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Sorry, but I just cannot recommend these headers. Perhaps I just got a bad pair. Doesn't change my mind or opinion. They have been nothing but trouble trying to install. Cannot get a hex key to fit on #8, #5, or #7. Why? Because the pipe will not allow it. You will need a hex key with a curve about 1 1/2" from the bolt. On #8, not only is the pipe in the way, but so to is the egr pipe. Guess they didn't bother to check the alignment of the holes, bolts, pipes. And spark plugs...forget it. Cannot get a socket on #5... for the same reason you can't get a hex key on the bolt. PIPE IS IN THE WAY. Don't know about passenger side because I have not even tried yet. I won't rag on the exhaust pipes, though I can. As in, they don't fit either. All in all, I am sorry I made this purchase. So, my opinion of Melrose headers...do not buy.
I have Melrose on my 96 lt4 and had no trouble. but I can see your point. I used threaded rods in each hole with a hollow metal sleeve over it cut to length where it's easiest to get a wrench on it.
i'll see if I have a pic to show you. I've never had a header leak with the Melrose.
here's an old pic I found. I cut a slot it the threaded rod with my cutoff wheel so I could screw or unscrew the threaded rods with a screwdriver. works perfect and easy to get headers on and off.
Wishing now I had used studs instead of the bolts. I guess if the engine was out of the car they'd install easier. But that's not how they're advertised. What bothers me most is that I emailed them some questions I had before buying and they just blew it off. Big dummy went and bought them anyway. Live and learn.
here's an old pic I found. I cut a slot it the threaded rod with my cutoff wheel so I could screw or unscrew the threaded rods with a screwdriver. works perfect and easy to get headers on and off.
The bolts pictured went in with no problem. The problem I'm having is with#8 and#5 on the other side. On #8 they located the egr pipe so that it partially obstructs the bolt. On #5 the exhaust pipe itself is partially obstructing the bolt. Had to grind down a hex wrench to get it to go straight in.
here's an old pic I found. I cut a slot it the threaded rod with my cutoff wheel so I could screw or unscrew the threaded rods with a screwdriver. works perfect and easy to get headers on and off.
That is really nice by the way. Would like to hear a little about what you've done here. Those covers...Awesome!
just painted the stock valve covers, asr cover, fuel rail covers, valve covers and intake. delteq ignition. 58mm tb. I just got thru pressure washing the motor when I took that pic. one of the benefits of the delteq ignition.
It's not the headers, it's the bolts your using.Allen head bolts are the worst for installing headers...Also , making headers that you can use a socket on every bolt is very hard....ARP hex head bolts would make them much easier to install....You need to use a wrench on the ARP bolts listed below...Most of the comments I have heard on this forum about Melrose headers have been positive...WW
Well, are you ready for some more NEGATIVE comments? First off, it's not the bolts. It's the way the tubes and pipes are welded. On the passenger side, the egr pipe is welded right where you need to access the bolt. Don't have a straight shot at the bolt. Have to come at it from an angle. Except, you can't insert a hex key/socket or whatever else you want to use at an angle. Only way was to cut a hex key to fit and insert it into a 5/16 socket. Then tighten until there's no more room, because the tube is there OVER the hole the bolt goes into. Oh yeah. The egr pipe. It's there. There are holes. But there not tapped. So you can't use the bolts that came out of the pipe. You have to use longer bolts with nuts underneath the flange. That was fun! And while I'm at it, the AIR pipe on the passenger side does not line up with the AIR pipe that the hose clamps to. It now requires a hose with a 90 degree bend. So now I have to find a section of rubber hose I can bend. These headers have been nothing but trouble. I CANNOT recommend. Sorry, but that's just the way it's been my experience. And I'm not even mentioning the exhaust pipes that came with their "Bolt On Exhaust". They don't fit either. But they are made by another company, so not the fault of Melrose. My recommendation...Do not buy. TPIS. Hooker. BB. Anyone else.
