LED High Stops
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
LED High Stops
My 85's third brake light didn't work. Pulled the cover and it is filled with teenie little 894 halogen bulbs and they are all blown. Those things are over 10 bucks a piece here, and leds are faster anyway, so I tried these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1?ie=UTF8&th=1
They have a G4 pin base so they fit, but they are considerably larger than the halogens. A little dot of silicone helps hold them in place.
Resistors internal, polarity doesn't matter.
There IS room for 2 of these in each fixture, and with the sockets and a little soldering, that would work also.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0882HF2WJDVBTY
I don't have a brightness comparison because it didn't work before.
Frankly, it didn't work afterward either, because as I learned when I found the connector unplugged, the 85 didn't HAVE a third brake light.
But it's there, and I want it, so I guess I'll run a wire up from the brake switch.
They're easy, inexpensive and they work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1?ie=UTF8&th=1
They have a G4 pin base so they fit, but they are considerably larger than the halogens. A little dot of silicone helps hold them in place.
Resistors internal, polarity doesn't matter.
There IS room for 2 of these in each fixture, and with the sockets and a little soldering, that would work also.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0882HF2WJDVBTY
I don't have a brightness comparison because it didn't work before.
Frankly, it didn't work afterward either, because as I learned when I found the connector unplugged, the 85 didn't HAVE a third brake light.
But it's there, and I want it, so I guess I'll run a wire up from the brake switch.
They're easy, inexpensive and they work.
Last edited by confab; Oct 18, 2016 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Because I'm a retard who cannot spell. Now you know my terrible secret!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
Something kind of neat that you could do, and if you felt like running wires (Which I have to do anyway.) is break that high stop into two sides, with two bulbs a piece.. Then pick the wires up where they pass through the hatch area and make it a combined stop/turn signal light.
I didn't pay a lot of attention, but I think it is point to point wiring in there. No board that I saw or anything.
PS: Probably should add some really light, inline fuses under the trim. So if it shorts in the hatch connection, it won't take down your other lights.
I didn't pay a lot of attention, but I think it is point to point wiring in there. No board that I saw or anything.
PS: Probably should add some really light, inline fuses under the trim. So if it shorts in the hatch connection, it won't take down your other lights.
Last edited by confab; Oct 18, 2016 at 11:01 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
I would watch these for excessive heat build up as the specs indicate they were designed for an AC application and not DC. Probably won't be a problem for your application as a third brake light though as the lights wont be on for long periods.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
The headline claimed either (rectifier in there, I guess) and I bought them since they're bright and cheap. Package is a slightly tacky, clear silicone. Maybe the heat is why?
I have a jump box/power supply thing at the shop. I'll run one for an hour or two today and see how bad it is.
I don't wanna give people bad advice or cause any damage.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
The product description does say 12 volt AC/DC but the technical details say 110 Volts. Possibly misprint or typo.
I can't find the actual product listing under the product ID to look at the actual manufacturer's specifications and technical details.
It looks like these are being used in Low Voltage outdoor lighting (again the technical details says "indoor use only") and LV lighting usually uses 12 Volt DC.
Lots of conflicting data.
I can't find the actual product listing under the product ID to look at the actual manufacturer's specifications and technical details.
It looks like these are being used in Low Voltage outdoor lighting (again the technical details says "indoor use only") and LV lighting usually uses 12 Volt DC.
Lots of conflicting data.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,451
Likes: 336
From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
Well.. I have something to report, but it doesn't make a great deal of sense.
After 2 hours, using an IR thermometer, the LED is at 156 degrees and the 194 wheat bulb is at 151.
But I can hold the led with only minor discomfort, and I can't hold the 194 at all?
I don't know if the silicone package is throwing it off, or the light is causing problems with the IR thermometer, but i know I CAN hold the one and not the other.. In spite of the led reading hotter, and in spite of the seemingly tiny difference in temperatures.
????
After 2 hours, using an IR thermometer, the LED is at 156 degrees and the 194 wheat bulb is at 151.
But I can hold the led with only minor discomfort, and I can't hold the 194 at all?
I don't know if the silicone package is throwing it off, or the light is causing problems with the IR thermometer, but i know I CAN hold the one and not the other.. In spite of the led reading hotter, and in spite of the seemingly tiny difference in temperatures.
????
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
The heat discrepancy you have noted is most likely due to the construction differences of each bulb and ability to radiate and dissipate heat efficiently.
The part of the LED bulb I would be most concerned with is around the base as that is where the most amperage should be and most common area for any type of resistance to be applied.
The part of the LED bulb I would be most concerned with is around the base as that is where the most amperage should be and most common area for any type of resistance to be applied.
