if my pointer is on the TDC mark and my rotor points to #1 terminal on cap is that TDC for #1 piston, or could it still be 180 out

 

If what you said is true then it would be on TDC at the start of the power stroke on cylinder # 1

 

If memory serves... the distributor gear is driven off the camshaft which runs at 1/2 the crankshaft's speed. If your timing mark is at TDC and your rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder's distributor contact (#1 cylinder is the front cylinder on the driver's side) you are at TDC for #1 cylinder.

(If you were 180° off, your rotor would be pointing in the opposite direction of #1 cylinder's distributor contact.)

 

Your memory serves !

 

Thanks. I thought so, but wanted to make sure. Im putting engine back together now, and this is my first time. Just for info I found engine machine shop ( extreme performance ) in Thrall Texas, that completely refurbished both my alum heads, mill, pressure check, 3 angle valve job, for 305.00 total. They only took 3 days to do work, and took time to talk with me on several occasions, to include tips on engine rebuilding. I have no connection with shop. It's a very clean shop, and the owner is a guy named Nick. I don't have very much experience with engine work , but it all looks good

 

i just did this on my own rebuild and i was 180 out.

first though, 305 for that is absolutely a steal. like, amazing. where i live its 1200 but i've already mentioned that to you.

your dizzy could absolutely still be 180 out.

you need to confirm that your #1 cyl is on the COMPRESSION STROKE while pointing at number 1 terminal and lined up on your timing mark.

this is very easy to do.

if you are now where you say you are, with all plugs out, rotate the engine backwards (counter clockwise) about 1/4 turn. put your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. now rotate the engine (with your thumb sealing the hole) (might need a friend, i just use my left arm) and you need to feel compression escaping past your thumb. continue pressing until the timing mark lines up with 0deg mark on the timing teeth, and NOW your ENGINE is at tdc. if your dizzy is stabbed right, your rotor will be pointing at terminal 1 location. you could be off a tooth so be carefull with that.

here are some videos to watch on this process.





there are many more.

in other words, just because your timing mark is lined up with the 0 mark, and your dizzy rotor is pointing at 1 terminal, doesn't mean you are the ENGINES tdc. you need to determine tdc at the COMPRESSION stroke. which you use your thumb do to. cheers.

 

Are you saying that with the timing marks lined up (meaning the piston is at TDC) and the rotor lined up with the correct terminal on the dist cap (#1) that it could be at the end of the exhaust stroke, beginning the intake stroke ??

 

Are you asking how to install a distributor ?? Or are you trying to figure out what stroke your on for a different reason such as setting valve lash ?? ?

 

you can also watch your lifters. if both are down and pointer is on zero, you got it. Do NOT stick your finger in the spark plug hole, just cover it. You WILL know when compression stroke comes up. Glad to see someone getting their hands dirty, it improves this forum,

 

[QUOTE=Amotoxracer;1592349828]Are you saying that with the timing marks lined up (meaning the piston is at TDC) and the rotor lined up with the correct terminal on the dist cap (#1) that it could be at the end of the exhaust stroke, beginning the intake stroke ??[/QUOTE


the piston comes up twice so yah. need to be compression stoke.

 

hes right if u can get your finger in lol dont. just seal the hole.

 

Ok so it sounds like we need the original poster to clarify exactly what he's asking.

If #1 is at tdc and the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal then it has to be on the compression stroke. If it were on the exhaust stroke then the rotor wouldn't be pointing at # 1. This is where you want to be if your setting valve lash on #1.

Now with all that said, if your trying to install the distributor then you better be certain that #1 is on the compression stroke because the rotor could be anywhere since you haven't installed it yet, but that's not what the original poster stated. So the best way to do that is either using your finger over the plug hole or observe the lifters or the rocker arms as your bringing the timing marks around to tdc. Then install the dist with the rotor pointing at #1.

 

I'm getting close to adjusting lifters so I am trying to figure best way. I was told to do it before putting on intake and watching lifters to see open and close positions. If I do that I will be rotating engine without distributer in. When I took distributer out, I made sure rotor was pointing at #1 and mark was at TDC. I was wanting to know if it could be still be 180 out. I'm still trying to figure out in my head as to when I know for sure the lifters are in the correct position for adjustment, and should I do it with intake on or off. If I do it with intake on before rotating engine I can just drop the distributer back in.

 

If you can see when a lifter is on the lowest part of a cam lobe (so valve would be closed), that's the adjustment point for that valve. No need to go by degrees of rotation as long as you can see the cam. When it comes time to line things up to put the distributor back in, just be sure the crankshaft is in the TDC position where both valves are closed, and not the other TDC position.

 

Ok so forget about how you had the distributor "lined up" before you took it out. Your going to need to rotate the engine and since you have the intake off as well as the valve covers then reinstalling the distributor will be a breeze. Adjust your valves before you install the intake.



Everything in the above quote is correct. I would also add that by watching the lifters its easier to make the distinction about when its safe to set valve lash. So, rotate your engine and watch the lifters on whatever cylinder your starting with, and pay attention to when the INTAKE VALVE CLOSES, once this happens you rotate it a bit further (approximatly a quarter turn). This brings the piston up into the compression stroke and the lifters on the cam heel. then set the lash ON BOTH VALVES for that cylinder. Repeat for each cylinder. Once your done, go back to #1, assure both valves are closed, bring your timing marks around, install the intake, then install the distributor with the rotor pointed at the #1 terminal in the cap. Keep in mind the distributor wont necessarily seat itself into the hole all the way if the oil pump drive isn't lined up, so you might need to use a long screwdriver to turn the pump drive to the right spot before the distributor can drop into place. In conclusion this process sounds more difficult than it is ....

 

Sounds like a plan, thanks