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Battery Drain - Dead Battery

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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 07:05 PM
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Default Battery Drain - Dead Battery

After I first bought my 94 in May of last year, the battery went dead a couple of times and I just bought a new battery thinking the dealer suckered me. This battery probably was bad or at least weak, but the new battery went dead several times after sitting for a month or 2, but it would not be weak each time it sat. I took Paul Workman's reply in the "C4 Battery charger / maintainer / desulfator project" sticky - that I should only have about 50mA load on the battery when the key switch is off. I tested my car with an amp meter 10 times and about 5 times the drain was about 60mA+/- and the other 5 times it was 2.0A! I noticed that each time I made the circuit the right front headlight motor would run much longer than the left front. I had more important problems to fix, but now both headlight motors have the delrin bushings in them AND... I now no longer have a 2.0A drain. With 10 cycles of the power all 10 times the current was about 60mA+/-!

I guess it will take some months to know for sure if I have fixed my current drain. Hope this help some of you.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 01:09 AM
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Sounds like you may have found your drain.
Probably wasn't the best thing to happen to a new battery, but one of those little "Battery MINDers" will do it a world of good and get it back to like new condition. Brings them back up safely and desulfates and maintains them at their comfort level. You can leave them plugged in indefinitely and they won't over charge or slow cook a battery.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 07:52 AM
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If you didn't let the interior lights "Time Out" you will have higher readings then the 50 ma allowed..After disconnecting the battery cable, you have to run a jumper wire from the battery cable to the battery , then wait until the interior lights go out..Then with the jumper wire still hooked up check the amp draw by hooking your meter between the cable and battery...A lot of guys make the mistake of checking the amp draw without letting the interior lights shut off first, checking it the way I described above may get your amps reading down to below 50 ma......WW
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Last edited by WW7; Feb 23, 2015 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
If you didn't let the interior lights "Time Out" you will have higher readings then the 50 ma allowed..After disconnecting the battery cable, you have to run a jumper wire from the battery cable to the battery , then wait until the interior lights go out..Then with the jumper wire still hooked up check the amp draw by hooking your meter between the cable and battery...A lot of guys make the mistake of checking the amp draw without letting the interior lights shut off first, checking it the way I described above may get your amps reading down to below 50 ma......WW
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I did exactly as you said. Until the interior lights went out the current was app. 4.0A.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Klondike
Sounds like you may have found your drain.
Probably wasn't the best thing to happen to a new battery, but one of those little "Battery MINDers" will do it a world of good and get it back to like new condition. Brings them back up safely and desulfates and maintains them at their comfort level. You can leave them plugged in indefinitely and they won't over charge or slow cook a battery.
I have a slow battery charger and have left the battery on charge for 24 - 36 hours at times. Hoping that will no longer be necessary.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by afgunn
I have a slow battery charger and have left the battery on charge for 24 - 36 hours at times. Hoping that will no longer be necessary.
You need a battery tender floating type not a charger. My car is always plugged in when I'm not using it. A regular charger may ruin your battery
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