BTW, did I mention I can no longer get a socket on #5 spark plug. Is that because of the bolts also?
It's not the headers, it's the bolts your using.Allen head bolts are the worst for installing headers...Also , making headers that you can use a socket on every bolt is very hard....ARP hex head bolts would make them much easier to install....You need to use a wrench on the ARP bolts listed below...Most of the comments I have heard on this forum about Melrose headers have been positive...WW
Yes, this would have helped. Studs would have helped also. But the bolts that come with the headers are suppose to fit. And they would but for the clearance issue on two of the bolts. The bolt on #8 next to the firewall I expected to be a nightmare. But it went on fairly easily once I had the right tool. A 11" long 1/4" drive socket wrench. With a 5/16 socket and a cut down hex key. Swivel head. Went in easily. Was surprised actually.
with my headers, I have to use a wrench, not a socket, on one plug. Poor design. (Not Melrose headers)
One gets the feeling they, the manufacturer's, are expecting that we have the engine out of the car. Were that the case, these headers would have gone on without a hitch. Except for the AIR problem. I actually blame our government for that. But the pipes SHOULD line up. They do on the drivers side. They should on the passenger side as well. Too much to ask?
When I installed my Hooker headers on my 89 I found that if I put the header up against the head, that some of the bolts wouldn't start threading into the head because they hit the pipe and were at an angle, before I could get them started in...I found that by pulling the header away from the head a small amount, then starting the bolt, that I could start the bolt without hitting the tube..Your suppose to start all the bolts on the header first, before attempting to tighten any of them down, this way the header can be moved in and out to allow room to start them....This may address the problem your having.....WW
When I installed my Hooker headers on my 89 I found that if I put the header up against the head, that some of the bolts wouldn't start threading into the head because they hit the pipe and were at an angle, before I could get them started in...I found that by pulling the header away from the head a small amount, then starting the bolt, that I could start the bolt without hitting the tube..Your suppose to start all the bolts on the header first, before attempting to tighten any of them down, this way the header can be moved in and out to allow room to start them....This may address the problem your having.....WW
Did that. Threaded the 2 outer bolts enough to support the header. Slipped in the gasket. Then threaded all the others by hand. Then tightened each a little at a time. The bolts are all in. Needed to fabricate a few tools, which is normal. But things don't line up. Cannot get a socket on #5 plug. Cannot attach passenger side AIR pipe. Could not re-use the EGR pipe bolts. And I'm a little worried about the O2 sensor. It's on the side of the collector and the wire stretches across the gap to the frame. Run over something, like a tumble weed, and it could be torn loose. Just not a fan.
A simple solution for you is to get a ball head allen set. I have one that I use, cut it off and insert it in the proper size 1/4" drive socket and you are good to go. As with most modifications, sometimes you have to figure out how to make things work and try different things instead of throwing up your hands and blaming the manufacturer. That's why they are called engine modifications.
A simple solution for you is to get a ball head allen set. I have one that I use, cut it off and insert it in the proper size 1/4" drive socket and you are good to go. As with most modifications, sometimes you have to figure out how to make things work and try different things instead of throwing up your hands and blaming the manufacturer. That's why they are called engine modifications.
As much as some designers try they can never take into consideration all off the previous mods, damage, neglect, changes, etc. that every car will have, and thus there will always be some kind of incompatibility or fitment issues for at least one person.
No they are not for the SBC, but I am pleased with the fit of my Melrose LS swap headers including the fact that one of the O2 bungs is useless.
My Hooker headers dropped right in and bolted right up...The difference was, I didn't have an egr pipe or anything else in the way when putting them on.. All my emission stuff is gone on my 383 and Im sure that makes for a much easier install... My suggestion for the OP is to return the Melrose headers, then talk to a few guys on this forum that have installed headers with all the emission stuff still hooked up. They would be the ones that could help him out the most on what headers to get that would be the easiest to install, and have the least amount of problems........WW
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