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Yesterday, I took my 93 up the road to see if the new wheels I put on were balanced ok. I only went about a mile and a half but when I went to turn around, I got on the brakes hard and the pedal kept going down and the brake warning light came on. When I got back, there was a trail of fluid under the car; we put it up on the lift and found the lines were really rusty where they go through the last clamp before going into the box under the rear floor board.
I was trying to get it ready for an autocross at Neosho this Sunday, I think this will keep me home.
I don't know whether I should buy new lines for $400 or so, try to make new ones and put unions where I can get to good metal. I'll have to go all the way to the front floorboard to get to them and I'm not sure there's room for fittings to fit.
Have you checked all along the lines to see if there is any more rust? Would be a PITA to fix one break and then find another weak spot somewhere else.
The lines should be mostly exposed to where they enter the body cavity and go up to the ABS unit. Try to cut as much of the old lines out as possible and match the bends. Do you know if the break is in the line from the master cylinder to the ABS pump or one of the lines from the pump out to a wheel?
On my ZR-1 I replaced the Master Cylinder only to find out my lines from the MC to the ABS pump were the ones that failed. They are stainless steel flexiable lines. Take a look at those.
Metal brake lines rust from the inside out as well as from the outside. Remember that brake fluid is known to absorb moisture which is why manufacturers recommend periodic flushing and replacing of brake fluid. The absolute last place you want to cut corners is your brakes. Be advised, if you replace only a section of the brake line - the weakest point of failure - the next weakest point will fail. There's a LOT of pressure in brake lines. The older the car, the greater the likelihood there's going to be rust in the metal brake lines....
I personally think its stupid easy to just make your own lines. Go to the parts store, buy the correct size hard line. Buy more than you need since you will screw up your first time.
Buy a hand bender so you don't kink the line. Plus it will make it look "right". You just lay the line where it needs to be ran. When you come to a corner, just mark with a sharpie and bend. You could even make the shape of the brake line before out of bailing wire.
I know plenty of people, even friends of mine, that just throw stainless braided line at everything and are fine with it. I personally think that looks just like if you were to make an entire exhaust system out of flexible tubing. Silly.
Here are some lines I ran on my truck. Stainless braided sections only in areas where the line needs to pivot
I know exactly where the line is leaking, it's under the last clamp before they go into the ABS box. They all 4 look like they'll disintegrate if I touch them. I don't know where they end up in front and I guess the cover has to come off of the box to get to the back end. They are not all the same size. Does anyone know what size they are? Are brake lines measured by inside or outside diameter?
I'll probably end up trying to make new ones and replace them all.
I wound up ordering a full set of lines from Corvette Central, $319 with free shipping. I can't wait to find out how much fun they are to replace and of course, bleeding the brakes.
I have made full sets of lines for two cars using a hand bender and a double flare tool. It was a lot of time and effort to do it right but cheap. I can see why someone would pony up for premade.
Muskegon has a complete steel line kit for $175 plus shipping. Shipping to my house was under 20 bucks.
I'm pretty tight but bending all the lines up into the ABS box made $175 seem cheap. Guess I'll find out how well the lines fit. Any tips on this under taking, looks like it's not going to be much fun. At least I have a lift so that will make things a bit easier to deal with.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Pics of used fuel and brake lines at Vette2Vette. I took this pic when I was preparing to submit an article to Corvette Enthusiast magazine just before they stopped publishing. If I recall correctly he guarantees all parts to be in good working condition.
Have now received the complete brake hard line kit for the 94. Think it will be easier to install than I first thought, except the one line from the ABS to the right rear. Looks like the rear end assy will have to be dropped to install the line, something I do not want to do. Any suggestions??????? Thought about cutting the line in half and install one end at a time, then double flare and join to two together. Well cut and double flare then install.
Have now received the complete brake hard line kit for the 94. Think it will be easier to install than I first thought, except the one line from the ABS to the right rear. Looks like the rear end assy will have to be dropped to install the line, something I do not want to do. Any suggestions??????? Thought about cutting the line in half and install one end at a time, then double flare and join to two together. Well cut and double flare then install.
Have a great day,
Bob
As long as you practice first on some same size scrap pieces till you can make good junctions. There isn't anything wrong with making it easier on yourself by making a two piece line. You'll know when you get into the project if you need to fab up your own pieces. Just be careful and good luck.
As long as you practice first on some same size scrap pieces till you can make good junctions. There isn't anything wrong with making it easier on yourself by making a two piece line. You'll know when you get into the project if you need to fab up your own pieces. Just be careful and good luck.
Never, ever, ever, piece in a brake line. Always replace a bad line fully. The lines are easy to make with some practice. Unions are fine. Just do it right with all new material and take your time. Stainless steel is not necessary and is harder to work with. I'd rather worth with mild steel and do them every 10 years. Much easier to bend and flare.
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brake line woes
