dizwiz24

i got some wilcox corvette (corvette rubber company brand) inner door perimeter replacement weatherstripping for my 1993.

i see the current ones have factory applied black 'butyl-style' weatherstripping adhesive.

i plan to remove that and reapply it in the same areas

one important question though:

should the door be opened (no pressure) or closed (pressure) when the new weatherstrip and adhesive is allowed to dry?

any other tips are appreciated !

i had good luck with this brand (corvette rubber company Made in USA) when i did the windshield header weatherstripping. i also applied silicone later (after everything dried) to protect it

Joe C

it's been some time since i did door weather stripping, but as I recall, there are a series of push pins (sides and bottom) and a few M4.2 screws (each end-upper side), w/ very little adhesive. I may have used adhesive in the area around the M4.2 screws, but not much. the adhesive dries fairly fast, and I don't recall any wait period. i just installed the weather stripping, and shut the door. plenty of on-line info from vendors - google "install door weather stripping c4 corvette" -

Dt86

^ this. It's pretty straight forward. Just put adhesive where the factory did.

RayTremblay

Agreed. 3M makes a great weather strip adhesive that dries pretty quickly. Apply to both sides, let tack up, stick down and move on. Very strait forward. Wil take you longer to clean up the old factory glue (Which is key to good adhesion) than it will to nail down your new weather striping.

dizwiz24

just did this. used the corvetter rubber company (made in usa) brand from wilcox - which i recommend

i put 3m black weatherstripping adhesive glue where the factory had it.

i did run into one weird oddball issue.

my windshield header weatherstrip was coated with dielectric grease (as a preservant).

when the windshield header weatherstrip contacted the top front corner of the door weatherstrip (by the side mirror), it must have transferred some dielectric grease to the new door seal weatherstrip - but not uniformly.

those areas swelled and gave the new weatherstrip some 'ragged' appearance (vs. smooth)

i smeared more clear dielectric grease on the new weatherstripping hoping it evens out.

so i guess my advice is if you have dielectric grease on your windshield header, you might want to also coat your newly installed door weatherstrip with dielectric grease before you close the door for the first time (with you new weatherstrip)

Kevova

3M weatherstrip adhesive is very good. It can be a "tar baby" to deal with. You will want rubber gloves and a good prep agent. "Acrysol,"does a good job.

crowz

I just redid mine using steele rubber products weatherstripping :

http://www.steelerubber.com/84-89-co...als-70-3678-72

$85 for both doors was a nice price and wasn't hard to install.

I put a thin bead of 3m adhesive around it but the pins do most of the holding.

colter

Did that weatherstripping change the seal on the glass to the A and B pillar weatherstripping? i.e. a new leak past the window that wasn't there before?

Also looks like the Steele door seal version has some type of washers? Is that for the screws?

crowz

The one I bought goes around the side and bottoms of the door. Doesn't really effect the glass area.

Door was hard to close after install but when I opened and closed the door the next day it was perfect.

colter

On the Steele Rubber you used. Did the ends have a metal frame inside it like how the OEM piece had a plastic frame inside?

And any problems on install?

I installed the CRC door weatherstripping. But I noticed the pins were not in the same place of the OEM latex piece when held side by side. And I had to stretch it on several pins to get them lined up with the holes.

Big problem is the pins not in the right location caused the end by the windshield to have too much slack. So with it screwed in, it sticks up like 1/2". The back end has a little too much slack as well and pushes out some. But that isn't too big a deal since the door shutting would fix it. But you can't glue it though since the end will move in with the door shutting since it sticks out cause of extra slack.

HAD2HAV2

I have a question on the door weather strip. In 1998, I replaced the door weather strip with GM rubber on my 88. I found that the holes that go around the door were the blue pins go did not provide a snug fit. They were loose. I ended up having to use a lot of adhesive. I need to do this job again after re-painting. If I run into the same problem do I need to bondo/fiberglass gel the hole shut and drill them out to the exact size?

crowz

These didn't have any frame to them at all which was weird. The ones I took off had a tab at the end but that was all.

colter

I think some kind of frame on the ends is necessary. If the rubber rips at the screw hole, then there is nothing there for the screw to screw onto to keep the ends screwed down other than glue if you glue them. Also the frame gives additional support on the ends which will probably get the most stress.

crowz

I still have one I haven't installed yet for the passenger door. I can double check it for framing but I don't think it had any.