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LTCC Reliability

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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 06:19 PM
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Default LTCC Reliability

Hey guys, I've just gone through my third opti and I've gotten sick of having to go throughout the process to replace the opti. It's a lot of work. I was looking at other options for a more reliable ignition option. I read on here about the LTCC conversion and I found another conversion made by EFI Connections. As far as LTCC goes, has anyone had/heard a unit fail? What all is required to do the conversion. I know I need to get coils, some kind of mounting bracket, and various connections that need to be made. I was talking to Bob from LTCC and he was telling me that i need to bypass the tach filter, make a connection for 12V power, and EST connection. As of right now, I need to replace the current MSD opti that was good for 1 mile before it gave me a high res fault code. Any input from you guys would be very helpful. I'm currently on break from college and this is going to be the best time for me to work on the car. Also, what are the cost and work comparisons between the LTCC setup and the EFI 24X setup?

Thanks,

Connor

BTW the car is a stock 1992 corvette 6 sp. with a failed MSD opti in it.
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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I too spent a lot of money on an MSD thinking it had to be better than a cheepie. WRONG; it was a turd from the git-go! Replaced it with a $100 AIP unit from THE-Bay and haven't had any problems since.
Sorry, but don't know anything about the LTCC things at all. I figured the new Opti's out there now are a crap shoot anyway so why waste more money than I had to. The AIP's seem to be getting the job done on several cars on the forum.
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 06:40 PM
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I don't have LTCC so I can't give you any data...and few will; a very few people have it, but not many miles accrued to vouch for reliability.

Here's why I don't have it: I can buy a LOT of replacement opti's for the price of one LTCC and associated items to make it work. How long will all those optis I buy last? Longer than ME.

I put a NAPA opti on my '92 in the spring of '12, about 30,000 miles ago. Still going fine.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 04:04 AM
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I've had the LTCC for three years now with no issues. Easy install but I think an H/C swap is easy.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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I've not read anything good about the current MSD offerings. Went with the Petris in my '96, which has a couple thousand miles on it now. And I just got the pulley off the crank on my wifes '95. It's getting an AIP.

It is not an easy job for me, so getting to do it twice is a real bonus. But the toughest part of the swap by far is separating that pulley. Then it's the laundry list of "while you're in there" items.

It probably wouldn't even be on stands for just an Opti swap. I'm counting on the anti-seize to make any do overs less painful.

Besides, as I understand it the LTCC still requires the optical achilles heel, no?

Was your '92 MSD modified with a vent? AIP includes the vent option for the '92-'94 opti. An engineering bandaid for poor engineering.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonnymac
I've had the LTCC for three years now with no issues. Easy install but I think an H/C swap is easy.
Johnnymac, how many miles have you put on the LTCC conversion in three years?

Last edited by twichy2011; Dec 20, 2016 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Renfield
I've not read anything good about the current MSD offerings. Went with the Petris in my '96, which has a couple thousand miles on it now. And I just got the pulley off the crank on my wifes '95. It's getting an AIP.

It is not an easy job for me, so getting to do it twice is a real bonus. But the toughest part of the swap by far is separating that pulley. Then it's the laundry list of "while you're in there" items.

It probably wouldn't even be on stands for just an Opti swap. I'm counting on the anti-seize to make any do overs less painful.

Besides, as I understand it the LTCC still requires the optical achilles heel, no?

Was your '92 MSD modified with a vent? AIP includes the vent option for the '92-'94 opti. An engineering bandaid for poor engineering.


Yeah my MSD unit was vented.

Last edited by twichy2011; Dec 20, 2016 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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I'm just waiting on my new plug wires for my LTCC. The LTCC gets rid of high voltage in the opti cap, you could even remove, or cut down the rotor. Losing high voltage in the opti is a good thing. Also, you will no longer need the ICM and coil with LTCC. I put an AIP opti in my car. Once I installed it, I just wanted to see if the car would start and run nice. It did. So yeah, can't tell you how reliable LTCC has been at the moment.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 10:46 AM
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The EFI 24x will be a bit more money. I didn't do it because: you lose ABS and traction control. To less importance, you also lose AVG and instant MPG.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 09:53 PM
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Just got a full refund of $600 on my MSD unit, now I have decisions to make, still haven't decided whether I want to spend the money on the LTCC conversion or keep taking chances with optisparks...
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by twichy2011
Just got a full refund of $600 on my MSD unit, now I have decisions to make, still haven't decided whether I want to spend the money on the LTCC conversion or keep taking chances with optisparks...
Even with the LTCC, you will still be taking chances with the optisparks.

