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C4 power window problem

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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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Default C4 power window problem

Hey guys, as you can see I am new to to the forum. so forgive me if this was answered elsewhere. I tried doing a search and didnt see anything so here goes.

I recently got my 1986 C4 convertible back from the shop to have a rebuilt instrument cluster placed in. and now I have 2 issues 1. when I got it back, now the passenger power window doesn't work. it doesn't make any noise. any hints as to where to start? the power window motor a switch? 2. after the new instrument cluster was installed now the horn goes off constantly for a secuirty breach. the security system was bypassed at some time by a previous owner. do I now have to have something reset ? as of now I just unhooked the horn.

thanks in advance.
Sam
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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For the window motor try slamming the door hard a couple times. Sounds crude but sometimes it works
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
For the window motor try slamming the door hard a couple times. Sounds crude but sometimes it works
Nowhere Man.....does this mean you think it may just be a motor problem? it doesn't make any sounds at all. I just picked the car up from the mechanic and it didnt work. it did the last time I had the car out. but I will try that. it surely cant hurt. as a side note, not sure if this is relevant. the same doors auto lock never worked since I got the car last year. could they be related?

Thanks
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 07:55 PM
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by chance he didnt work in the fuse block?
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by yoebuff
After the new instrument cluster was installed now the horn goes off constantly for a security breach. The security system was bypassed at some time by a previous owner. Do I now have to have something reset ? As of now I just unhooked the horn.
Are you sure it's the security system that is causing the horn to blow? Does the horn blow continuously, or does it alternate on and off? If continuously, it's not the s/s. Does the car still have a Security module? If the s/s is working, you should have a blinking Security Warning light displayed on your center cluster, and you should NOT be able to start the engine.

Since you didn't mention these problems, I suspect something else is causing your horn to blow. Your horn relay is probably hot, because of this problem, which will drain your battery. The horn relay is located behind the center cluster display.

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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
Are you sure it's the security system that is causing the horn to blow? Does the horn blow continuously, or does it alternate on and off? If continuously, it's not the s/s. Does the car still have a Security module? If the s/s is working, you should have a blinking Security Warning light displayed on your center cluster, and you should NOT be able to start the engine.

Since you didn't mention these problems, I suspect something else is causing your horn to blow. Your horn relay is probably hot, because of this problem, which will drain your battery. The horn relay is located behind the center cluster display.

Hot Rod. I was able to confirm that it is the security system. the horn blows intermittently. so first off the power window issue has been fixed. so thanks to the other post Nowhere man. banging a few times did loosen it.

NOW, as to the horn problem a few more things I found out. there is a clicking sound behind the dash console. that sound is the same timing as of the horn was blowing. ( if you recall I disconnected the horn) so now all I have is that clicking sound. whenever I depress the horn on the steering wheel it stops the clicking sound. as as soon as I leave up off the horn it continues. I do not see any security light flashing on the console. the car still starts and drives. if you recall I was told that someone before me did disarm the securoty system and the special chip key is no longer needed. how they accomplished that I do not know. the only thing that was done was a new instrument cluster was installed. so do I need to reset something that a new instrument cluster would have reactivated?
Thanks

Last edited by yoebuff; Aug 5, 2016 at 12:34 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by yoebuff
NOW, as to the horn problem a few more things I found out. there is a clicking sound behind the dash console. that sound is the same timing as of the horn was blowing. ( if you recall I disconnected the horn) so now all I have is that clicking sound. whenever I depress the horn on the steering wheel it stops the clicking sound. as as soon as I leave up off the horn it continues.
Okay, that tells me you still have the security module in the car. The PO apparently found a way to bypass the feature that prevents you from starting the car if the s/s is actuated, probably at the Starter Interrupt Relay! Your '86 might be different than my '84, but try this:

Three ways to reset:
1. Unlock either door using door key from the outside.
2. Remove neg. battery cable for about 15 sec.
3. Disconnect this connector, located below your brake booster. Note the two wire colors don't match.

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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
Okay, that tells me you still have the security module in the car. The PO apparently found a way to bypass the feature that prevents you from starting the car if the s/s is actuated, probably at the Starter Interrupt Relay! Your '86 might be different than my '84, but try this:

Three ways to reset:
1. Unlock either door using door key from the outside.
2. Remove neg. battery cable for about 15 sec.
3. Disconnect this connector, located below your brake booster. Note the two wire colors don't match.


Hot Rod...wow Thanks !!!! I tried all three. I am not sure if one worked or it was the combination of the doing all three but it worked! that took care of the problem. especially thanks for the pic, I would have never found that connector without it.
Thanks a bunch!!!

Last edited by yoebuff; Aug 5, 2016 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 08:07 PM
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My '93 passenger side was not working. Removed switch and cleaned it using electronic cleaner as I moved switch. Works fine now. Willdo this on my passenger seat switch soon.
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by scotth48
My '93 passenger side was not working. Removed switch and cleaned it using electronic cleaner as I moved switch. Works fine now. Willdo this on my passenger seat switch soon.
Thanks Scott. I was able to get the window working by banging as previously suggested but I will keep your tip in mind. Im finding a lot of contact problems with this. my guess is because it is a convertible and over the years through rain or what ever, the interior had got wet at some point.
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 03:36 PM
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My 2c: My '95 driver side window decided to quit, then work once, quit again and finally just died. I'd had a problem with the switch before and tried cleaning it again but this did not fix the issue. Turned out to be the window lift motor. Like the old frozen starter motors banging on it made it work while I was removing it.

I was unable to find a decent YouTube video for the procedure so I just dove in. Let me just say this:

It's a bitch.

The window works now. Wish I'd recorded all my trials and tribulations. Suffice it to say, if I can fix it, you can too.
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 12:56 PM
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FYI for others, this can also be that the window motor has really failed, door slamming will not fix.

I ran into this myself, had to pull door panel, etc. I found my motors had magnets glued to the can and the glue had failed, magnets were on the armature. Hard for a motor to work that way.

yoebuff, 1984 to early 1986 had a poorly designed window regulator, known to fail quickly. Not sure if your problem was related to that. Pain to verify but worth it (unless it's paid mechanic, they like to charge high for these power windows).

Do a forum search to find more info.
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kael
FYI for others, this can also be that the window motor has really failed, door slamming will not fix.

I ran into this myself, had to pull door panel, etc. I found my motors had magnets glued to the can and the glue had failed, magnets were on the armature. Hard for a motor to work that way.

yoebuff, 1984 to early 1986 had a poorly designed window regulator, known to fail quickly. Not sure if your problem was related to that. Pain to verify but worth it (unless it's paid mechanic, they like to charge high for these power windows).

Do a forum search to find more info.
Kael....thanks for that tip. I will check up on a "window regulator" there are somethings I can do myself but then others I need to bring in a mechanic. I do know this vehicle does have electrical issues that I have been chasing. so anything electrical like that I will be mindful of. that door does have a bad power door lock so I know I do have issues in there. its just that didn't bother me yet. Its too easy to just reach over and manually unlock. these issues really bothered me however when they worked fine before taking into a mechanic to fix the console cluster. but it turned out to be coincidence. the window just stuck and I did have to rest everything due to the new instrument cluster.
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