power window motor problem
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power window motor problem
i am trying to find the problem with my passenger window not working. i have tested the switch and all leads seem to have power. i now have the door panel removed & i want to test the motor itself. there is one brown wire & one blue wire that goes to the motor. do i need to supply power to one of these leads and also use a ground wire?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: East Wenatchee Washington
i am trying to find the problem with my passenger window not working. i have tested the switch and all leads seem to have power. i now have the door panel removed & i want to test the motor itself. there is one brown wire & one blue wire that goes to the motor. do i need to supply power to one of these leads and also use a ground wire?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Middletown Delaware
i am trying to find the problem with my passenger window not working. i have tested the switch and all leads seem to have power. i now have the door panel removed & i want to test the motor itself. there is one brown wire & one blue wire that goes to the motor. do i need to supply power to one of these leads and also use a ground wire?
What do you mean the switch 'seems' to have power? It either does or doesn't. How did you determine this , what tools did you use to test?
The motor needs 12 volts both power (+) and ground (-) like any electric motor needs to work properly. What year is your car?
Last edited by Ozzstar; Apr 26, 2015 at 08:32 AM.
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when I say seems, I have the correct 92 fsm to trouble shoot the problem but but the 6 wire colors they show do not match the colors on the switch, so I simply tested all the leads and 4 show power, so I assume there should be power going to the motor but I would like to test the motor by putting power directly to the motor with a fused test lead. Hope that clears up what I meant.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: East Wenatchee Washington
Like I say - disconnect the wires from the motor, hook your meter to the wires incoming TO the motor, turn on the ignition, push the window switch. If you get 12 volts on the meter, then your switches, wiring and fuses are all working, and the problem is likely in the window mechanism. If you don't get 12 volts, your problem is further upstream.
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Ok, I am back working on my window problem. I am now as far as the removal of the accessoru mounting plate, and I am having trouble with the step where it says in the fsm to remove the window glass stabilizer guide to accessory mounting plate screw and loosen screw mounting stabilizer to door frame. I need help identifying these two screws. If I knew how to post a picture from my email I would show a pic of the door to show the choices.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 925
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From: East Wenatchee Washington
Ok, I am back working on my window problem. I am now as far as the removal of the accessoru mounting plate, and I am having trouble with the step where it says in the fsm to remove the window glass stabilizer guide to accessory mounting plate screw and loosen screw mounting stabilizer to door frame. I need help identifying these two screws. If I knew how to post a picture from my email I would show a pic of the door to show the choices.
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...windowreg.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...grade-install/
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: San Antonio Texas
My motor colors were Brown & Blue. You can unplug the motor from the switch and hook up a battery or another DC voltage source to the 2 wires and get motor/window movement. It's a Neg. ground application from the switch depending if you want up or down. I made up a little poem to help me remember....Ground on Brown, the window goes Down. Ground on Blue, it goes Up for you. If you get no movement, most likely it is the motor. Mine had a rusted motor brush spring that rusted in-two and stopped applying pressure to the armature brush (no voltage going to the armature). Being a cheap bastard, I made a new spring out of a piece of guitar string and fixed it. If you have to remove the window lift from the door, mark the position of every bolt with a little paint so you can get the alignment back where it was. If you don't it's a major BEYOCH!
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here is the picture showing the panel where I am looking for the two bolts described in the fsm. I thought the one bolt I have marked with an A was the one they say to remove but that is an adjustment bolt that does not come out all the way. Is it the bolt that I have marked with a B that needs to be removed?
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,150
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From: San Antonio Texas
I think "B" is a window tilt adjustment.
Hope somebody chimes in here, cause I didn't remove my regulator.
I may be the first person to ever rebuild the motor while it was still IN the door!
Hope somebody chimes in here, cause I didn't remove my regulator.
I may be the first person to ever rebuild the motor while it was still IN the door!
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won't somebody please respond whether screw A is one that needs to be removed completely. I have tried to remove it, but after it comes loose so far it just gets tight as though it is not meant to come out any further. I need to know if I have to keep forcing it till it is all the way out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: East Wenatchee Washington
won't somebody please respond whether screw A is one that needs to be removed completely. I have tried to remove it, but after it comes loose so far it just gets tight as though it is not meant to come out any further. I need to know if I have to keep forcing it till it is all the way out.
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Thanks MaxD, I just needed a little reassurance that was what screw needed removed, just could not understand why it would only come so far and get tight, just required more force as the threads seemed to be buggered up. Next is to try to get the window down to remove the regulator. Thanks again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 925
Likes: 6
From: East Wenatchee Washington
Thanks MaxD, I just needed a little reassurance that was what screw needed removed, just could not understand why it would only come so far and get tight, just required more force as the threads seemed to be buggered up. Next is to try to get the window down to remove the regulator. Thanks again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
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From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
That '74 circuit diagram is of no use to use. VERY different in 1980. No relay and the power windows use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse.
The circuit breakers are thermally activated and are supposed to reset automatically when they cool but problems happen. The circuit breaker is in the fuse box and look like a little oblong box. It is installed above the "PWR ACC" label. Remove it and make sure it has continuity.
You said the windows were "tired". Were they perhaps going up far slower than down? If so the lift assist spring installed on the regulator is broken.
You are also on the right track in thinking it is past time to disassemble, clean, lubricate and replace as necessary. All of the 40 year-old rollers come under the "necessary" replacement category. The regulator itself is likely fine but you have to drill out the rollers. Do a search about "peening" to understand the simple way to install new rollers in the regulator.
The circuit breakers are thermally activated and are supposed to reset automatically when they cool but problems happen. The circuit breaker is in the fuse box and look like a little oblong box. It is installed above the "PWR ACC" label. Remove it and make sure it has continuity.
You said the windows were "tired". Were they perhaps going up far slower than down? If so the lift assist spring installed on the regulator is broken.
You are also on the right track in thinking it is past time to disassemble, clean, lubricate and replace as necessary. All of the 40 year-old rollers come under the "necessary" replacement category. The regulator itself is likely fine but you have to drill out the rollers. Do a search about "peening" to understand the simple way to install new rollers in the regulator.