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Steering column fix question

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Old May 12, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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Default Steering column fix question

I bought 2 of the oversized pins from haibeck.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...lumn%20pin.htm

I was able to get the left side in with quite a fight and the right side will not go in. I was banging on it pretty good but was worried about breaking something so I gave up and put the OEM pin back in. I still have play going from 2-7 and 10-4 plus I have play going from 12 to 6 (Up, down) also. The column does feel tighter now that I put in one oversized pin but it still has slop. Its very annoying to me as I want it gone. I can let go of the wheel and hit a bump and watch it bounce around... Is there a special procedure for putting the oversized pin in? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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Old May 12, 2015 | 09:16 PM
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How does the wheel move? Does it move at the same time as the upper tilt housing, or just the wheel?
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Old May 12, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyowner
How does the wheel move? Does it move at the same time as the upper tilt housing, or just the wheel?
I just went out and really studied the movement. Top to bottom, 2-7 and 10-4 the tilt housing moves and I just noticed that I have a left to right movement that is in the steering wheel itself. (At least I can't see the housing moving, I'm pretty sure it's not)
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Old May 12, 2015 | 09:56 PM
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I feel your pain. I did the oversized pin in my 94'. It actually cured the 2-7 slop entirely, but introduced a 12-6 slop which wasn't there at all before.

From what you are describing, sounds like when you removed the right side pin and reinstalled the same one you may have hogged out the hole slightly and introduced the 10-4 slop. At this point, you may want to pull the column if you haven't already, and send it out to have rebuilt. That will be my next route. I know they are old cars, but I can't believe how fragile and frail some of the components are.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 09:59 PM
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Either the tilt base or the tilt housing is still sloppy (or both). Only the tilt base is available new, but you can bush up the housing or pin as needed with an actual machined bushing or with copper sheet or something malleable. You may have to remove the column or tear it down far enough to get at it though.

Copper sheet bushing- this column got a new tilt base, but the tilt housing had slop one one side- this is repair holding up just fine 3 years later.


not for the feint of heart:


Old tiltbase only had a little wiggle, but it really adds up:


Copper transformer winding sheet:

Last edited by mike100; May 12, 2015 at 10:02 PM.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by v8vette84
I just went out and really studied the movement. Top to bottom, 2-7 and 10-4 the tilt housing moves and I just noticed that I have a left to right movement that is in the steering wheel itself. (At least I can't see the housing moving, I'm pretty sure it's not)
The piece the holds the lock cylinder (where you stick the ignition key in the column) does that move with the steering wheel?

PS
After reading it again it sounds like you may have assembled the upper tilt bearing wrong. I did that the first time I reassembled my column after fixing it.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyowner
The piece the holds the lock cylinder (where you stick the ignition key in the column) does that move with the steering wheel?

PS
After reading it again it sounds like you may have assembled the upper tilt bearing wrong. I did that the first time I reassembled my column after fixing it.
I didn't take any bearings out, are you referring to the one that goes directly under the lock plate spring? (Keeps the upper shaft tight) I never took it out, it stayed in place the whole time I had the column apart. Yes the lock cylinder moves too.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mike100

Copper transformer winding sheet:
Where did you get that copper sheet? Also what is the thickness of it? I tried using aluminum foil before I bought the oversized bushings but it didn't seem to work.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by v8vette84
I didn't take any bearings out, are you referring to the one that goes directly under the lock plate spring? (Keeps the upper shaft tight) I never took it out, it stayed in place the whole time I had the column apart. Yes the lock cylinder moves too.
Part of the upper bearing that is under the lock plate spring can be installed backwards, and will allow the bearing move causing the steering wheel to move.

Does the lower tilt housing move or just the upper? If it's just the upper then it is still probably a tilt pin issue.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 12:35 AM
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Yea it's just the upper. The lower does not move at all.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by v8vette84
Where did you get that copper sheet?
PM me and i'll send you a strip. We use it to make small transformers, but buying an entire roll is cost prohibitive. I used scissors and cut off a piece a couple of mm long to wrap around the fatter part of the pin (tilt housing portion), then used a small hammer to drive it home and form the copper.

I think it is .003-.004 thick..there is also .010 sheet. I will have to check.

Last edited by mike100; May 13, 2015 at 10:17 AM. Reason: more info
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