Dpkeefe11

Hello everyone. So far I have been overwhelmed by the support from the members on this website.

Anyway I feel like a dumbass. I sort of rushed into buying this car.... now I know nothing is perfect from 1986, but I'm a little nervous with this one.

My car stalled and shut off today in reverse, then once more in slow traffic, and sometimes when it idles it idles rough, rougher than the stereotypical corvette idle.

It is also lower on gas than normal, I let it run to the reserve tank just to see how it runs. So I think that may be a factor.

If it is rough because it is low on fuel could that mean it needs a fuel pump? I was really nervous to hear it idle so rough and downright scared when it stalled. I'm 19 I saved all my money for this car and I will just be devastated if it's one that I'll never be able to fix.

I don't want a super speed demon, I just want it up to par so I can take care of it and make it real pretty. My dad owns a 76 I think it would be so cool if I owned the 86 and he owned the 76.

Also I just noticed something under it is zip tied!! The previous owner claims to have no idea. I asked him to please tell me what it is so I don't have to spend time diagnosing it, but he is pretending he does not know what it is. What an *******. I wish I had my dad come look at it with me instead I surprised him by pulling in the driveway with a corvette I figured we could both work on.

I can't get under the car right now so I will take a picture of the zip tie and maybe I could get some help.

I am not going to give up on this car, I know together him and I could pull this off and make it run almost like new and get it looking real nice.


I was hoping I would need to do minimal engine and tranny work and I could spend my time getting it painted and working on the interior but now it does not seem so. I am praying this guy didn't pass one over on me.

When I was buying it the thing must have been idling for 15 or 20 minutes without sputtering, that's what leads me to belive it may be caused by the low fuel. I will fill her and see how she sounds. I really appreciate the help. I know me and my dad can make this thing almost like new.

In general my goal is to get it close to factory, I do not want to add all kinds of power, I just want it to go back to looking very beautiful, which will be a large project in itself so I am hoping the work on the drive train will be minimal.

Excuse me if it sounds like I don't know what I'm talking about, this is my first car that I own that will need work and I understand the 350 l98 is not really a good car to learn on, it's probably more like a car someone who knows cars well should work on.

Anyway I'm real nervous about the rough idle and stall and I will be so greatful more than you can know to get some insight.

Thank everyone - Dan

1993C4LT1

Rough idle causes:
Vacuum leaks(bad rubber lines)

Low fuel pressure, hook up a fuel pressure gauge to find out

Do you have a service engine light? If so, scan the codes. Use a paper clip. Google how to do it, it's easy.

I had a super weird idle problem on my car. It would either great, or horrible. Turning the AC on would stall it. new idle air control valve fixed that. Not saying that's your problem. You need to diagnose first.

antfarmer2

and add change the fuel filter.

Dpkeefe11

I do not have any check lights. I will use a fuel pressure gauge to check that makes sense to me, But that AC problem seems like it could be it too! cause the only time it stalled was when my ac was on! so that very well could be it. ill have to take a look and thank you both very much. i would not have been able to think of it without you guyses help.

aklim

I wish newcomers to the forum would fill out their profile. We aren't going to try find out where you are and come rob you. If we know where you are, someone might be able to recommend a facility or come over to take a peek or lend a tool, etc, etc.

I don't like the paperclip method because it is cheap and easy and thus pretty low on information. If you want to keep this car, best get yourself some sort of scanner to read data from the ECM. Also, you need to get the factory shop manual. The code reader is only good for grossly out of spec readings. As long as they are not, it won't trip a code.

You need to go to an Autozone or someplace with a scanner. There are some odd years the scanner cannot work on but I don't know what they are. Best is the Tech 1 that is sold on ebay or someone who wants to get rid of one. Also borrow a fuel pressure gauge and timing light.

Disconnect the tan wire connector and check timing, it should be about 6 degrees. If so, reconnect wire. Turn the engine off, wait for a few minutes, hook up fuel pressure gauge. Turn to run but not crank and see what the pressure is. Tape gauge to glass and remove the hose to the fuel pressure regulator and do a Wide Open Throttle run. Find out what the pressure is at WOT, go home and park car and see what the pressure is and how long it holds. Should be holding overnight. Before you shutdown for the night, let the engine run in a garage in the dark and spray a fine mist AROUND the wires to see if there is any arcing. If there is, you need new wires. How are the plugs and cap and rotor?

Dpkeefe11

Ok I will fill out my profile today. Sorry about the double post I didn't notice it takes a mod to read then post so I thought my original did not get posted.


Anyway. I think the check engine light is not showing because it is disconnected. I only see the fasten seatbelt light upon starting the car.

I live in Blackstone ma btw if that helps. I will fill out my profile more. Thank you

antfarmer2

Look on youtube and see how to check codes with a paperclip.

aklim

Typical of the PO. That or the bulb burned. Still, I'd use the scanner and get the data you need. More complete and will work even if the bulb is burned or disconnected.

1993C4LT1

To tell if the bulb is bad or, disconnected, put the key in the ON position. If you don't see it come on momentarily, it's bad or disconnected. But yes, a scan tool would be ideal. Although, if you have a code. Say a code for the EGR. At least you have something to diagnose.

aklim

You are going to need one sooner or later so why not sooner? But either way, I would definitely suggest going to an Autozone or O'Riley's that has a scanner to borrow. Might speed up things till he gets up to speed.

mickey5

My local Autozone doesn't have an OBD 1 tester. they say the technology is too old. LOL

aklim

If you cannot borrow one, I suggest you try to borrow an older one or get it from ebay. That or you will be spending money throwing parts at it. I wish we were not so far apart or I'd lend you one of mine.