sounds better than doing a Bubba. 
Getting Starter Out
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 44
From: Pensacola Florida
Getting Starter Out
Well I got the starter bolts out but the transmission lines and the air pump tube won't allow me to get the starter out. There's a small hose clamp holding the air pump tube to a bracket on the exhaust manifold that's IMPOSSIBLE to get to to remove the tube. I'm starting to think cut and splice it. Any other suggestions? 89 auto
Rick
Rick
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 265
Likes: 5
From: Phoenix AZ
Try cutting the AIR pipe out, leaving some at both ends, then replacing it with a long piece of high heat rubber hose. Clamp it to the pipe where it was cut off. What's nice is it's flexible so you can route it any way you like.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Well I got the starter bolts out but the transmission lines and the air pump tube won't allow me to get the starter out. There's a small hose clamp holding the air pump tube to a bracket on the exhaust manifold that's IMPOSSIBLE to get to to remove the tube. I'm starting to think cut and splice it. Any other suggestions? 89 auto
Rick
Rick
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 44
From: Pensacola Florida
I looked at that and don't see any possible way to pull it out from above. I'm going to try some spreader clamps this morning, see if I can spread them enough to get the damn thing out. Bear paws don't help either
Rick
Rick
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
That tube should move enough to remove the starter. However, that tube is just slightly inserted into the cat so you may have to rebend the tube in case it falls out. I replaced mine with a high torque mini starter from Summit which was so much easier to install and a better starter. If I remember right, it was the hatachi style starter.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
Most mention being able to get the starter past the cooler lines without actually disconnecting them which might actually be suggested in the FSM's etc. - I've never looked.
*** What needs to be considered is what needs to be removed, pushed, twisted or whatever to "hand it off" or maybe actually a drop to the floor is advantageous.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 5, 2016 at 10:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 44
From: Pensacola Florida
Well, after several hours of using every cuss word in the book, and making up a few as well I finally got it out and the new one in. All I had to remove was the knock sensor shield. With a little prying and a lot of finagling it finally came out the bottom. Spent another hour or so cleaning underneath with purple power and brillo. Still not leaking a drop of oil 30K miles after the Lucas Oil stop leak.
Just what does the knock sensor do?
Rick
Just what does the knock sensor do?
Rick
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 702
Likes: 259
From: Middletown Delaware
The knock sensor "hears' pinging or called knocking caused by detonation. This is basically combustion that is occurring at the incorrect time. There can be several reasons for detonation to occur. Anyhow, when the knock sensors detect the pinging the PCM (computer) adjusts the timing of fuel and spark to correct the issue. Detonation can cause internal damage to an engine. That is a very basic explanation of what a knock sensor is used for. - Ozz
Last edited by Ozzstar; Nov 6, 2016 at 04:33 PM.