George45

Just bought another zr1 1990 and only got one ignition key. Spent the entire day trying to find where to get an extra or two. There has got to be a way to do this other than one alternative that was $238. One was a lock smith for $30 or so. I know one or two of you must have found an easy solution.
Thanks,

George

John A. Marker

The keys have a resister chip. It is in the black plastic in the key. You can check the resistance with a multi meter. A good key shop should be able to test your key and make you a new one

ghoastrider1

Here in Indy, Ace hardware does them. You might get lucky and find one that does it in your town.

scuba717

Had the same issue with my 94 w/ only one key. Like John said read the resistance and get your VATS key code. Order some blanks and see your local lock smith. Made my 2 add'l sets for $25. In fact, my locksmith could read the resistance and get the blanks. Not sure it would have been any cheaper. You don't need to spend a lot of $$'s.

WVZR-1

I'm sure you meant ZR-1 1990 ................................

Take your single key to a GM dealer and have them "drop" it in the VATS Interrogator to confirm what you read with the DMM. If they have the correct single-sided blank in stock ask for a substantial discount to help "clear their obsolescence". Single-sided pricing has increased substantially through GM but it's a "do it and if it doesn't work refund or NO PAY until you try". That might work.

You might ask them to do a "key call" for you, be sure to have ID and registration. For a '90 the resistance code won't be available but the mechanical will be I believe. You could then determine if the lock cylinder has ever been changed. Nice to know information. You can confirm both IGN and DOOR codes.

If you decide to go the eBay or on-line options you want a genuine GM blank, Briggs or STRATTEC - no others.

hcbph

Actually you have multiple options here as I see it.
Take your key and either read the chip value with an ohm meter or take it to a GM dealer to have them read the resistor value. They can get a proper key blank and cut it for you. Do check the key when done as I had one made and their key was marked with the wrong value. It turned the ignition but didn't start the car due to the wrong chip on the key.
Take it to a locksmith, they can do the same thing.
If you can't find it at either of these, there is a chart somewhere that lists the key numbers and corresponding ohm range. You can find blanks on places like ebay, get one and take it to a place with a key machine and have them cut it to match your key.
Last I can think of is there is a 'vats' fob that places into the wiring from the switch and uses that to read the chip value from instead of the actual key. Once that's done, you can use a key with any resistor value (or possibly no resistor on it as long as it fits the ignition switch properly) to start the car as the car is not reading anything from the key resistor any more.

Hope that helps.

Renfield

Literally went to the first locksmith I saw. He made extras for me and my wife. $18 for the factory matching key, which made me wince. Works better than the set it came with.

George45

Thank guys. That was the info I found on some of the Internet but some was dated 2010 and beyond. We have a quality locksmith near by, so will pay him a visit. Probably the cheapest project facing me. I now need to replace all the rubber moldings. From what I have seen, that is no quick easy job.

Dancing with joy.

Joe C5 C2

I just got an extra set for my '92 last week. Got the blanks (ignition & door) from "carslocksandkeys" on Ebay. Fast service and good info on their page with all the resistor values and even a vid showing the correct way to read the chip with a vom. Cost was $14.99 shipped and I took them to my local Ace and they were so nice to cut them for free.

auggy

Run, do not walk to find the resistance number on your key. Their are 15 possible numbers. You can get a cheap vom meter from harbor freight that can tell you the resistance number --- then find the number on a chart based on your resistance reading from Corvette Forum or anyplace else. Buy the blank with the correct resistance number off of Ebay or Amazon. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or any place that can cut the blank key from your original key. Make sure they are careful. My 94 uses #15 for example. Should be way less than $50 bucks, depending on what you find from ebay or Amazon.

auggy

Google Vats key for chart. Or try this http://www.vatskey.com/

JWMorrisey

My '86 came with only one set of keys and they were very worn. I ck'd the resistor value and went to the locksmith. He had the interrogator and verified the key value. He also decoded the mechanical key code and cut a new 'working' key to match the mechanical key code; he then cut the proper VATS keys to the new 'working' key. System works like new. He also decoded and cut the door keys and keys for the locking gas cap.


Two complete sets of properly cut keys and the working key for if I need any more VATS keys cut were less than $100.




Jonathan.....

ghlkal

Nice.

How did the locksmith determine the mechanical key code? My dealer claimed they couldn't look up my 90 (I'd like a "fresh" key as mine are pretty worn)

Thanks

Edv92c4

The key blanks can be had on eBay for like 12 to 15 dollars (once you know the ohms reading to determine which blank you need. Funny to see this post as I was just testing my key the other day to order one myself. My 92 has both factory sets and they are perfect...I just want to cut one for fun. I have an interest in the keys so about a year and a half ago I bought a Curtis clipper. This is a hand held machine that will punch the blank out by code so as to produce a reproduction factory original key. I've recently used it to make keys for a few of my other old cars and want to do the vats key for the vette just for fun! George if you lived near me I would punch that key for free!

JWMorrisey

I went to an independent locksmith (Munday Lock in Florence KY).


Briggs & Stratton (now Strattec) supplied a credit card-sized metal plate to dealers and independent bonded locksmiths that was used to measure the depth of each cut on the key. This also takes into account the wear on the key he is measuring.


Once the depth was determined, the locksmith was able to cut the new working key to the original depth for that particular cut.




Hope this helps.
Jonathan.....

ghlkal

Ah, interesting.

Thanks

Edv92c4

They are key decoders...they came with my Curtis clipper. I used them to decode all of my keys because I have the keys but not the codes

dizwiz24

[QUOTE=George45;1593890756]Just bought another zr1 1990 and only got one ignition key. Spent the entire day trying to find where to get an extra or two. There has got to be a way to do this other than one alternative that was $238. One was a lock smith for $30 or so. I know one or two of you must have found an easy solution.
Thanks,

George[/QUOTE

go to dealer. my chevy dealer can still get/copy resistor keys.

i just asked them 3 weeks ago.

they do require 'proof of ownership' though

Edv92c4

Took an ohm reading of my key. Came to 1.867 so I will be ordering a #7 vats key.

WVZR-1

They CAN NOT for most years - mechanical cuts yes but the RESISTANCE VALUE will NOT be delivered to the dealer that does the key call. '95 and newer more likely than probably '94 and older. It's strictly a "hit/miss" but certainly deserves an attempt!!!