I'm going to be drag racing my 87 vette with a built 383,527 hp on an eng. dyno.315/35/17 drag radials and 3.73 gear ratio.My question is ,do I need to install a roll cage? If so,a 4 pt.-6 pt.? Who makes a good bolt in cage.Not going to do anything more than a 6 pt. I don't want or think I need any more than that.Any help would be much appreciated.

 

It's based on how fast you go. 11.49 or faster you need a min. roll bar. Unless you are at an outlaw track at which point they don't care. If it's a street car I'd go run it and see what it ran first. Don't worry most tracks will tell you if you went too fast.

 

I'm more concerned with body and frame flex and or damage resulting from hard launches.How strong are the c4s? I'm expecting to be in the high 11 range.thanks

 

I wouldn't concern myself with that. You'll rip up the IRS before you damage the body. Do you have a 36 or 44?

 

I got an 86 parts car with no eng. with the 4+3 and d44 with a ground effects package and wing for,wait for it $300.yes that's right $300.He didn't know what he had.building the 44 then it's going in the 87,built 700r4 also.

 

damn that's a deal.

 

Don't think you'll hurt the D44 with the constant push from an automatic. Things usually break when you HIT them with the sudden unloading and re-slam of power when shifting a manual. U-Joints and halfshafts would be your weakest points rather than the D44 case, but I've seen them take a lot of power and live.
My C4 is pretty stiff for stock. I can jack up one corner and get three wheels off the ground and still open the door. Did that once to win a bet. Still not as stiff as a newer Vette though. BUT, with the targa top off, it gets pretty floppy.

 

I currently have a glass top on it.I'm going to start looking for a non glass top.Might consider offers on the glass one.It's brand new.Old one cracked and I have glass coverage with 0 deductible.

 

these are the rules for racing test and tune on wild wensdays at the track where they hold the US nationals. hope it helps.

The following are requirements for street legal vehicles:
1. Shorts are NOT PERMITTED when racing and a shirt with sleeves is required to race.
2. Seat belts must be properly mounted.
3. All windows must be present and in good shape and rolled up fully when racing. (no cracks)
4. All automatic transmissions must have operational neutral safety switches.
5. Doors handles operational inside & out.
6. Battery cannot be in driver’s compartment and the battery must have 3/8 bolts to hold it in place.
7. Batteries that are relocated in the trunk must have external cut off switch to the rear of the vehicle labeled "CUT OFF."
8. Radiator must have proper overflow catch tank.
9. Tires must be in good condition.
10. Carburetor must be covered: if there is no hood, live fan must be removed but an electric fan is OK.
11. Carburetor must have two return springs installed.
12. Rear seat must be installed or sheet metal covering or trunk bulkhead must be installed.
13. Convertibles must run with top up and driver MUST have a full face helmet meeting the SNELL, 2005 or newer rating.
14. All vehicles must have at least one working taillight.
15. All hubcaps and trim rings must be removed.
16. All drivers running vehicles 13.99 or quicker MUST have a helmet meeting the SNELL, 2005 or newer rating.
17. Slicks are allowed.
18. NO PASSENGERS ARE PERMITTED!
19. If you run quicker than 9.99 seconds you must have an NHRA license.
20. Unaltered 2008 OEM model-year and newer production cars running slower than 9.99 and 135MPH do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Racing Series except for the following: Convertibles and T-tops must meet Summit Racing Series roll bar and roll cage requirements, all drivers must meet the Summit Racing Series helmet and protective clothing requirements. I race my 86 (stock auto) most wensdays and have little trouble with breakage.