I turn key on volts under 9 try start clicks starts shuts off
turn key clicking then starts sort of flooded
volts go to do 13
Any ideas

 

It sounds like your battery is either distressed or not charging properly. Running voltage should be in the neighborhood of ~13.8-14.2V. If yours is showing low 13's and is not under heavy accessory load, the alternator may be on its way out...but don't throw your wallet at a new one just yet. A slipping serpentine belt, for example, could cause poor charging. Inspect it and the tensioner for wear, along with your battery cables. You might be amazed how much crud can build up under there, and it can "grow" along up inside those large-gage wires.


Remove the battery and put it on a trickle charge overnight (this is important to do before testing for accuracy). In the morning, have a competent parts store jockey run a load test on your battery--they do it for free. If it registers as good, reinstall. Ensure the terminals are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Start her up and confirm alternator output with a digital multimeter, since dash displays have been known to fib. If you don't have a DMM, decent ones are pretty cheap and very handy, but if you're tight on cash, the parts store can check that for you too. If it's still showing low voltage, the alternator is probably your culprit.

 

I concur with what's been said: either a bad battery, or a parasitic draw for some reason.

Before a parts store can do the battery load test, a competent (operative word) tech will first fully charge the battery and then perform the load test, AND recharge the battery. Just drop it off and make sure they understand that procedure. (Took a couple hours, last time I has a battery checked and re-charged.)

Far as parasitic draw goes, you can do that on the vehicle, easy enough with a DVM configured to measure AMPERAGE. (Most will read up to 10A).

Note: Normal current draw, after some initial current surge when connecting the DVM (in 10A [typical] mode) to the battery, the current should settle to .025A to .050A range (25-50mA) - which is typical. More than that, you have something running that shouldn't be. You'll have to pull fused, one at a time until the high current draw is identified.

 

...And there are a bunch of fusible links that could be pulling current.

 

Yep left that out, good catch!