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Has anyone ever had problems getting a key made that will turn the ignition? I have read countless threads regarding the chip. The chip isn't the problem (it's resistance key #10 verified by the locksmith and dealership). Getting the key cut close enough to work is the issue.
The car was purchased used and only came with one key. That key recently broke off in the ignition. The car would start and run. We were able to recover the key and chip from the ignition without too much trouble. We have tried a locksmith and the dealership. None of the keys will turn the ignition. We were told that if the key is just a tiny bit off, it will not work. Do you guys have any suggestions on what we can do?
Try a different locksmith. There is a chart in Factory Service Manual which shows key cuts and if key is not heavily worn it should be able to be "read". Some older dealership parts people and locksmiths are good at reading them. I would call first. A key could be cut with key gun. It is possible ignition cylinder was replaced prior to you getting car which would explain factory key code not working. Either way you want to buy non chip blanks until you find key that will turn in cylinder. Last resort would be to have cylinder replaced. Make sure you get non chip blank to save in case you need another key in the future. Non chip blank is so key cuts can be traced on to VATS blanks.
For a '96 the dealer should be able to retrieve the ignition and door mechanical key information and also the VATS from GM. I would have the dealer get that information and compare the cuts of your broken key to the code of the GM information.
Check both door and ignition for operation. It wouldn't be unusual that the ignition cylinder has been replaced so the dealer information might not work.
If you retrieved the blade from your cylinder it may take a talented individual but the cuts should be able to be interpreted and duplicated on a new blank. If the blade of your key was a very worn "tracing" it becomes somewhat more difficult.
Have the GM dealer first try the information they can retrieve from GM.
The "non chip" that USER "Kevova" keeps mentioning is called a "work-key" The GM # for it is 26007687. A lock-smith will understand "work-key".
Thank you guys for the suggestions. The locksmith cut several non-chipped keys; I forgot to mention that. None work. I believe at least one key was cut with the GM information and not the original key. Now even the original key that broke off will not unlock the ignition. The broken key was carefully removed, but a wire was used to get the key out. I'm not sure if that somehow caused damage inside the ignition. If it was a tumble issue, would the key go all the way in? All keys go all the way down into the ignition. It just will not turn.
I messed around with it yesterday evening. Turned the steering wheel side to side as far as it will go, messed with the shifter, etc. Do you guys have any other suggestions other than changing out the ignition lock cylinder?
I'd like to add that the ignition key will not unlock the doors. There's apparently a separate key for that.
Last edited by Crissytal; Feb 24, 2016 at 12:42 PM.
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