Engine build questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 30
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Engine build questions
Hey all this might be the wrong spot for this post but wasn't sure it fit in the performance tab either.
I had some issues with oil pressure and then blew a head gasket so I pulled my block for a full rebuild. Nothing better than setting the mileage back to 0. I am basically looking to build the engine for a NOS setup. I know I will need forged pistons and I would also like to get a set of aluminum heads as well. I'm not looking to go super crazy into performance and this will still end up being my daily driver. I've looked online and there so many aftermarket parts and opinions on this that my head is spinning and I'm honestly not sure what the best parts for the setup I'm wanting to build would be.
Anyone have any thoughts on the best way to go about a light 75-100 shot of NOS with the upgrades I'm looking to get? I've got about 2.4k to spend on the project right now. It's an 85 with the original L98 block. The engine has been rebuilt once previously and it has an upgraded cam and other head work but that will likely be replaced since I'm looking into new heads anyways.
I had some issues with oil pressure and then blew a head gasket so I pulled my block for a full rebuild. Nothing better than setting the mileage back to 0. I am basically looking to build the engine for a NOS setup. I know I will need forged pistons and I would also like to get a set of aluminum heads as well. I'm not looking to go super crazy into performance and this will still end up being my daily driver. I've looked online and there so many aftermarket parts and opinions on this that my head is spinning and I'm honestly not sure what the best parts for the setup I'm wanting to build would be.
Anyone have any thoughts on the best way to go about a light 75-100 shot of NOS with the upgrades I'm looking to get? I've got about 2.4k to spend on the project right now. It's an 85 with the original L98 block. The engine has been rebuilt once previously and it has an upgraded cam and other head work but that will likely be replaced since I'm looking into new heads anyways.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Not really looking for headers as it's already got a full exhaust setup from the last rebuild. Would I really need to replace the crank if its not showing signs of ware? I'm really just looking to get a set of forged piston's, aluminum heads and a matching cam if possible. I've got the engine over at my buddies shop so I will be doing the build myself. I was more curious of brands and setups that people may be running with good success. Does anyone have any advice on good brands for the parts I'm looking for? Again I'm going to be running a low (75-100) shot of nos sometime in the future, not looking to get the spray kit yet just need to get the engine back into the car but want to plan for the future since it's out of the car now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
$2400 is do-able for an engine rebuild but its not a lot of money either, so you have to be realistic.
I would say for that budget forget the NOS. Take the engine apart and inspect it if nothings broken take the block and engine down to a reputable machine shop, have them check it out. If the block, rotating assembally and heads are ok juts do the necessary machining and re-use the stock internals, add ARP bolts on the whole engine, new oil pump, dual roller timing chain, mild cam with matching springs, get either new S/S valves or just a good 3 angle valve job, also add new length pushrods and then just put it back together. btw, you will of course need to do the necssary work to freshen up the heads too. While the engine's out if its a manual check the condition of the clutch and flywheel, if its an auto you could also add a little higher stall converter.
This engine will make a little more power with the new cam and should fit in your budget. If it turns out that the rotating assembally In your engine is damaged or the block or heads are cracked then you will have to look at other options and likley increase your budget.
I would say for that budget forget the NOS. Take the engine apart and inspect it if nothings broken take the block and engine down to a reputable machine shop, have them check it out. If the block, rotating assembally and heads are ok juts do the necessary machining and re-use the stock internals, add ARP bolts on the whole engine, new oil pump, dual roller timing chain, mild cam with matching springs, get either new S/S valves or just a good 3 angle valve job, also add new length pushrods and then just put it back together. btw, you will of course need to do the necssary work to freshen up the heads too. While the engine's out if its a manual check the condition of the clutch and flywheel, if its an auto you could also add a little higher stall converter.
This engine will make a little more power with the new cam and should fit in your budget. If it turns out that the rotating assembally In your engine is damaged or the block or heads are cracked then you will have to look at other options and likley increase your budget.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the advice and tips. I think I will just continue to wade through the mass amount of aftermarket parts and find what I'm looking for (possibly used). I'm fairly set on doing a NOS setup.
2.4k is just what I have set aside right now to get the ball rolling. If I end up needing more for this I can wait it out. I've got a spare car that I use as my daily right now and would rather just do the build I actually want to before sticking the engine back in the bay (bit of a pain in the *** to pull the block and not do what I want to). I was more or less just looking for brands that people have used and have had good success with.
2.4k is just what I have set aside right now to get the ball rolling. If I end up needing more for this I can wait it out. I've got a spare car that I use as my daily right now and would rather just do the build I actually want to before sticking the engine back in the bay (bit of a pain in the *** to pull the block and not do what I want to). I was more or less just looking for brands that people have used and have had good success with.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
Well if you are willing to spend more then you can certainly build a nice engine that meets all your goals. 3.5-4k is probably more realistic IMHO for a decent engine build. It sounds like a lot of money but in addition to big ticket items like pistons and machining etc... all the little stuff like bolts, hoses, gaskets and all the while the engine's out might as well stuff... really adds up.
Best of luck with it.
Best of luck with it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Suggest a look @ Speedmaster rods, H beam, bushed for floating pins, 7/16 rod bolts, weight matched.
Checked sizes on a pin fit machine = all good. Put them in my 355 build last week.
Less than 3 bills from Speedway Motors + free shipping.
jpg.gif 1-17-6.JPG (129.8 KB)
Checked sizes on a pin fit machine = all good. Put them in my 355 build last week.
Less than 3 bills from Speedway Motors + free shipping.
jpg.gif 1-17-6.JPG (129.8 KB)
