rodders. With NO reflection on you, but they too often installed a cam with little or nothing but recommendations from friends, or whomever. That was about the extent of their "engineering" (except for the obligatory huge Holly Double-pumper and LT headers with 2-1/4" primaries; the "cool" must have prerequisites to join to the saturday night gearheads in the corner parking lot!)
The fact you're asking questions shows me your on the right path. We all start from somewhere, and the leaning never ends - always someone who has discovered something new! I question using the forum for such a comprehensive answer to your very good question. In the end, perhaps you'll realize that the first step is picking a performance level and use in mind, and then go shopping for the parts and identifying the mods needed to get you there. Not the other way around.
Well, that's my two cents. Your mileage may vary...
Paul.
I have the same 93 LT1 car with the 6 speed, except mine has a (mistake) 3" B&B catback exhaust, MSD Gen1 Opti and SLP claw cold air intake.
I had the same idea of doing a cam, but looking at the additional components involved, maybe it is a better idea to do all the bolt on stuff first. After all, this would have to be done anyway to let the motor breathe anyway.
What are the next steps before opening the motor? Headers? (best ones for the buck?), larger throttle body? at what point should the custom tune come in?
I have this illogical obsessional fantasy of 400hp at the crank, so that is my motivation. I do take the car to the strip two or three times a year, but at heart, I am more of a "driver's education day" at the track kind of guy.
If anyone thinks I am hijacking, please let me know and I will start a separate thread.
Arman
There are different types of bolt on stuff that will affect how much HP and torque you make AND where you make it at (RPMs).