With that said, I have been running an LTCC for 2 years and 15,000 miles without issue. My water pump seal was leaking and oil was seeping into my opti housing causing some weird things to happen but I cleaned out the opti, resealed it, and all is well again. It removes the high voltage from the Optispark itself, so no more ozone buildup, corrosion, etc... takes a lot of stress of the optical sensor itself and that is a good thing since there really aren't any Mitsubishi sensors left.

Last edited by TorchTarga94; Dec 21, 2016 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
Even with the LTCC, you will still be taking chances with the optisparks.

With that said, I have been running an LTCC for 2 years and 15,000 miles without issue. My water pump seal was leaking and oil was seeping into my opti housing causing some weird things to happen but I cleaned out the opti, resealed it, and all is well again. It removes the high voltage from the Optispark itself, so no more ozone buildup, corrosion, etc... takes a lot of stress of the optical sensor itself and that is a good thing since there really aren't any Mitsubishi sensors left.
Thanks torch for the reply. I actually read a few of you other posts about it last night. As far as the kit from Bob bailey's, are there instructions on how to do the conversion. I understand most is just plug and play with exception of the tach bypass, EST connection, and the coil power. Also, where did you mount your LTCC module?

Connor

Last edited by twichy2011; Dec 21, 2016 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 10:15 AM
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LTCC module box is mounted in the front passenger bumper area where the headlight is. Basically right in front of the coolant reservoir. I installed a rubber flap on top of it to keep any water off of it that may drip through the hood seam right there.

The instructions that come with it will help, but it is basic. If you refer to my thread it is easy to see what wires need soldering and which is plug and play. Not a hard job in my opinion and I am not a wiring master by any stretch.
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 10:22 AM
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If you are in a time crunch to get back to school I would install a quality Opti and piece together the parts for the LTCC and do the install at a later date. Or, do as Tom said and just replace an Opti every time it capoots on you. I have had 3 take a dump on me. If it does it again anytime soon for some reason I am moving on to a C5. Can't blame the C4, it just seems GM has no desire to support this generation anymore. The Petris opti I have been using seems to be a good one though.

Last edited by TorchTarga94; Dec 21, 2016 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
If you are in a time crunch to get back to school I would install a quality Opti and piece together the parts for the LTCC and do the install at a later date. Or, do as Tom said and just replace an Opti every time it capoots on you. I have had 3 take a dump on me. If it does it again anytime soon for some reason I am moving on to a C5. Can't blame the C4, it just seems GM has no desire to support this generation anymore. The Petris opti I have been using seems to be a good one though.
Preciate the response. I have it all pieced out I just have yet to order it. I have to go to school at the 8th at the latest so I have some time. And if I had the money I would got to the c5 as well. Love my c4 but I agree exactly with what you said about GM
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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To install the LTCC you must know how to install an Opti-Spark, to weld, fabricate modifications with your hands, know how to crimp wires, and a tune would be needed.

Above all else to be patient on those connections. My wires came up backwards, and Patrick sent me the coil schematics.

Here are few shots on tools, and other things you'll need.





































































Dont get scared, it is a lot of fun doing those things.

In few weeks, I'll be doing the steering column rebuilt.
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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Pete, as you know I'm doing this. Magnecor wires get here Friday. Hell of a post

Also OP, if you decide to not cut the wires yourself, get them from Magnecor. Taylor slowed me down by a week.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 09:10 PM
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Hey guys, how did y'all mount the LTCC? did y'all use bolts or adhesive? thanks guys
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by twichy2011
Hey guys, how did y'all mount the LTCC? did y'all use bolts or adhesive? thanks guys
I used 3M heavy duty Double sided tape
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
I used 3M heavy duty Double sided tape
Thanks! I was thinking about using some jb superweld on a piece of rubber and sticking that on to the car and either bolting the module to the rubber or use more jb weld to mount the box.

Thanks for all the responses.
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