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When he had the car (93), my father really liked adjusting the system to driving conditions. Personally, I've heard both ways but I haven't noticed a lot of difference (if any) when running through the settings. This said, though, I'm not sure the system has worked correctly since I've had the car. One of the things on my list is to check the controllers on the shock towers to see if they actually perform the adjustments when the system is actuated.
Best,
Jerry
Last edited by gdgeorge; Aug 31, 2016 at 10:35 AM.
One of the best ways to feel the difference in settings is to get out on the interstate one with a concrete surface that you can feel the seams and go thru the settings at posted speeds, you will be able to tell if it changes.
cool - so I just need to get her out on the interstate at speed and turn the dial and see if it feels any different - after of course inspecting the shocks see if they have controllers on them. thanks.
Yes the switch makes a difference. The FX3 adjustable ride suspension is an effective system. As the shocks bound and rebound, the fluid inside travels (through orifices) from one chamber to the other. Basically the FX3 system makes the orifices larger or smaller, which changes the fluid flow rate, which changes the damping rate.
Larger holes = more flow = softer shocks.
Smaller holes = less flow = stiffer shocks.
My first corvette was a Green 1995 base coupe which had the FX3 system, also had the heavy duty suspension. On the PERF setting it was borderline abusive on all but the smoothest roads. Even the TOUR setting was pretty stiff. Not sure why they put these two options together, except for tracking/autox. And I'm not sure if all FX3 models have the HD suspension... hopefully not!
My 91 with 78k it seems to work though not a fix all solution as shocks and springs are closely linked to each other. When I go from one to another the car gets stiffer and less body roll and certainly can feel it on an interstate with expansion joints. Biggest change was to slightly upsize the rear sway bar from the soft FX3 one along with heim joint links.
If there is something wrong with the system that the onboard controller checks, you should see a "Service Ride Control" light in the DIC. Some owners of C4's with the FX3 Selective Ride Control System that had seen problems simply removed the bulb behind that error message. When you turn the ignition to ON but don't start the engine, do you see the SRC light? It should go off once the engine is started and the car travels forward through 3-4 MPH.
I would suggest getting the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year C4. The manual will have a section devoted to the Selective Ride Control System. It will describe the system and step-by step procedures for diagnosing and repair of each of the 34 possible error codes.
I need to review the car closer but in our real world do you all think at 94,000 miles the system would still be working??
No, I would think at least one actuator has broken inside, or a shock is leaking. Had my shocks rebuilt at 70k, and have replaced an actuator. Problem is, every time you start the car, it cycles the shocks which wears the stupid plastic gears (should of been metal) more about miles and number of starts vs years. You can get revalved stiffer shocks, and reprogrammed controllers, see DRM. I never thought it was a huge difference, but helps on bad roads. At a certain higher speed all the settings are the same.
No, I would think at least one actuator has broken inside, or a shock is leaking. Had my shocks rebuilt at 70k, and have replaced an actuator. Problem is, every time you start the car, it cycles the shocks which wears the stupid plastic gears (should of been metal) more about miles and number of starts vs years. You can get revalved stiffer shocks, and reprogrammed controllers, see DRM. I never thought it was a huge difference, but helps on bad roads. At a certain higher speed all the settings are the same.
Well I'm not so sure this is an issue as they are constantly cycling as you drive. If you read some of the posted links on how they work you will find they also adjust with speed. I will agree as they get older in combination with heat the plastic gets brittle.
Well I'm not so sure this is an issue as they are constantly cycling as you drive. If you read some of the posted links on how they work you will find they also adjust with speed. I will agree as they get older in combination with heat the plastic gets brittle.
IIRC, there is a company that makes a replacement for that plastic controller sprocket. I believe it was Marc Haibeck that has the lead on that part. But, the actuator is constantly "tweaking" the settings as speed fluctuates. And, too, a concrete road with expansion joints is the easiest way to immediately see the effect of the different settings