When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, dads vette needs a engine rebuild. We are loking to pick up a temp motor while we work on it. What year motors will bolt over? I already expect mounts, sensors, intake, front end. Is there anything the will work, or should we go another route?
The long block SBC 350 engine in the '84 is standard for many years! The only special features are the bolt-on parts: intake system (including the CFI), rocker covers, oil pan, distributor, a few sensors. These long blocks are so common you can probably find one completely rebuilt at less cost than rebuilding yours! Do a local search. You might be surprised! I ended up with a four-bolt mains engine when I did mine.
While it's apart, modify the intake manifold to match the ports to your heads. There are many suggestions on this forum about doing that mod.
Do the engine swap only one time that way! You don't even need to remove the hood!
Tip: Don't remove the CFI bodies from the top plate! You'll mess up the balance calibration between them. It looks like there's a bolt under the bodies, but the bolts at those two locations go thru the throttle bodies. Remove only the one bolt at the edge of each body.
Tip: Don't crack your magnesium valve covers.
Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; Dec 5, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
1st gen sbc 350 should all bolt up, 69 to 91. You may have to reuse your heads, intake, distributor, etc... (your sensors may need to work on 84 Corvettes)
86 and before are 2 piece rear main seals and 87 to 91+ Vortec truck engines had 1 piece. I would assume that most engines would come with their own flexplate or flywheel, because they are balanced with the rotating assembly.
Why the temporary engine? Are you concerned about retaining the original block so it matches the VIN?
Given the extra effort for two engine swaps, why not buy a short block? You can find a variety of quality GEN 1 short blocks for that era and then you only need to pull the old engine, install the parts and accessories from the old engine and re-install. But I would suggest that the old cylinder heads be checked out before you put them back on.
Why the temporary engine? Are you concerned about retaining the original block so it matches the VIN?
Given the extra effort for two engine swaps, why not buy a short block? You can find a variety of quality GEN 1 short blocks for that era and then you only need to pull the old engine, install the parts and accessories from the old engine and re-install. But I would suggest that the old cylinder heads be checked out before you put them back on.
good advice and not to be taken unless your really bucks down or want to keep numbers
86 and before are 2 piece rear main seals and 87 to 91+ Vortec truck engines had 1 piece. I would assume that most engines would come with their own flexplate or flywheel, because they are balanced with the rotating assembly.
your correct John but isn't there some sort of Converter problem? There is something in my mind that raises a red flag in the swap..heck, maybe its just hungry for a colts win.
You might be right about that. An older engine would have mated to a 350 or 400 turbo but the newer would have been bolted to a 700R4. I'm pretty sure the converters are different.
Last edited by johnnymo63; Dec 9, 2015 at 04:01 PM.
maybe one is a three bolt, bolt on and the other is a four bolt, bolt on?
Guys, converters have nothing to to w/the OP's question. The flex plate handles any converter issues. Flex plates are less than $50. Buy the motor you want, if it has the wrong flex plate for your converter, buy a flex plate. Simple.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Dec 10, 2015 at 12:03 AM.
84 crossfire engine compatability.
