New Radiator?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
New Radiator?
So it appears my radiator is rusted out inside and I need to replace it. Noticed temp rising more than usual and when I went to inspect....brown liquid (rust) had spewed out of radiator cap onto the engine. I've priced a stock radiator at $100 but was told that I should look into the Engineered Cooling Product radiator. The aftermarket is nice and is a 2-row but is it really worth the extra $150 or so....or is stock good enough? Thanks
Last edited by czarredd; Jun 14, 2016 at 02:01 PM.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 549
Likes: 13
From: Richmond VA
If it is not leaking or clogged up I would say it probably needs a good flush. The radiator has nothing that will rust, alum and plastic so the rust is coming from somewhere else (block, heads, water pump). Rust in its self will cause temp to go up.
If the radiator is bad and the stock one worked well I see no need.
If the radiator is bad and the stock one worked well I see no need.
Last edited by blue94; Jun 14, 2016 at 02:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
If it is not leaking or clogged up I would say it probably needs a good flush. The radiator has nothing that will rust, alum and plastic so the rust is coming from somewhere else (block, heads, water pump). Rust in its self will cause temp to go up.
If the radiator is bad and the stock one worked well I see no need.
If the radiator is bad and the stock one worked well I see no need.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 103
From: Peoria Arizona.. Resident Gold Cylon
So it appears my radiator is rusted out inside and I need to replace it. Noticed temp rising more than usual and when I went to inspect....brown liquid (rust) had spewed out of radiator cap onto the engine. I've priced a stock radiator at $100 but was told that I should look into the Engineered Cooling Product radiator. The aftermarket is nice and is a 2-row but is it really worth the extra $150 or so....or is stock good enough? Thanks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
Unless you have modified your engine, like stroked it, done major head work etc. a 2 row OEM factory replacement is good enough. Over time the plastic ends tend to swell on these radiators anyway and the C4 is a well known nose vacuum that sucks in all types of road debris, like leaves, plastic bags and dirt, sand and silt that's builds up in between the cooling fins. I would suggest at a minimum to flush the radiator and pull it to hose off all the debris and clean off the front of the radiator as much as possible if money is tight. Since the radiator is already X years old I would suggest replacing it with the OEM replacement option, clean out the radiator bay area and load in plenty of new green stuff
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 103
From: Peoria Arizona.. Resident Gold Cylon
If all you are seeing is gunk and rusty water then yes you should be a little concerned and a flush should take care of your problem. However the cooling issue still might be debris in front of the radiator blocking efficient airflow. You have a couple of areas to look into. Refill with 50% green coolant and 50% distilled water after cleaning. I suggest while you are there take your radiator cap to the auto parts store and have them do a leak test on it as well.
Last edited by Goldcylon; Jun 14, 2016 at 03:24 PM.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 59
From: Trieste Italy
So it appears my radiator is rusted out inside and I need to replace it. Noticed temp rising more than usual and when I went to inspect....brown liquid (rust) had spewed out of radiator cap onto the engine. I've priced a stock radiator at $100 but was told that I should look into the Engineered Cooling Product radiator. The aftermarket is nice and is a 2-row but is it really worth the extra $150 or so....or is stock good enough? Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,467
Likes: 3,288
From: Hartford WI
Why do you keep spoiling the fun. I had to learn the hard way so let him learn what not to do.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,467
Likes: 3,288
From: Hartford WI
Before I reinstall, I would take a garden hose, less the golf ball and send water through both the ports in the lower block. You'd have to take the Knock sensor off and there is another port that sends coolant to the oil cooler that has to come off too. Flush, drain, repeat until the thing comes out clean and then flush once more.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
So after lots or reading and you guys awesome wisdom.....I'm going to attempt a full super flush myself. My only concern is jacking car up and using jack stands....I've always been a little leary about there safety. Any alternatives to jack stands besides going to the shop and getting the corvette tax?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,467
Likes: 3,288
From: Hartford WI
So after lots or reading and you guys awesome wisdom.....I'm going to attempt a full super flush myself. My only concern is jacking car up and using jack stands....I've always been a little leary about there safety. Any alternatives to jack stands besides going to the shop and getting the corvette tax?
I think a lot of shops that don't want to work on a car just simply tack a ridiculous number to get rid of the customer.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
I'm not sure how you would get the block level unless you put 4 jack stands otherwise if you flush it, the crud slips to the back of the block. I haven't had too many issues with the Corvette tax since I shop around and make sure that the book times are what they say they are or I walk.
I think a lot of shops that don't want to work on a car just simply tack a ridiculous number to get rid of the customer.
I think a lot of shops that don't want to work on a car just simply tack a ridiculous number to get rid of the customer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,467
Likes: 3,288
From: Hartford WI
BTW, check that your fans are operating right. I found that in stop and go traffic and 85 outside, the temp was approaching 240 or so. Thought that wasn't right with the DeWitts radiator so I checked the fans. Apparently the relay holder was not put in properly and the relays were not connected. Connected them and now the temps are midway in stop and go traffic. Must have been left out the last time the cowl was taken off for inspection and cleaning by the mechanic.
I'd fire the mechanic but since it is me, I'd give him a pass.
I'd fire the mechanic but since it is me, I'd give him a pass.