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The brakes in my '86 coupe with 45K miles felt spongy and required excessive pedal pressure.
I had the fluid flushed to bleed out residual air and discovered the right rear caliper is not functioning. Service tech said there appears to be a blockage in the brake line, but I find that hard to believe. These guys are not Corvette experts. I'm wondering if my ABS is screwed up, however there is no warning light on the dash display.
Any ideas on how to diagnose and correct this issue?
The master cylinder is new, and I've already replaced the front rotors and pads with slotted and drilled rotors with ceramic pad. I plan to install new rotors and ceramic pads once the hydraulic issue is resolved on the right rear wheel.
When you were bleeding the brakes was any fluid coming out of the right rear caliper?
Also I'd say have someone depress the brake pedal and see if you can see the caliper clamp down on the pad/rotor? there is only a very small bit of movement but you should be able to see it move just a little bit when the brakes are depressed.
When you were bleeding the brakes was any fluid coming out of the right rear caliper?
Also I'd say have someone depress the brake pedal and see if you can see the caliper clamp down on the pad/rotor? there is only a very small bit of movement but you should be able to see it move just a little bit when the brakes are depressed.
let us know what you find.
There was no caliper movement when brake was depressed. Apparently this condition is not new as there was rust on the rotor. No fluid escaped when the line was opened. All of this was discovered when I had the brake fluid flushed out starting left front, right front, left rear, right rear when problem was discovered.
I don't recall seeing any rubber lines, but it they exist where can I purchase the stainless replacements?
Jack
The rubber lines go between the steel lines on the chassis and the caliper on the hub to allow suspension movement. Be happy you did not get the other failure of a locked up caliper that does not release.
You can get stainless lines from many of the vendors that advertise here or the usual online speed shops. This is a part that you get what you pay for and your life rides on these working.
There was no caliper movement when brake was depressed. Apparently this condition is not new as there was rust on the rotor. No fluid escaped when the line was opened. All of this was discovered when I had the brake fluid flushed out starting left front, right front, left rear, right rear when problem was discovered.
Just for future reference when you bleed brakes you should start at the furthest wheel from the master and work to the closest...
As other have suggested start with by replacing the brake hoses they are fairly inexpensive and are probably due to be replaced. They could well be the issue.
The rubber lines go between the steel lines on the chassis and the caliper on the hub to allow suspension movement. Be happy you did not get the other failure of a locked up caliper that does not release.
You can get stainless lines from many of the vendors that advertise here or the usual online speed shops. This is a part that you get what you pay for and your life rides on these working.
Just for future reference when you bleed brakes you should start at the furthest wheel from the master and work to the closest...
As other have suggested start with by replacing the brake hoses they are fairly inexpensive and are probably due to be replaced. They could well be the issue.
Keep in mind that 1986 was the very first year for the ABS system. If the fluid hasn't been changed on a regular basis it could be the ABS system. Not likely but …
btw - Here's the factory manual sequence:In the 1987 FSM page 5-7 says "Bleed the brakes in the following sequence: right front, right rear, left rear, and left front."
Keep in mind that 1986 was the very first year for the ABS system. If the fluid hasn't been changed on a regular basis it could be the ABS system. Not likely but …
btw - Here's the factory manual sequence:In the 1987 FSM page 5-7 says "Bleed the brakes in the following sequence: right front, right rear, left rear, and left front."
Richard Newton
Thanks for the info, Richard. I had always heard beeding was done furthest wheel from the master to closest. However, if that is what the manual says I will use that procedure from now on. -learn something new everyday.
Thanks for the info, Richard. I had always heard beeding was done furthest wheel from the master to closest. However, if that is what the manual says I will use that procedure from now on. -learn something new everyday.
With an ABS system the fluid goes from the master cylinder to the ABS module behind the driver's seat. From there is goes to the various calipers. Because of that arrangement, the right front is the farthest from the master cylinder.
There are two separate brake circuits on the car, front and rear. It doesn't really matter which caliper you bleed first as long as you do the right side before the left side.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Sep 6, 2016 at 02:12 AM.
With an ABS system the fluid goes from the master cylinder to the ABS module behind the driver's seat. From there is goes to the various calipers. Because of that arrangement, the right front is the farthest from the master cylinder.
There are two separate brake circuits on the car, front and rear. It doesn't really matter which caliper you bleed first as long as you do the right side before the left side.
Thanks, Cliff. Your info is clearly counter-intuitive, and it makes sense.
Wood, find a gravel road, and excercise the abs pump. don't do it on a paved road. and when you do do it on a gravel road, don't get too much speed to avoid any rock chips.
excercise the abs pump and see if your brakes change. MINE DID. i have an 87.
Wood, find a gravel road, and excercise the abs pump. don't do it on a paved road. and when you do do it on a gravel road, don't get too much speed to avoid any rock chips.
excercise the abs pump and see if your brakes change. MINE DID. i have an 87.