When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks to the many threads I have read I was able to flush the coolant out the Rad and block by removing the KS. Now for the refill and was wondering if I should prime the block with coolant via the stat hole or is simply filling the rad and running and refilling just as good. Also not sure if I have to replace the KS. It was was messy and I wasn't really prepared for the river that would follow removing the KS lol.
If money is not an issue then replace the knock sensors.
In my not very humble opinion; you should remove the t-stat housing and fill the cooling system through the top of the intake , then run the car and top off the radiator and overflow tank, then your done.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; May 1, 2016 at 12:47 AM.
Reason: typo
If you have the Tstat removed then sure you can fill the block with coolant before reinstalling the stat. I don't think it really matters though.
I would look up the capacity for your cooling system, calculate the balance you want (coolant vs water), then do the math and add all the coolant first. E.g. if the system is 18 quarts and you want a 50/50 mix, add 9 quarts of straight coolant, then top off with distilled water. Because, you don't know how much water remains in the system after a flush. If you mix the coolant 50/50 before adding, that mix will be diluted more by the water still in the system and your mix will be wrong.
You can clean up that KS, use a wire brush. After brushing mine, I cleaned it further with a small file, just enough to get the crud off the flat end. When reinstalling, use a tiny bit of anti-seize and torque properly. Mine still work great.
If you have the Tstat removed then sure you can fill the block with coolant before reinstalling the stat. I don't think it really matters though.
I would look up the capacity for your cooling system, calculate the balance you want (coolant vs water), then do the math and add all the coolant first. E.g. if the system is 18 quarts and you want a 50/50 mix, add 9 quarts of straight coolant, then top off with distilled water. Because, you don't know how much water remains in the system after a flush. If you mix the coolant 50/50 before adding, that mix will be diluted more by the water still in the system and your mix will be wrong.
You can clean up that KS, use a wire brush. After brushing mine, I cleaned it further with a small file, just enough to get the crud off the flat end. When reinstalling, use a tiny bit of anti-seize and torque properly. Mine still work great.
Thank for the info on the KS. I cleaned it up a little with a soft brush but will do a bit more. The thought of having to order a new one and waiting another week for it to get here would be torture. I'll be refilling the coolant tonight and hoping to get it on the road by the weekend. Thanks for the technique which make sense and will give it a go.
Thank for the info on the KS. I cleaned it up a little with a soft brush but will do a bit more. The thought of having to order a new one and waiting another week for it to get here would be torture. I'll be refilling the coolant tonight and hoping to get it on the road by the weekend. Thanks for the technique which make sense and will give it a go.
No problem. I don't see any point in replacing a part that still works fine.
Also, some people will tell you not to add straight coolant, that you have to dilute it first then add it to the car after the mixing is done. This is true only in very cold environments where there is a real risk of freezing. The coolant and water added separately will eventually mix together inside your cooling system, it takes maybe 6-8 hours of run time at full temp. Many people have been doing it this way for years. I've always done this and never had any problems. The only times I've heard anyone cracking a block in freezing temperatures is when they added just water and no coolant.
If you look closely at a knock sensor you will notice that it is constructed out of two main pieces. There is the body of the sensor that threads into the block and there is a second piece (in the center) that has the six sided hex stamped into it. The body of the sensor is crimped over the edges of the second piece with the hex. In the event the crimped lip on the body of the sensor allows the center piece with the hex to rotate without the body of the sensor, then it will break internally, and regardless of other circumstances you will have to replace it. This can happen when your removing the sensor or reinstalling it. This brings me to my point; if you can see this happened then don't bother even trying to see if it will work, just get a new one.
Even more reason to use a small dab of anti-seize and torque them carefully. In the photo, notice that the red coating on the threads does not extend all the way - there are a couple bare threads at each end. This is how anti-seize should be applied, sparingly.
Coolant flushed finally.
