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I turn the key and nothing happens, wait a few minutes and it starts sometimes. I bypassed the VATS system years ago with a plug and play bypass it's never been an issue so I would rule that out. We tested the starter and it is fine. The one thing we did notice is that when you turn the key to the on position there was no power getting to the starter. Car would not start last weekend had it towed to a friends shop where it sat for a couple of days he tugged on the wiring harness behind the battery and it started, not sure if this was the answer but i have it home and started it a few time with no issues yet. Tomorrow I will see if if starts but I was wondering if anyone came across this problem before ?
Do the dash lights and interior lights stay on when you turn the key to the start position or do they dim or go out completely? No
Does the starter relay click when the key is turned to the start position?
No
Have you cleaned the battery posts and tightened the battery connectors?
yes
Has there been any recent work done to the car?
I turn the key and nothing happens, wait a few minutes and it starts sometimes. The one thing we did notice is that when you turn the key to the on position there was no power getting to the starter.
The starter motor requires 12 volts for the start motor which comes from a direct connection from the positive terminal of the Battery.
When you turn the key to Start (Not On/Run) 12 volts from the ignition switch passes thru the Starter Enable relay which is located behind the driver information center and is closed/energized if the key pellet matches what the VATs decoder module is programmed for.
The 12 volts then goes thru the Park Neutral safety switch for an automatic trans or the Clutch Safety switch for a manual trans then to the Starter Solenoid terminal which is a Purple wire.
The Ground for the Start motor is the engine block which is connected by a cable from the engine block to the negative battery terminal.
If you don't measure 12 volts on the Purple wire when the ignition switch is in the Start position you need to find out why there is no 12 volts.
The starter motor requires 12 volts for the start motor which comes from a direct connection from the positive terminal of the Battery.
When you turn the key to Start (Not On/Run) 12 volts from the ignition switch passes thru the Starter Enable relay which is located behind the driver information center and is closed/energized if the key pellet matches what the VATs decoder module is programmed for.
The 12 volts then goes thru the Park Neutral safety switch for an automatic trans or the Clutch Safety switch for a manual trans then to the Starter Solenoid terminal which is a Purple wire.
The Ground for the Start motor is the engine block which is connected by a cable from the engine block to the negative battery terminal.
If you don't measure 12 volts on the Purple wire when the ignition switch is in the Start position you need to find out why there is no 12 volts.
we checked the power going to the solenoid with the key in the on position and it wasn't getting any power to it.
1986
The jump box is like new, I cleaned the area when I last changed the battery last year.
I think these guys are suggesting that you check/clean the terminals, themselves. It's nice to have everything tidy...even "armorall'ed but the metal to metal connection is what is important. So did you actually check the connections?
Hooked On Vettes gave you the path of continuity from Batt/ignition to starter. All you need to do is get out a meter and start testing. Easy.