C4 battery drain...maybe?
04-26-2017, 12:55 PM
#41
Instructor
First report: battery isn't fully charged yet. Only holding at 11 volts.
So I'm not sure why the battery tender light was a solid green the first hour. It's solid red now, and it's been about 24 hours. Going to give the charge another day and then we'll see.
I installed the battery into the Corvette just to see. The lights/dash turn on when I turn the key to ON, but when I try to start it everything dies - lights/dash turn off, no crank.
Research tells me a battery tender junior should charge a dead battery in about 35-45 hours. I need to get my glasses adjusted because I thought it'd be done in 6-8 hours
So I'm not sure why the battery tender light was a solid green the first hour. It's solid red now, and it's been about 24 hours. Going to give the charge another day and then we'll see.
I installed the battery into the Corvette just to see. The lights/dash turn on when I turn the key to ON, but when I try to start it everything dies - lights/dash turn off, no crank.
Research tells me a battery tender junior should charge a dead battery in about 35-45 hours. I need to get my glasses adjusted because I thought it'd be done in 6-8 hours
Ok, wait? Are you only charging the battery with a battery tender?
Battery Tenders are "Battery Tenders" They will maintain a charge. not really "Chargers." I mean they will do it. In like a month for some batteries.. But I would invest in a nice Battery Charger. I have 2 and a Battery Tender I could use if needed...
My Dad used to be a Battery Nut! he would use the magic potions and voodoo spells from every coo-koo and try to prolong g the life of a battery.
One of the things he discovered is that not all battery tenders are created equal... If the voltage drops too much some trickle chargers/tenders will up the voltage too high... in some cases 16 volts and at that high a voltage the gassing voltage will damage the battery. in some instances "Dangerously."
When a Battery is dead from too much draw like my kids left my dome light on in the "Family Truckster." I do not break out the battery Tender.. I break out a real honest battery charger... Set it on the 2 amp charge and leave overnight... 6 amp if I'm in a hurry but I like slow charging better...
Is there bulging on the sides of the battery? Can you see the fluid level on the side is not all the way to the top. An over-voltage battery will damage the zinc plating and thus you will not get a high storage voltage....
I would take the battery out... hook it up to a charger..IF and I mean IF you can get it to hold 13-12 volts.. bring it to an auto parts store and have it load tested... keep your mouth shut about using a trickle charger to charge it from dead, and begin paperwork to have it replaced...if out of warranty replace battery use old as core charge... if it happens again do not trickle charge it... Charge it with a charger and then begin the troubleshooting steps..
Good Luck...
05-08-2017, 01:41 PM
#42
Well after all my testing, it appears my battery was no good. It tested OK on my charger, and at Auto Zone. But a new battery appears to have fixed everything. Thank you to all the posters. At least I learned something through this adventure.
05-08-2017, 02:38 PM
#43
Advanced
NEW INFORMATION: YOU did use an ammeter (after all) and measure current, NOT voltage (between the motor and the battery) as was the impression I got. Well then...no worries. That (in a fashion) is how to do it.
For Clarification (et al) for those not familiar with electricity terminology, just think of it this way:
VOLTAGE = the measure unit of electromotive FORCE
AMPERE = the measure unit of CURRENT or electron flow
OHMS = the measure unit of RESISTANCE to current flow
The analogy is water: Voltage = water pressure, Amperes = the water flow (in the pipe), and Ohms = the amount of resistance to the flow, quantified by the amount of flow allowed for a specific amount of pressure (voltage).
It's NOT just "semantics"!
These terms are very specific and are NOT interchangeable.
So, when using or implying the wrong terms to describe a problem can (and often does) lead to confusion...Just saying.
Hope this helps someone?
For Clarification (et al) for those not familiar with electricity terminology, just think of it this way:
VOLTAGE = the measure unit of electromotive FORCE
AMPERE = the measure unit of CURRENT or electron flow
OHMS = the measure unit of RESISTANCE to current flow
The analogy is water: Voltage = water pressure, Amperes = the water flow (in the pipe), and Ohms = the amount of resistance to the flow, quantified by the amount of flow allowed for a specific amount of pressure (voltage).
It's NOT just "semantics"!
These terms are very specific and are NOT interchangeable. So, when using or implying the wrong terms to describe a problem can (and often does) lead to confusion...Just saying.Hope this helps someone?
This image shows a simple circuit with a battery (Volts) on the left, and a resistor (Ohms) on the right. The arrow represents the current flowing through the wires (Amps).
This image shows the same circuit with a voltmeter attached (usually via probe). This is what I mean by in parallel. Since all you have to do is find some exposed contacts to place your probes on, it is typically much easier to measure voltage than current.
This image shows the circuit with an ammeter attached in series. In order to read the current you have to actually break the circuit and connect your ammeter such that all current flows through it. Fuses make this a lot easier in cars (most electronics are pretty light on fuses).