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Gonna need head work for sure. Advanced induction, Lloyd elliot...There's some others. Cam only realistically will do 330-350 wheel. Some more some less. Heads and cam will do 380-400... more or less.
Could just add some nitrous with the cam to get there if it's a car you drag race.
The hotcam kit is nice as a one stop shop kit but some parts are a little subpar. Ai and le have cams that will out perform the hot cam, but I like the hot cam personally. Going cam only in a lt1 can end up in a game of numbers, 10 to 20hp difference just becomes splitting hairs vs drive ability.
It's currently a daily driver and probably will remain as such.
That's kind of the answer I expected to hear. What kind of power are these things making to the wheel the way they sit stock? 320 or so? I know they were underrated from the factory.
I'd really like to avoid pulling the heads but I understand if that's the way it needs to be done.
Recommend going to the GS registry site and looking at what other LT4 owners have done to make power.
Do you have access to a dyno?
No the LT4 was not under rated so you are started off with around 330hp net. That means you are wanting to add at least 100 to 150 hp to reach your goal of 400hp at the wheels.
400 RWHP on a healthy LT4 isn't a hard, it becomes more involved to cross that 500 hp line. I recommend you go to the GS Reg, and look at what combo's have been used, but more importantly make sure you understand what it is that you want your car to do. There are alot of people that get caught up with WRHP numbers, bragging rights, dyno sheets, however without the entire combination to achieve "a goal" many real world results never get realized and money gets wasted. My goal was simple, I wanted my LT4 to handle a un-modded C6 Z06 without a problem.
Recommend going to the GS registry site and looking at what other LT4 owners have done to make power.
Do you have access to a dyno?
No the LT4 was not under rated so you are started off with around 330hp net. That means you are wanting to add at least 100 to 150 hp to reach your goal of 400hp at the wheels.
I can definitely pay to get to one. There's a place that does dyno days for $30 and they dyno tune as well so that's not a problem.
I'll check out GS Registry and see what kind of information I can dig up.
400 RWHP on a healthy LT4 isn't a hard, it becomes more involved to cross that 500 hp line. I recommend you go to the GS Reg, and look at what combo's have been used, but more importantly make sure you understand what it is that you want your car to do. There are alot of people that get caught up with WRHP numbers, bragging rights, dyno sheets, however without the entire combination to achieve "a goal" many real world results never get realized and money gets wasted. My goal was simple, I wanted my LT4 to handle a un-modded C6 Z06 without a problem.
I achieved my goal
R/Noland
.....god running down a C6 Z06 probably feels nice. My "goal" is a C5 Z06 in a C4 body. Suspension is more objective and I'll handle that at a later date and probably copy a proven setup and call it a day.
I feel like C5's look kind of pedestrian but I get honks and waves and women showing their body parts to me all of the time in my C4. Every time I get in it I get I'm happier with my purchase.
I would look into forced induction, likely turbo for a driver. That would be bolt in, and no parasitic loss when driving normal. Tuning would be the only issue. Once you start tearing into the engine, it becomes a never ending "change this", and the "change that". Retune this, and retune that. Things leak, and need redone....on and on it goes.
Then make that YOUR goal, mine was the C6 and it's no a problem in MY C4 Grand Sport. I don't believe you need to spray or go forced induction to achieve your goal and done right you can drive it anywhere all day long and still get 23 plus MPG. If you want to talk to someone about the mods, shoot rklessdriver a PM and tell him Noland sent you.
Originally Posted by phDiesel
.....god running down a C6 Z06 probably feels nice. My "goal" is a C5 Z06 in a C4 body. Suspension is more objective and I'll handle that at a later date and probably copy a proven setup and call it a day.
I feel like C5's look kind of pedestrian but I get honks and waves and women showing their body parts to me all of the time in my C4. Every time I get in it I get I'm happier with my purchase.
I would look into forced induction, likely turbo for a driver. That would be bolt in, and no parasitic loss when driving normal. Tuning would be the only issue. Once you start tearing into the engine, it becomes a never ending "change this", and the "change that". Retune this, and retune that. Things leak, and need redone....on and on it goes.
JMHO, good luck.
Getting a 2-valve, OHV SBC to 400 rwhp while NA is going to result in significant "infringement" into the drivability. FI would do that and more nicely, w/o the loss in the ability to cruise happily in traffic.
And, from my years of hot-rodding, both SBCs and BBCs, that ONCE you start digging into the motor - especially one with low cid, and especially at that hp level - ya don't want to depend on it as a DD...trust me!
Last edited by Paul Workman; Sep 22, 2016 at 09:48 AM.
I would look into forced induction, likely turbo for a driver. That would be bolt in, and no parasitic loss when driving normal. Tuning would be the only issue. Once you start tearing into the engine, it becomes a never ending "change this", and the "change that". Retune this, and retune that. Things leak, and need redone....on and on it goes.
JMHO, good luck.
It seems like this is the best for long term power and 100hp from a turbo system is modest.
But does that stuff even fit in the engine bay of a C4?
Turbos usually can mounr to the rear of the car, it's the plumbing that will be tricky, and the intercooler location. You would need to find someone who has done this, and get first hand information.
Now, a stroker...383 in particular, would get closer to a NA motor w/ decent drivability w/o infringing on reliability (nearly as much). Lots of info on that route.
And, then there is the LS swap (which makes a lot of sense too, as a viable option). Decisions, decisions...
Last edited by Paul Workman; Sep 22, 2016 at 11:54 AM.
Now, a stroker...383 in particular, would get closer to a NA motor w/ decent drivability w/o infringing on reliability (nearly as much). Lots of info on that route.
And, then there is the LS swap (which makes a lot of sense too, as a viable option). Decisions, decisions...
I've thought about this too seeing as a stroker kit is unbelievably cheap compared to what I'm used to (Mopars).
U said, "400 at the wheels". That goal is far easier and having achieved it, driveability/reliability is far better with a 383. "No replacement for displacement!" (Easier still with LT4 heads and intake manifold. )
U said, "400 at the wheels". That goal is far easier and having achieved it, driveability/reliability is far better with a 383. "No replacement for displacement!" (Easier still with LT4 heads and intake manifold. )