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hello, just jointed looking for some suggestions. I just bought a 86 C4, TPI, 4+3, 35,000orignal miles, crazy awesome shape, BUT, hooked up a battery (and got nothing). NO POWER ANYWHERE, AT ALL. ALSO, the car will NOT shift out of reverse.
Guy I bought it from said it was 100% before he parked it and let it sit under some pine trees for 8 years. It sat in very damp conditions. mold and algae everywhere.
I do believe the guy that it WAS 100%, so what might be going on here? any ideas on where to start. mike
the fuseasble link is under the battery tray, make sure its not burnt. Secondm make sure the battery isn't broken inside of its case...jumper cables will do the trick for that.. hook them up, quickly touch them together( battery not hooked up to car).sparks should fly. check battery connections at both ends..espically the ground. First series of test is to make sure power supply is available to the system. That done, problems are narrowed down.
thanks man, I just got it this weekend, so I spent the weekend scrubbing off 8 years of neglect, have not really cracked her open yet. I only spent a grand on it, so im not getting excited, any thoughts on the 4+3 being stuck in reverse.mike
I have no knowledge of 4+3 trannys and I do not wish to show my ignorance on them. Lots of guys in here will help, a few even borderline experts. give them a bit of time to respond. You will find 3 types in here on those trannys..people love them or hate them, then many like me, never had one.
the fuseasble link is under the battery tray, make sure its not burnt. Secondm make sure the battery isn't broken inside of its case...jumper cables will do the trick for that.. hook them up, quickly touch them together( battery not hooked up to car).sparks should fly. check battery connections at both ends..espically the ground. First series of test is to make sure power supply is available to the system. That done, problems are narrowed down.
Be careful not to arc the battery while it's hooked up to the car. It can burn out the digital dash.
What an awesome resource this is, I figured out the shifting problem, if I jiggle the key AND jiggle the shifter at the same time, I WILL shift out of reverse and shift normally. It must be the interlock cable , I guess it gives others issues too. Now , I will work on the power issue. Thank vette people. Mike
What an awesome resource this is, I figured out the shifting problem, if I jiggle the key AND jiggle the shifter at the same time, I WILL shift out of reverse and shift normally. It must be the interlock cable , I guess it gives others issues too. Now , I will work on the power issue. Thank vette people. Mike
thats a great price. ive been looking for a cheapm4+3
keep us updated
I "think" the positive battery cable goes directly to the starter solenoid. From there there is a "secondary" cable that feeds power back to the rest of the car. If you can get the car in the air (safety first) I'd check and clean that connection at the starter.
Also consider that battery cables on the car can go bad by internal corrosion. And since your car sat in a damp environment this is entirely possible. They can look ok from the outside but be pretty messed up under the sheath. Testing would consist of measuring the voltage drop across the cable. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals then measure the voltage at the starter end of the cable. Should be within a tenth of a volt or so using a Digital Multi-Meter.
I "think" the positive battery cable goes directly to the starter solenoid. From there there is a "secondary" cable that feeds power back to the rest of the car.
That was changed in '86. The positive cable still goes directly to the starter solenoid but the rest of the car runs off the "jumper block" behind the battery. Almost all of the fusible links come from there. The exceptions are:
•there is a fusible link on the starter solenoid that goes to the HVAC blower motor through the BCM (Blower Control Module) or blower resistors/relay.
•there is a fusible link off the battery positive terminal for the ECM and fuel pump that goes through the ECM power connector.
That was changed in '86. The positive cable still goes directly to the starter solenoid but the rest of the car runs off the "jumper block" behind the battery. Almost all of the fusible links come from there. The exceptions are:
•there is a fusible link on the starter solenoid that goes to the HVAC blower motor through the BCM (Blower Control Module) or blower resistors/relay.
•there is a fusible link off the battery positive terminal for the ECM and fuel pump that goes through the ECM power connector.
Thanks Cliff for clearing that up. I should know that since I have an '86 but its been running reliably now for awhile (knocks on wooden head for luck) so I haven't had to trouble shoot an electrical problem in awhile.
So OP check your cables and the fusible links that Cliff described and let us know.
Be careful not to arc the battery while it's hooked up to the car. It can burn out the digital dash.
Good to see you posting again, Ghoast.
You know you can check out fusible links without even having a battery in the car. Take your meter, set it for ohms and have at it. Unless something is on a switched circuit, you can check for continuity through any fusible link. Unless it shows open, you should be ok.
A grand.....Damn.......There was a C4 across the river from me that had some nice "spinner" hub caps on it for 15....Right place, wrong buyer.......I would start with the cables from the battery to the starter and body. And work my way from there....Just ask here