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I am sure there will be opinions on my question. I have only been a Corvette (95 C-4) for a year and a half. I have never turned off the traction control, or made any other effort to see what an auto/lt-1 will do when pressed hard with reckless abandon.
My question is multi-fold. On dry pavement, does the Corvette break traction with the traction control turned off, with a pedal to the floor/ brake release? Same set-up, but dropping the trans from neutral to drive at elevated rpm? Is dropping to drive at elevated rpm a hazard to the trans, diff or other drive-line components on a well kept Corvette?
I am bumping my head on 60, so it's been quite some time since I smoked a set of tires ( like since my folks were paying for my stuff), but I would hate to hurt my Corvette because I did not at least attempt to learn from other's experience. Basically, how tough are these machines for occasional pounding?
Kelly
I think its a very bad idea to go from neutral into drive while RPMs are up. Pressing the brake and throttle at the same time to get RPMs up is a better way and a bit easier on parts. It will also smoke the tires. Just putting it in drive and nailing the throttle will smoke them. For racing a stock Vette, best start is from idle.
Same set-up, but dropping the trans from neutral to drive at elevated rpm? Is dropping to drive at elevated rpm a hazard to the trans, diff or other drive-line components on a well kept Corvette?
NEVER, EVER, do this to any car you like.
These cars can stand up to drag racing launches pretty regularly if you
don't do neutral drops, or burn-outs with one tire on pavement and one
tire on gravel, stuff like that.
Turn off the traction control on a smooth dry road and mat the pedal from
a stop. Hold on to the wheel with both hands
Same set-up, but dropping the trans from neutral to drive at elevated rpm? Is dropping to drive at elevated rpm a hazard to the trans, diff or other drive-line components on a well kept Corvette?
YES. It's very hard on your transmission. You'll eventually fold a sprag up or damage the case.
Don't do this.
If you want to launch: Preferably use low gear. (You get a little line pressure bump and the coast clutch backs up the forward sprag) Hold the brake and accelerate while releasing it, in a "hole shot" fashion.
Not that high power launches are good for any car, but a neutral drop will get you a expensive trip to the transmission shop in fairly short order.
Any drive train shock is going to cause wear or parts to fail. If you think about what all is getting the "shock", from flywheel to torque converter, to transmission internals, to drive shafts, to half shafts, to u joints, to rear end gears, to posi-traction friction plates/clutches, to wheel bearings, to lug nut studs, to wheels and finally to tires, with engine and transmission mounts somewhere in there as well. Wouldnt you rather NOT do it?
I think the most "friendly" way to abuse an automatic is to buy a higher stall speed torque converter. Then you get the perfect clutch drop every time you stomp on it from a stop lol. Doing a nuetral drop is pretty much the worst thing you can do to an automatic short of trying to get it to go into reverse at highway speeds which is probably impossible to do on a newer car. You are far better off power braking it.
Just remember you gotta pay to play. So if you plan to have some fun, plan to be replacing parts.