I hate lore..."I heard". So I have to post. If this stuff was developed for the reason you stated, than it's deveolpment was a complete waste. The combustion chambers of ALL 2 strokes are cleaned by what?.....the GASOLINE that you burn in the engine! If you need more cleaning, you can simply run it richer, which gives you more piston wash, or run water though it. Cheap. Here is a picture of gasoline's cleansing effect on the piston top. Note the "Rich" (more clean) piston vs. the lean (dirty) piston.



So I picked up a 350 from the junk yard...it had several, if not all stuck rings (low compression, burned oil). I didn't use seafoam on it, but did get it running and changed the oil a few times in succession, and it unstuck the rings, quite burning oil, and compression came back. That was about 8 years ago...motor still runs strong today. I think the act of running the motor is what fixed your rings.



Seafoam MAKES thick blue smoke, b/c one of it's 3 ingredients is...oil! A "clean" engine most certainly will blow out smoke, b/c you're burning oil...which makes smoke.

 

Seafoam, STP, Motor honey ect ... Are all in the same category as "using the force" and "magic beans".

 

Maybe I should have gotten into the additive business. Way too many suckers out there that rely on anecdotal evidence. Cleans your injectors? How did you know this? Did you test the injectors before and after?

Say you clean a room blindfolded. You see a pile of dirty rags and a dustpan full of crud. Did you get it all? How much is left? A company that peddles the stuff refuses to commission a test in an accredited laboratory using accepted scientific methods and relies on anecdotal evidence is suspect from the get go.

 

Motor Honey gets some people horny. Maybe it makes them think of a powered sex toy for men?

 

Hard to recommend a product that doesn't dare to submit itself for proper testing and relies on the testimonials from the SOTP dyno which we all know is susceptible to the placebo effect.

OTOH, if we are peddling it, you bet we can say it works.

 

People selling the snake oil are. Just believe, no formal proof required. So yes, it is a religion

 

My decision is based off testing and not anecdotes. Get me 100 fouled motors, disassemble them, measure carbon, reassemble, run with stuff, strip down and measure again.

You raised an opinion, I raised a challenge. I have no issues either way with you dumping snake oil in your car. Either you can show me some science or as you say, FO.

 

The fact is you got nothing other than words. No data, no documentation, nothing. Much like the companies that peddle the crap. If you had proof, I'd have seen it.

 

Only your neurologist can confirm. OTOH, if you are willing to accept guesswork and supposition, I'd be happy to guess all day long.

No proof exists either way nor is there proof that some other liquid might have worked.

Bye. I see this on other forums. Let's see if you can do as well as you talk.

 

WHY!? Are you adverse to learning? To fact? I'm sorry if fact "really sucks", for you.

If anyone in this thread is a "Jehovah's witness", it's the ones peddling the product that isn't needed! Not the folks who say otherwise...and provide compelling evidence to back their position!



Did you see the pics I posted of 2 stroke pistons?? You should know that as a fleet manager for ~20 years, I've worked on 2 stoke engines, on many, MANY vehicles (snowmobiles mostly, but yes, boats too). Probably thousands, by now. Seafoam is absolutely not necessary for maintaining carbon build up. Not in 4 strokes, not in 2 strokes. It's not necessary. Will it hurt the engine? Probably not. Does that "prove" it works? Absolutely not.


Well, this guy right here (me) has some pretty serious credentials too. Post these videos that you've seen. Post the pics of the inside of the combustion chanber after the "treatment" too. If you actually have a NEED to clean combustion chambers, the right "chemical" for that job is H2O.



Nicely said.
If you had posted it in that manner (I like it so I'm going to use it) then that is one thing. If the treatment treats your psychology...use it. Lot's of people follow lots of rituals to help themselves "feel better" (religion being one of those ritualistic things). So use it, and "feel better" about your combustion chambers. But don't post stuff that is technically wrong, as fact, and then try to back it up with "I heard it from a guy".

 

O.K. I hear you. Now hear me. If I had an engine w/8 stuck ring'ed pistons, and I got them all unstuck w/nothing other than oil changes and running....then how did you "prove" the saefoam unstuck your rings?? Ya ran the thing! THAT is what unstuck the rings! Since you also happened to use seafoam, you concluded that the seafoam fixed it.

Since religion was brought into this thread here is a similar line of thinking: I got up this morning and prayed that my car would run well, all day. It did. Therefor, praying ensures that your car will run well. Everyone should pray for the reliable operation of their car, each morning.

Does ^that ^ make sense? Of course it doesn't. Neither does the same process, applied to elixirs.



That is incredibly lame...everyone loses now.

 

The only product Ive found that gets rid of carbon build up in motors with 100% proof backing it up is gm top engine cleaner. Seeing the carbon on the ground behind the car is large black chunks is proof.

What I use to keep from needing the gm cleaner is techron gas. I have used techron additive with good results but those results are "the car went back to running correctly after adding it".

I have never seen large black chunks on the ground from techron so it doesn't have the shock and awe effect of the gm top engine cleaner

Never used seafoam that I know of. Course as old as I am I probably have and just don't remember trying it.

 

 

I find it pretty hard to believe some of the posts in this thread about engines with stuck rings somehow fixing themselves with ANY chemistry. A stuck ring wont seal (basically at all) which allows the fire of combustion gas to blow by the ring and burn the oil off the cylinder wall, resulting in metal transfer between the piston and cylinder, which results in the total destruction of the piston. This all happens in a matter of minutes, not hours or days or miles but minutes. Obviously this is not the same thing as worn out rings allowing oil into the combustion chamber, which can run for a very long time provided they don't run out of oil.

 

Also on the stuck ring thing I forgot to mention what most mechanics do to get compression back and attempt to get the rings working again. Transmission fluid.

Pour a small amount in each cylinder. Crank the motor and after running for a bit and burning the trans fluid out recheck for compression. Sometimes this will get things back working right on a motor that has sat for a long time. Its not a miracle cure by any means but its whats normally used.

Ive seen it get a motor to crank where it didn't have enough compression after sitting to start. Ive seen it not do squat either. So like I said its not a miracle cure but it does work from time to time.

Basically if the trans fluid doesn't get it going its rebuild time.

 

People will defend putting this in the crankcase because it is a "petroleum based product". I argue that so is gasoline, but you don't that in the oil. Put this in the oil and you run the risk of breaking down the oil coating on the rotating assembly.

Today's synthetic oils resist sludging. Today's top tier fuels are designed and refined to keep the fuel systems clean.

If you're having the issues this stuff is "supposed" to fix, you really need to put away the cans and bottles and break out the wrenches.

 

Yep, just like all car waxes.

 

I tried to buy GM top engine cleaner at the local Chevy dealer about 10 years ago. They told me they can't sell it in California.

 

They might be a little more relaxed on selling it now but who knows. California can be a pain on buying some things. You might be able to get it from gmpartsdirect.com


This is what replaced the original product.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/88861803

The original part number was 1050002 but it shows replaced by the one I linked to.

 

Amazon has it too.