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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I remember having the same problem on a C3 engine. I used a piece of 2x4 up against the head and hit the other end of the wood with a small sledge hammer. After being on the engine for some 20+ years sometimes they need a little persuasion.
Even with ALL of the bolts out, you will likely still need to use the 2x4 and tap it with a large hammer to break it loose. At least that is what found when replacing the head gaskets. I kept looking for the other bolt(s) because it just did not seem to move. Finally, tapped it using the wood block at each end, and it immediately showed a slight crack and was easy to lift off. Well, easy considering they are still big and heavier than you might think. Good luck!
so I got the head off and each cylinder had variuos amounts of coolant in them i am guessing it leaked in from the head as the car ran fine before i started this. i pulled this apart because i was leaking fluid from the back and my mechanic told me he saw the coolant leaking from somewhere around the head gasket, problem is the gasket looks intact and the head doesn't look like it has any cracks don,t know what to do now did i go through this for nothing
Did you see where the coolant was leaking around the head as indicated by your mechanic? Where was it?
What did the intake gasket look like?
Was there coolant loss in the system?
If there was no indication of coolant loss in the coolant system....how well do you trust your mechanic? Any chance he was looking for work and was looking to you for his next paycheck?
IF you didn't pull the knock sensor and the plug in the driver's side of the block, the coolant level in the block was higher than the heads. So when you pulled the heads, the coolant ran into the cylinders.
Did you see where the coolant was leaking around the head as indicated by your mechanic? Where was it?
What did the intake gasket look like?
Was there coolant loss in the system?
If there was no indication of coolant loss in the coolant system....how well do you trust your mechanic? Any chance he was looking for work and was looking to you for his next paycheck?
IF you didn't pull the knock sensor and the plug in the driver's side of the block, the coolant level in the block was higher than the heads. So when you pulled the heads, the coolant ran into the cylinders.
no water in the oil
coolant was leaking from the back of the engine car ran fine but coolant was dripping out pretty good.
gaskets all looked ok
didn't pull the plug
i am going to get the head checked for trueness and put it back together, don't know what else to do at this point
I'm sorry, I didn't mean the Plenum I meant the intake. I just degreased the Plenum. The 100 degree heat is getting to me. If you are taking your heads to shop they will know a cost. It was 3 years ago for me and I am thinking it was around $300 for all 3. As far as power, I didn't measure it before or after. You can Google engine porting and find out. To me, my 88 with 133,000 miles gets up and goes much better than before. I ended up having to replace the fuel pump a year later. It became lazy due to age and a new pump seemed to help my power also. Good luck with engine work.
If you are working on a L-98, a can of the L-98 valve cover spray paint works wonders on the runners and plenum, 2 coats.
You never mentioned if the car over heated, so I will assume that it did not. So the chances are that the heads are flat. But if you actually saw coolant leaking from between the head and block it has to be the gasket or the head is warped.
If you look at your old gaskets, you will see that the coolant passages are all close to the cylinder walls. There is a lot of gasket material between the passages and the outside edge of the gaskets. I think you would have seen some sign of coolant moving or forced past the gasket and running out between the head and block.
The coolant was leaking between the head and block...correct? No chance it was leaking between the intake and the head and running down the back of the head?