Suspension Refresh
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 801
Likes: 31
Suspension Refresh
I have a 1991 ZR-1 with around 70,000 miles on the car. Overall the car runs and drives pretty well. The car is getting up there in age. My question is when certain components need to be replaced. My rear suspension bushings will need attention sooner than later since one bushing is damaged.
What is the normal service life for stock rubber bushings? (Control arms, sway bars, etc)
What is the normal service life for Balljoints on the front? (My boots appear to be exploded)
What is the normal service life or tie rod's?
I had a alignment done at the dealer a few months ago and they didn't mention anything looked odd or bad with the suspension. I just want to make sure everything is up to snuff.
What is the normal service life for stock rubber bushings? (Control arms, sway bars, etc)
What is the normal service life for Balljoints on the front? (My boots appear to be exploded)
What is the normal service life or tie rod's?
I had a alignment done at the dealer a few months ago and they didn't mention anything looked odd or bad with the suspension. I just want to make sure everything is up to snuff.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 8
rubber bushing are discontinued now,no way to find ,just aftermarket poly bushings.if you come to poly or urethane be prepared to a sharp and crisp ride but some squeaky noises too if not well lubricated .To check your ball joint and tie rod ,raise the wheel and pull it at 12-6 hours and 9-3 hours.if you feel a 5 mm play than these parts need to be changed,pay attention to what you buy,lot of junk China parts out there now,buy only Moog or Spicer or Timken if you need hub bearings...
Alberto-Italy
Alberto-Italy
Last edited by tunedport85inject; Nov 18, 2014 at 12:29 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
What do the bushing look like? Is there cracking around the edges? Do they look dry? At 70K and if the car hasn't been abused in terms of rough roads or lots of autocross and track uses, they should be OK.
Same with the ball joints. To check them, you need to get the front wheels off the ground and use a pry bar to check for movement. Any movement will indicate some wear and should be replaced. Boots that are dry and cracked allow grease to flow out so there is a possibility of the ball joints not having enough grease to keep them lubricated.
The rubber boots can be replaced, but it requires the ball joint nut to be removed and the upper ball joint disconnected from the control arm and the lower one disconnected from the knuckle. At that poit it may make sense just to replace all 4. You can get boots that are poly and they will hold up.
The outer tie rod ends are relatively easy to replace. The inner ones are more difficult. Is the steering OK? No wandering, no jerky feel or noisy when cold? A replacement rack would be the easiest way to solve those issues and you get new inner tie rod ends too.
Hubs can be another wear item. Raise the front of the car and grab the wheels at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and push/pull. Any play at all means the hubs are shot. There is no adjustment on them
Personally, I like Moog components for ball joints and tie rod ends. For hubs, it can be a crap shoot. I have had good luck with SKF hubs on my '87 but the car is pretty much a dedicated autocross and track day car. I run Hoosier slicks so the hubs take a beating. What's interesting is that the car still has the original ball joints and they show no signs of wear at 77K miles and 5 years of autocross and track use.
Same with the ball joints. To check them, you need to get the front wheels off the ground and use a pry bar to check for movement. Any movement will indicate some wear and should be replaced. Boots that are dry and cracked allow grease to flow out so there is a possibility of the ball joints not having enough grease to keep them lubricated.
The rubber boots can be replaced, but it requires the ball joint nut to be removed and the upper ball joint disconnected from the control arm and the lower one disconnected from the knuckle. At that poit it may make sense just to replace all 4. You can get boots that are poly and they will hold up.
The outer tie rod ends are relatively easy to replace. The inner ones are more difficult. Is the steering OK? No wandering, no jerky feel or noisy when cold? A replacement rack would be the easiest way to solve those issues and you get new inner tie rod ends too.
Hubs can be another wear item. Raise the front of the car and grab the wheels at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and push/pull. Any play at all means the hubs are shot. There is no adjustment on them
Personally, I like Moog components for ball joints and tie rod ends. For hubs, it can be a crap shoot. I have had good luck with SKF hubs on my '87 but the car is pretty much a dedicated autocross and track day car. I run Hoosier slicks so the hubs take a beating. What's interesting is that the car still has the original ball joints and they show no signs of wear at 77K miles and 5 years of autocross and track use.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 801
Likes: 31
What do the bushing look like? Is there cracking around the edges? Do they look dry? At 70K and if the car hasn't been abused in terms of rough roads or lots of autocross and track uses, they should be OK.
Same with the ball joints. To check them, you need to get the front wheels off the ground and use a pry bar to check for movement. Any movement will indicate some wear and should be replaced. Boots that are dry and cracked allow grease to flow out so there is a possibility of the ball joints not having enough grease to keep them lubricated.
The rubber boots can be replaced, but it requires the ball joint nut to be removed and the upper ball joint disconnected from the control arm and the lower one disconnected from the knuckle. At that poit it may make sense just to replace all 4. You can get boots that are poly and they will hold up.
The outer tie rod ends are relatively easy to replace. The inner ones are more difficult. Is the steering OK? No wandering, no jerky feel or noisy when cold? A replacement rack would be the easiest way to solve those issues and you get new inner tie rod ends too.
Hubs can be another wear item. Raise the front of the car and grab the wheels at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and push/pull. Any play at all means the hubs are shot. There is no adjustment on them
Personally, I like Moog components for ball joints and tie rod ends. For hubs, it can be a crap shoot. I have had good luck with SKF hubs on my '87 but the car is pretty much a dedicated autocross and track day car. I run Hoosier slicks so the hubs take a beating. What's interesting is that the car still has the original ball joints and they show no signs of wear at 77K miles and 5 years of autocross and track use.
Same with the ball joints. To check them, you need to get the front wheels off the ground and use a pry bar to check for movement. Any movement will indicate some wear and should be replaced. Boots that are dry and cracked allow grease to flow out so there is a possibility of the ball joints not having enough grease to keep them lubricated.
The rubber boots can be replaced, but it requires the ball joint nut to be removed and the upper ball joint disconnected from the control arm and the lower one disconnected from the knuckle. At that poit it may make sense just to replace all 4. You can get boots that are poly and they will hold up.
The outer tie rod ends are relatively easy to replace. The inner ones are more difficult. Is the steering OK? No wandering, no jerky feel or noisy when cold? A replacement rack would be the easiest way to solve those issues and you get new inner tie rod ends too.
Hubs can be another wear item. Raise the front of the car and grab the wheels at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and push/pull. Any play at all means the hubs are shot. There is no adjustment on them
Personally, I like Moog components for ball joints and tie rod ends. For hubs, it can be a crap shoot. I have had good luck with SKF hubs on my '87 but the car is pretty much a dedicated autocross and track day car. I run Hoosier slicks so the hubs take a beating. What's interesting is that the car still has the original ball joints and they show no signs of wear at 77K miles and 5 years of autocross and track use.
