84 corvette beater! (I'm 20 years old, didn't come from a history of much money or any at all, but love cars and wrenching and work my *** off everyday to enjoy them! So hear me out on this crazy idea I have.... )

The car has had mice before I got her and the result is a intermittent start. I've checked the neutral safety switch as well as replacing the starter switch on the column with no results....(leaving me to have no choice but to think it needs a whole tear down of dash and possible removing of engine to find and fix or replace whole harness which I don't have the time or money to start until the winter time when in not working 70 hours a week doing hardwood floors.

( I will install of refinish you existing hardwood floor for a good price in Michigan!)

My plan to get around this temporarily (till after back to the bricks and Woodward dream cruise here in michigan) is to bypass the starter switch completely with a 20amp momentary starter switch i picked up from autozone for 10 dollars, and hard wiring it to the starter as a bypass. There is no radio so I will be putting sheet metal over it and locating the starter bypass switch there. That leaves me with turning the key to the on position and then pushing my new starter button to start it. Problem with that is that I messed up the key system replacing the ignition switch (I think I bent the rod) so I've been using a screw driver to push it when diagnosing and checking with voltmeter...

So....

With the key not working either I also would like to delete the starter switch on the column and replace it with a single pull single throw switch (on/off) in the same location (where radio used to be) as I put the push start button.

Here is a pre-fab example of what I'm talking about if I didn't explain correctly:

http://m.aliexpress.com/item/5089762...bilesitedetail

So the question is which wires on the starter switch (on top of column) need to be routed to my single throw (on/off) button to act as the key is turned so that I can just turn it on (for power to ignition, fuel pump, etc..) then just push button for starter to start and then turn switch off to kill engine and all power draw.

Thanks guys in advance!

Btw.. I do have a Haynes manual for it and I do know that my answer is in the wiring diagram. I am looking for a verbal explanation of what color the wires that go to starter switch on the steering column are that I need to tap to go to my new on/off switch as well as what size fuses and where I should put them with what I am doing for my temporary "fix".

 

Holy cow kid. Your not going to like this but you need to hear it. Unless your building a maximum effort race car then fix it right. Its going to be EASIER to fix it properly than to scab up the hack job your describing. Honestly it sounds like you just have a bad starter motor, and if that's the case then your plan is going to fail anyway.

 

I did the whole push button start thing when I was 17. Def a stupid kid move that I would never do again.

 

I did something very similar with headlights. Wow did I work at that....

 

Personally, I hate "cobbled solutions". But, the question made me smile...

I had a 1948 Plymouth that had push-button start. What was old is once again new, I guess!!

 

I have two words for you: "junk yard". You should be able to find replacements parts easily and cheaply at a junkyard. Even if you cannot find a vette, many GM cars use the same parts so with a little research you should be able to get this put back to correct operation at a minimal cost.

 

The ignition switch does not go directly to the starter solenoid. It goes through a starter enable relay, which is found behind the DIC (Driver Information Center) in the center cluster. It's next to the blue chime module.

 

Hey guys! Well I went ahead and took the starter off again and retested it on battery charger by using the screw driver on connecting points and it worked perfect. I installed it again but this time I added extra wires one being on the power stud and one on the smaller start (to mimic screw driver) and I get spark and 12v from meter like there's power going to starter when connecting the two wires but the starter doesn't do anything when I connect these two wires together they just spark. I only tapped them together a couple times so I didn't have a meltdown tho. Does this test mean that my problem is the starter ground itself because I know the starter is getting power so why can't I "jump" the starter on the car but can with a charger? Thanks

 

Bad battery or bad conection clean all grounds too

 

The small wire on the solenoid goes to 12 volts when you start the engine, so jumping it to the battery cable connection should make it work. It will spark because it's pulling a fair amount of current. Ignore the spark and it will work.

 

Doesn't work... Because there is spark that means I can rule out the starter ground right? Cause I can hold them together all day long and the starter does nothing even when getting 13.5v putting multimeter on the two wires. One thing is that my battery doesn't hold a charge so I have been using a 200 amp battery charger on it to to my testing. Even with the powerful charger can a bad battery cause all of this?

 

You can also damage your alt on newer cars doing this not sure on yours.