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Where did this diagram come from? The reason I ask is that it can't possibly be hooked up that way. The output of the amp is connected directly to +battery, which can't be right. It looks like the amp should connect to pin C.
Where did this diagram come from? The reason I ask is that it can't possibly be hooked up that way. The output of the amp is connected directly to +battery, which can't be right. It looks like the amp should connect to pin C.
Yes Cliff it certainly seems to be an obvious error in that "internal" display of the HEI module. There are correct ones out there even from the very simple schematics by most of the chains, that are only concerned with the pin-outs for diagnostics (+ & C= trigger to coil). Someone it appears was attempting to impress and likely had no idea of the information he was looking at. The symbols and the reference to the relay "in run" might confuse the issue.
Fortunately for most users there's no need for the "internal" schematic of a component that has no serviceable components.
For the OP - if it runs well you can certainly overlook most/many of the items you might come across.
I generally rely on FSM's for wiring but there's some references here that are used frequently:
The good advice I got from a long-time Corvette tuner is simple. Avoid the complexity as Multi Spark Discharge is only helpful above 7000 rpm or with forced induction. My car has neither and runs strong and hard, all the way to 6300 rpm shutoff; with 'only' an HEI. Just ensure that you use a quality ignition modue, as quality has become spotty. Last time, I bought three 'old' stock, as insurance.
The spark used is only that required to fire the plug and is actually about the current flow, not voltage. Voltage is the 'potential' to jump the gap and current is how thick that arc is. Higher compression demands for more current and higher RPM gives the unit less time to recharge for the next firing.
The ignition module is a necessary electronic part to make your car run. It is underneath the distributor cap. Buy a spare and keep it in your car along with the tools to change it. It WILL go out eventually and probably at the worst possible time and location.
Last edited by sjarrett71; Feb 28, 2015 at 05:00 PM.
Forget the high voltage multi-strike hype and stick with your HEI distributor module. It's plenty strong for most anything but NASCAR power requirements. The extra high voltage multi-strike boxes just prematurely wear out/burn the rotor tip and cap contacts anyway and create a huge amount of corosive Ozone gas inside the cap area leading to arc-overs and misfires later down the road.
In my experience MSD stands for Mostly Sh!ty Devices anyway.