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trying to to raise the engine a bit to swap a cam, the silver shields that wrap around the mounts look exactly like asbestos though so I reaaaaly don't want to touch them (know a few who have died from the stuff!)
is is it really Asbestos or some other fiberglass material?
Which bolts would need to come out for me to raise he engine 1-2 inches for the cam to clear the frame crossmember? Then just jack it up with the jack on the oil pan (with wood to spread load)?
There's maybe arguments as to whether you want to remove the NUT from the stud or the through bolt. I'll leave that alone - I've never done a cam in car in a C4
There's maybe arguments as to whether you want to remove the NUT from the stud or the through bolt. I'll leave that alone - I've never done a cam in car in a C4
I have done cam swap in car; remove nut on bottom of motor mount; use a large piece of wood to spread load as noted; long enough to go rearwards to underneath the bellhousing is best; jack up engine an inch or so, place a small piece of wood an inch thick (maybe less) between the bottom of the mount and the frame where it had sat upon, do this for both mounts, lower and remove jack....enjoy complete access to the bottom of your engine...which you will need for a cam change.
one caveat: when jacking up the engine don't get carried away, as the engine rises, the various fittings at the top rear of the engine block can, and eventually will, contact the firewall.
the cam swap isn't all that difficult; granted you do spend a lot of time on your back underneath the car, but the most labor intensive part is all the time, probably 3X the time doing the actual swap, that you'll spend cleaning the unholy amount of grime and gunk that's accumulated over the years. But that's a good thing.
Unlikely, but still, i would prefer to know it is and rip it out and replace it with something else. That **** is nasty.
It was put there for a reason. I delivered parts for years at differant plants. Many others installed millions of them and built them. Worry more about smashing your hand and getting crap in your eyes.
Hi, Asbestos is not directly dangerous in that form. When it is Friable, it turns to powder when handled it become capable of getting into the air.
Most buildings built prior to the 80s used a large percentage of Asbestos in the Drywall and Plaster on the walls. It was used as a filler and provided Fire Protection. Just don't grind it up and breath the dust.
And definitely do not tear it out,that might make it dangerous.
{Friable:The hazardous friable asbestos is material which can be crumbled, pulverised, or reduced to powder by hand pressure.}
Barrier
Asbestos? first step in asbestos removal is wet everything down; as long as its wet it won't go airborne, which is the only time it creates a hazard. So if I was worried about a heat shield on a twenty something year old car, I'd soak everything down and just pull it out; I've taken mine out and it appeared more of an aluminum foil type of thing, but then not being an industrial hygienist, you never know.
Asbestos related mesothelioma takes twenty to thirty years to manifest itself; but if you can't wait that long for lung cancer, the one single thing that speeds it up is smoking so that's one reason to quit or better yet, don't ever start (don't smoke; do work on your corvette).
It's foil wrapped fiberglass. Easy to remove the old, PIA to install with the engine in the car since the new insulation comes pre-formed and slips over the motor mount, you don't wrap it around it.
If you really think it's asbestos, wear a respirator,
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