Well, after a couple months of no radio I'm going to attempt to install a new stereo and re-wire the car to use aftermarket speakers. It looks like it's necessary to run new speaker wires all the way around as well as use the receiver bypass adapter.

I've heard horror stories. Any advice?

Thanks!

 

Nothing really difficult about it. I don't know what year model of your car, but I have seen where some people have had to deal with the "sys" message after removing the stock stereo. On my '95, the rear speakers went in with no problem. Of course, that enclosure is pretty big. I had to make a mounting box for the front speakers due to the small size of that enclosure.

To run the speaker and adapter wires to the rear, I removed the passenger seat and the center console. That allowed me to pull the carpet back and run the wires along the tunnel. There is a hole in the metal behind the passenger seat that wire is fed through to the rear compartment. I was able to feed the adapter wire through this hole. I ran the speaker wires under the carpeting to the speaker enclosures.

Can be a little time consuming, but all-in-all, a fairly straight-forward job.

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. Mine is a 1994 with the Bose system. I'm still confused about using the adapter to bypass the receiver and running the speaker wires. Does the adapter attach to the back of the stereo and then to the receiver behind the seat? Do the speaker wires run from the receiver to the speakers directly or through the old receiver box? Sorry about all of the questions, I'm just having a hard time conceptualizing this.
How long did it take?
Any snags?

Thanks again!

 

What is this adapter you speak of?

I put a deck in mine and I have the SYS flash every few seconds. I read somewhere once that you just have to put a resistor in line?

I'm just now getting back into actually doing things on my car since I have so many other projects. My parents owned it for a few years and then I traded them a running car for it after the optispark went out on them for a second time and they didn't want to pay another $1500 for someone to fix it.

An answer to my question would be appreciated though and not a "do a search" reply

 

The bypass harness http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207018...s-Harness.html

I've also heard about some type of an in-line resistor. I've heard so much contradicting info on what's necessary I'm just not sure. That's why I'm so grateful to hear from some guys that have actually done it themselves.

 

Hopefully a senior member with some actual knowledge will reply, but my guess is that maybe the bose system has an amp or equalizer that needs an additional wiring than just the speaker outputs or something and that harness you posted is just kind of like a nice plug and play harness that prevents you from having to do a lot of wire splicing.

Just do what I do, jump in and figure it out.

 

Each speaker has an amp, and there is a tuner behind the drivers seat. I'm really trying to avoid jumping in without knowing what I'm doing. That never seems to go well for me.
I spent probably 3 hours researching my heater core replacement prior to loosening one screw, and it was time well spent.

 

Well there you go then, I would think logically that harness has to be for what I described in my previous post then. So you either need it if you want retain the bose stuff or you can rip all the bose stuff out and run new speaker wire.

 

Here is what you do. Unplug the harness from the receiver in the compartment behind the passenger seat. Plug the Metra harness into that plug and then run the wires to where the head unit will be placed. Connect the metra harnes wires to the wires on the harness that comes with the radio. You only need to use constant power, ignition power, antenna and ground. ( I think that is it) If you are going to keep the stock speakers than use the rca's that are in the metra harness. If you are going to use aftermarket speakers that run new speaker wires and attach the new wires to the harness that some with the new radio. Pretty straight forward.

You will need to run the resistor so you sys light will not flash. There is a thread on that do a search. I have heard that if you have automatic climate control you do not have to resistor but I have not tried it.

 

I do not have climate control and I have the SYS message. Can someone please just provide the link to the thread that properly describes the resistor thing.

I haven't been on here long enough to know what threads actually contain the correct information and the threads like this one where there is just a couple of confused newbies and only a couple half answers from seniors that use the "search" cop out

 

Awesome, thanks! I do have auto climate control, so we'll see.

 

Looks like your just going to replace the head unit and keep the bose speaker set up, Just follow the instructions that come with the adapter wiring.
I've never done a C4 but I did my C5 the same way and it worked out fine. I also found another adapter to adjust the base for the bose speakers.
Best advice I have is do your wiring correct use heat shrink and solder the wires. I just had my Bose amp repaired and add an I pod connection had these guys do it never sounded better.

http://www.carstereohelp.com/corvette.htm

 

While I don't have my new system built and installed - I do have the factory Bose unit behind the passenger seat completely out of the car (for sale BTW) and do not have a SYS light. I DO have Auto Climate Control. 1996 Coupe

 

Nope, I'm going with all aftermarket speakers.

 

Slow down there partner. I know you are frustrated but no need to get bent out of shape.

Try this link out.

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml

If that does not help you out then just ask again. No need to get defensive or rude.

And BTW that was found by doing a search.

https://www.google.com/search?num=30&espv=2&q=c4+corvette+sys+f lashing+stereo&oq=c4+corvette+sys+flashi ng+stereo&gs_l=serp.3...623122.631108.0. 631349.22.17.0.5.5.0.156.1915.0j15.15.0. ...0...1c.1.64.serp..8.14.1201.WBZf5U5vj Es

 

I put a new radio in a 96 lt4 that did not have climate control. I kept getting the sys message and finally wound up soldering in the resistors. I forget where they went but it was some where behind the new head unit and involved cutting a couple of wires. I don't remember what thread had the instructions. A bit of work but well worth it.

Rick

 

I just installed a complete new system in my 89. I added a 400w power amp to the mix, 2 6x9s in the rear and 2 5.25 inchers in the doors, and a remote antenna.

I used the original boxes but had to make some plywood adapters to mount the speakers. I also ran all new 16 gauge speaker wire to all speakers and a 8 gauge power wire straight to the battery.

The 89s don't have anything behind the passenger seat and my Metra adaptor was useless. I cut and spliced the wires I needed from the old head unit plug and just used the new ones wiring harness.

I installed the power amp under the passenger seat and tried to arrange the mass of wires running to it in a neat, orderly fashion using lots of tie wraps and wire loom.

Rick

 

Also the factory grill would not fit back in place because they hit the speakers. So I just turned them over and mounted them backwards to protect the speakers until I can make some new grills.

Rick

 

Just to expand on this:

The Metra harness has a wiring diagram with it. Prior to pulling anything out of the car, I made all of the connections between the Metra harness and the pigtail that came with the stereo (Solder and heat shrink of course). Since you are using your own speakers, you won't need to connect the speaker inputs.

Next, I removed the old head unit. Before installing the new unit, I had to trim off some of the mounting bracket in the back. This is a plastic bracket, so cutting it off wasn't difficult. This was necessary to give the new head unit enough room to be slid all the way in. (btw, I used a double din unit from Crutchfield).

I then ran the Metra harness and rear speaker wires under the carpet along the tunnel (after removing the drivers seat and console cover). The metra harness went through the hole behind the drivers seat and into the rear compartment. The speaker wires went under the carpet behind both seats and then along the side to each speaker.

The metra harness connects directly to the harness that plugs into the receiver. I removed the reciever since it was no longer connected to anything. The Metra harness is about 10 ft longer than necessary, so you will have to figure out what to do with the extra cable.

I ran the front speaker wires under the front carpet to the front speaker enclosures. Removing the front speaker enclosures is pretty easy. You have to remove a few trim pieces and the enclosure cover.

Finally, I connected the head unit, slid it in place, used the mounting brackets supplied with the mounting kit to secure the head unit in place. Put everything back in place. Enjoyed the stereo and regretted that I didn't install a sub woofer and amp.

 

Fantastic write up. Thanks so much. This is clearer and more helpful than anything I've been able to find searching online. Thanks again.